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Concrete Racing Quad – Hyperlite 2207.5 E motors – Budget Build for cheap drone racing fun

Well, the Houston crew has what they’re, for, as the night spot, an industrial park across town, which they have an arrangement where they can set up a track, lie a few packs and have some fun.

Now. I have not in years past, made it out to the night track because it’s a little dangerous for your quads right, but I haven’t found myself with the time to get out and get some packs on the weekends. So I needed to get some packs. So I didn’t want to fly. One of my normal race builds there. So what greater opportunity to make a quad that was as low-budget as possible, test out a few components test out some 3d printing and go out to the night spot, and that’s why I set up for this project to make the concrete quad.

I also wanted to be able to get a lot of these parts during the Black Friday sales and the total Black Friday price. If you’ve got all these parts, for you know, let’s say 12 % off, I think was the average sale. This comes out to about a hundred and seventeen hundred and seventy five bucks for this entire racing quad. So I’m going to go through the components in a second on the article, but first I want to show a quick sneak peek of the articles that the Houston crew would constantly put out all last year trying to get everybody to come out and race at the Night spot, if this was the one that sealed the deal for me guys.

Okay, so I mean we had the nice baton here we do and fun. I mean everybody always complaining about the trees, the rivers, the waters and everything it’s concrete. So what I break more on grass, you need to come out here more. Let’S have fun, let’s practice together on the concrete, so, as you can see after that, I just had to get this built up we’ll go through the build, but spoiler. This bang held up better than I could have ever imagined.

So here’s the concrete quad guys and the goal of this again was be to be able to have a cheap, build with easily replaceable parts, and that means parts for the quad itself, as well as parts on the quad such as these motors. That’S why I am going for these hyper light emitters. E stands for everyone can afford these, not eco, like some of the other ones out there, and these e-series motors are beautiful indeed, and you can see that to differentiate that from the primary hyper light line, they have reversed the color scheme, having the brilliant type of Light orange, which matches the middle mid plate on the floss three quite well on the top and hyper light blue on the bottom.

A couple of other things that I have done to get this ready for concrete. Is I printed out these feet? I have the ones for the back here still that I still need to put on, and I printed out a spare for myself. They will go on there. In addition to that, I have added a nice juicy capacitor at the back. This is Panasonic’s best capacitor that I like to use for all my bills: blue, it’s the one thousand thirty-five capacitor on there.

I also printed out this camera holder. I wanted a beefier one, I’m using the run cam nano 2 in there just to keep the costs down. This print didn’t come out super great and that’s more due to my printing skills, but it’s pretty strong and I like that. It leaves you a little bit of extra room in there and it is a fixed camera mount so since this is going to be taking, some hard hits potentially wanted to keep that beefed up.

This is the stock. This is the stock antenna holder at the rear. End, I’m using a very inexpensive real ACC stubby youxi eyes Anton, and I don’t expect that to perform, as well as the luminaire AXI of course. But since I’m racing this on concrete, very close proximity, I’m going to go ahead and try out this cheap $ 6 and tenant’s super cheap. In addition to that, let’s go to the rest of the build I’m using the eraser star anniversary $ 25 on sale $ 30 at full price esc.

That has been tried and true and some of my most longest-running builds. I’M learning that ESC. So I’m doing that for this one to keep the costs down, this is the rev. It’S the mellow Reister star, mellow ESC, that I kind of showed on the blog want to go ahead and get that up in the build and the notable thing about this is because I will likely be trying for point one right now. It’S on 4.0 on this flight controller.

This has the built-in speedy B, so you can to very easily in the field as well as switch some of those settings and, of course, using the X and plus receiver on top and an akk race, article transmitter, whether it’s a article. So that means that this bill comes out exceptionally cheap. Let’S just go over the cost frame $ 45 motors $ 56 camera 18 dollars, the ESC $ 24. The flight controller 28 dollars article under $ 10, the receiver $ 12, the antenna $ 6, the props $ 3 for a grand total of 203 dollars for this entire build, including the props.

Now, as I go out to the concrete’s spot the night spots, I’m going to also be bringing this battery protector that I generally use all the time, but I’m especially going to be using it on concrete. It does add a good 12 or 14 grams. So your overall build weight, but that is totally fine with me. If I can keep my batteries just a little bit safer, you can see this one has seen some action. It’S going to see some more action tomorrow night.

The other thing you may notice is, I don’t, have a turtle mode solution, yet I did print this fin. I had a little bit of a hard time getting it to fit on there. So now I have to decide. Do I want to try to squeeze on there or print another option? I have basically one shot until tomorrow, so I’ll figure out what I’m going to do there or do I just live without Turtle mode for a day. In addition, since it is going to be some potentially banging around, I’m going to be bringing a couple of spare arms just in case.

I need to swap any of these also going to be bringing any spare top plates and just see how things goes. I’M going to be bringing several of the quads as backups. This isn’t a competitive race, so I’m not going to be going with the intention of pushing it extremely hard, but anytime you’re on concrete. You want to be able to recover from that quickly. So quite pleased with how this build came out, I really took my time to kind of show some of those nice build skills.

I used casters 6337 solder throughout this build, as well as Mike Hester’s flux, pin to make sure that all my solder joints were nice and shiny, and it came out quite good really like this floss three. If I had to do it all over again, do I use the floss tree light? I do have one of those coming up on all of that stuff very soon so stay tuned for that now, let’s go out to the field to see how did this thing hold us? Fine, I hit that.

I hit that tree. That was going. I was a good one. Alright, so here is the after footage of the concrete quad after two visits to the night spot and as you can see, it really doesn’t look that different staying no damage. I did a couple of car crashes upside down like that, and all that I did was just kind of scratch up this motor, not right here. If you can see that, but everything else I didn’t even lose, I didn’t even lose.

One of these into holder thing is these Hyperlight été motors, I almost said eco they’re, not eco, cirqueo reminded me. These are E for Everyone, because everyone can afford these beautiful motors and the only thing that I broke during that entire session. I actually have been out there twice. This is, after the second time, I’m going to show some footage at the end, so you can see the wreckage.

These are protectors, performed and did their job beautifully. The arms still look new. I didn’t even break an arm. This fan did crumple, but my printer is not a hundred percent doll then, but that’s like what I can replace this 426, so no problem at all there. I basically ran the same set of props almost for the entire both sessions each sessions were going really hard. We were just going pax pax pax pax pax.

I probably flew across both sessions – 35 pax – maybe between the two nights. I did take a couple of spills, but there was no damage had a very little slight scratch at the top of one of these prop nuts. But just amazing, so if you want to race over anywhere, that is pre curious. This is a beautiful recipe to use all have links to in the description below for everything that I used, and this is kicking off a new series for me, where we’re going to do budget builds and the concrete quad is a perfect example of this.

You don’t have to break the bank in order to race or freestyle everything today, especially with the new version, as a beta flight can fly exceptionally well and feel exceptionally well. I didn’t even bother to do very much tuning on this and you’ll probably see that the tube wasn’t that good. But I didn’t care I wanted to just get out there get on the track, compete with my buddies and see who ended up faster and a lot of these guys that hang out at the knight spa all travelled to Temple Texas to participate in one of those Big races and we were able to set up some elements from that track prior to and it helped Houston to take.

I believe, first place third place and first place in the sportsman class, so way to go guys on that. What are you going to be racing for the 2020 season? I am still going through. Several options got the new 533 switchback. I got the catalyst machine works raging groaner. I got the Mayday designed fusion frame that I still have in the mix, so many great options. So many affordable option is so many durable and amazing components.

What a time to fly fpv guys. Can you believe that you can get three Racing quads built up for a full race season for the price that it would have cost you to get one in a couple of batteries a few years ago? It’S amazing how much better everything is, how much cheaper is getting every day if you are wanting to know more about how to build a quad check out my other articles for the beginner series, and if you want to be able to stay in tune to get These type of sales build a cheap quad of your own join FPV, sells alerts group where I am able to help everyone by all the partnerships that I have yes, a lot of those are affiliate links that helps the blog helps me get new things in for Review, but it also helps me in order to get larger and larger discount codes, especially for that group and the codes are not just from banggood guys I have saw.

I also have six partners across the United States and North America, including Canada. So if you’re, a part of that group, you are likely to save and if I’m not working with your favorite shop and they have a great show going on, feel free to go in there and post it. Let us all know I want to get the cheapest parts that I can keep flying and stay in the air too. So thanks guys and [ Laughter, ]


 

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Build your own Drone Frame

That’S right! How do you design manufacture, send off and get your frames so that you can hold it in your hand? Now, on this blog, I don’t always have the ability to do all the things that are very cool in this hobby, like design your own frame design, your own canopy design, your own accessories, like this axial holder, that I just printed.

So this was actually all done by Miguel senior member of the FPV community. Here in Houston. He goes by the pilot named El profie, and so he is actually one of the ones that I’ve learned quite a bit from in this hobby, he’s been in a few years longer than my three years or so, and so he’s always happy to help people tune To help people fly to help new people to set up races do time trials to sit. There read you fly through his goggles analyze your techniques and give you tips, and so it’s all about that ability to pay it forward.

And so when we get to the edge of my knowledge and my skill set, that’s what I’m going out to the community to find out from people who know better how to do it. So I’m going to show some of the pictures of the design along the way. This is a sandwich stop frame and it takes inspiration from a few of the existing frames on the market today that you may spot two or three of those things that he drew.

Inspiration from had a little bit of help from our friend made a in town, getting the final touches on this very cool house like a little mini. Mohawk fan right there and definitely now so one of the things that he told me he did when he was designing this frame was he wanted the ability to run? You know full-size stacks he’s done by 20 bytes. I think this is actually the second or third frame he’s designed in town from the ground up.

It’S using for press press nuts in the center right here to hold the arms in place and I’ll show some pictures of the diagrams of how those arms actually fit together. The arms are quiet long. They go all the way into the center and meet in the middle right here so that they can stay very rigid. This is a very rigid carbon fiber. It’S five mils. I think he’s actually going to make a revision to this and he said he’s going to bring it down to four and a half mil.

You can see that the standoff with is staggered. It’S slightly thinner in the front, then it is in the back. That’S an interesting design decision right. There has some gummies built into this layer that your stocks going to attach to he likes to use these very thick dog bone style, standoffs which I can tell just by handling them, are much stronger than the other ones, and I’ve been test printing, this AXI holder, Which is going to fit on these rear standoffs just like this and will hold the AXI antenna in there like that, and so you can see.

I still haven’t even cleaned up this print, but it’s cool like so definitely always make friends with the people in your fpv community because they can help you tune. They can help. You learn how to fly. They can help you, you know, even if you have the skills to do something like this, which I don’t have. I haven’t have a 3d printer, so he can give me some of those designs. I can test print them from him now.

One of the things that I don’t advise you to try to do unless you’re very experienced is to print a nylon canopy. So we have this printed by one of the top. You know canopy printers, there’s two major ones in the hobby that always going to want to go to there’s a Phoenix resolutions Chris Griffin over there and then there’s also brain 3d solutions. So those are the two big ones that I would suggest that you go with.

For if you need to get something printed in nylon, printing nylon is not as easy as putting PLA or TPU like this is at your house, and so you have to be careful to get it just right. So let the experts do it. It’S worth paying. The fifteen or twenty dollars, so the nice thing about when you have these frames cut, you can get them cut from CNC madness, which is a place up in Canada. A lot of the frame designers here, stateside use them.

They ship fairly fast there. They do good work. This is cut very nice and very smooth and very well. You can design decide on the type of carbon that you want. The layer thickness, there’s a lot of variety of options that you can choose from when you send it off now. One of my first questions to him after I saw this frame, which you know I thought it was awesome, was what’s the cost you know, and the cost ends up being about 60 to 70 dollars.

So you don’t really save a ton. Maybe if he started to you know generate a ton of these, but he didn’t do this for resale he just likes to be able to have full control over every aspect of his quads. Miguel is known for extremely clean builds, so, if you’ve enjoyed the builds on, my blog i’d have taken a lot of advice from him over the years on build techniques. I’M always reading what he’s doing and, of course, he’s always able to advise in the field when he sees that you show up for the first few times with junky cold solder joints, which is a no-no, so yeah, very, very cool, awesome job on this Miguel.

I’Ve seen it in action, it flies quite well, and you know I personally like to just buy my frame off the shelf and go, but I think it’s an awesome skill to learn. Fusion 3d learn how to do all these drawings, but I I’m pretty familiar with editing software, which I know isn’t the easiest to use. You know photo and really more article editing software. So maybe I can learn this too and start designing some of my own parts.

So awesome job very cool. If you ever wondered, you know how long it takes Miguel said it didn’t take too long for him to learn how to do fusion 3d. I really like that he’s left a dedicated spot in there for the battery strap to go. That’S handy he’s left a little spot at the back so that you can zip tie your power leads and keep them secure. Most of us are running three screws on our frame, so he’s went ahead and eliminated that fourth screw hole to add a little bit of extra protection and save a little bit of weight and material, and he added a couple of little holes at the front to Secure wires or other things like that, this actually holder is actually a dual purpose that he designed there’s room for a capacitor back here too, so his builds are really cool.

I’Ll! Try to get you a picture of one of these. One of these completed builds. Look like so that you guys can see it. So what you guys think leave a comment down below if you’ve ever thought about designing your own frame where any fpv parts, what’s your favorite part of doing builds? Is it assembling the frame soldering all up, and if you know how to use any of the software and have some cool files, do you upload them the finger versus? Do you want to sell them? Do just want to make it so that you have something unique when you go out to the field, this frame doesn’t have a name so post in the comments.

What you think the name should be. I don’t think you’re going to be able to get your hands on one because he’s really just making these for himself, but who knows? Maybe we bug him enough thanks guys,