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Concrete Racing Quad – Hyperlite 2207.5 E motors – Budget Build for cheap drone racing fun

Well, the Houston crew has what they’re, for, as the night spot, an industrial park across town, which they have an arrangement where they can set up a track, lie a few packs and have some fun.

Now. I have not in years past, made it out to the night track because it’s a little dangerous for your quads right, but I haven’t found myself with the time to get out and get some packs on the weekends. So I needed to get some packs. So I didn’t want to fly. One of my normal race builds there. So what greater opportunity to make a quad that was as low-budget as possible, test out a few components test out some 3d printing and go out to the night spot, and that’s why I set up for this project to make the concrete quad.

I also wanted to be able to get a lot of these parts during the Black Friday sales and the total Black Friday price. If you’ve got all these parts, for you know, let’s say 12 % off, I think was the average sale. This comes out to about a hundred and seventeen hundred and seventy five bucks for this entire racing quad. So I’m going to go through the components in a second on the article, but first I want to show a quick sneak peek of the articles that the Houston crew would constantly put out all last year trying to get everybody to come out and race at the Night spot, if this was the one that sealed the deal for me guys.

Okay, so I mean we had the nice baton here we do and fun. I mean everybody always complaining about the trees, the rivers, the waters and everything it’s concrete. So what I break more on grass, you need to come out here more. Let’S have fun, let’s practice together on the concrete, so, as you can see after that, I just had to get this built up we’ll go through the build, but spoiler. This bang held up better than I could have ever imagined.

So here’s the concrete quad guys and the goal of this again was be to be able to have a cheap, build with easily replaceable parts, and that means parts for the quad itself, as well as parts on the quad such as these motors. That’S why I am going for these hyper light emitters. E stands for everyone can afford these, not eco, like some of the other ones out there, and these e-series motors are beautiful indeed, and you can see that to differentiate that from the primary hyper light line, they have reversed the color scheme, having the brilliant type of Light orange, which matches the middle mid plate on the floss three quite well on the top and hyper light blue on the bottom.

A couple of other things that I have done to get this ready for concrete. Is I printed out these feet? I have the ones for the back here still that I still need to put on, and I printed out a spare for myself. They will go on there. In addition to that, I have added a nice juicy capacitor at the back. This is Panasonic’s best capacitor that I like to use for all my bills: blue, it’s the one thousand thirty-five capacitor on there.

I also printed out this camera holder. I wanted a beefier one, I’m using the run cam nano 2 in there just to keep the costs down. This print didn’t come out super great and that’s more due to my printing skills, but it’s pretty strong and I like that. It leaves you a little bit of extra room in there and it is a fixed camera mount so since this is going to be taking, some hard hits potentially wanted to keep that beefed up.

This is the stock. This is the stock antenna holder at the rear. End, I’m using a very inexpensive real ACC stubby youxi eyes Anton, and I don’t expect that to perform, as well as the luminaire AXI of course. But since I’m racing this on concrete, very close proximity, I’m going to go ahead and try out this cheap $ 6 and tenant’s super cheap. In addition to that, let’s go to the rest of the build I’m using the eraser star anniversary $ 25 on sale $ 30 at full price esc.

That has been tried and true and some of my most longest-running builds. I’M learning that ESC. So I’m doing that for this one to keep the costs down, this is the rev. It’S the mellow Reister star, mellow ESC, that I kind of showed on the blog want to go ahead and get that up in the build and the notable thing about this is because I will likely be trying for point one right now. It’S on 4.0 on this flight controller.

This has the built-in speedy B, so you can to very easily in the field as well as switch some of those settings and, of course, using the X and plus receiver on top and an akk race, article transmitter, whether it’s a article. So that means that this bill comes out exceptionally cheap. Let’S just go over the cost frame $ 45 motors $ 56 camera 18 dollars, the ESC $ 24. The flight controller 28 dollars article under $ 10, the receiver $ 12, the antenna $ 6, the props $ 3 for a grand total of 203 dollars for this entire build, including the props.

Now, as I go out to the concrete’s spot the night spots, I’m going to also be bringing this battery protector that I generally use all the time, but I’m especially going to be using it on concrete. It does add a good 12 or 14 grams. So your overall build weight, but that is totally fine with me. If I can keep my batteries just a little bit safer, you can see this one has seen some action. It’S going to see some more action tomorrow night.

The other thing you may notice is, I don’t, have a turtle mode solution, yet I did print this fin. I had a little bit of a hard time getting it to fit on there. So now I have to decide. Do I want to try to squeeze on there or print another option? I have basically one shot until tomorrow, so I’ll figure out what I’m going to do there or do I just live without Turtle mode for a day. In addition, since it is going to be some potentially banging around, I’m going to be bringing a couple of spare arms just in case.

I need to swap any of these also going to be bringing any spare top plates and just see how things goes. I’M going to be bringing several of the quads as backups. This isn’t a competitive race, so I’m not going to be going with the intention of pushing it extremely hard, but anytime you’re on concrete. You want to be able to recover from that quickly. So quite pleased with how this build came out, I really took my time to kind of show some of those nice build skills.

I used casters 6337 solder throughout this build, as well as Mike Hester’s flux, pin to make sure that all my solder joints were nice and shiny, and it came out quite good really like this floss three. If I had to do it all over again, do I use the floss tree light? I do have one of those coming up on all of that stuff very soon so stay tuned for that now, let’s go out to the field to see how did this thing hold us? Fine, I hit that.

I hit that tree. That was going. I was a good one. Alright, so here is the after footage of the concrete quad after two visits to the night spot and as you can see, it really doesn’t look that different staying no damage. I did a couple of car crashes upside down like that, and all that I did was just kind of scratch up this motor, not right here. If you can see that, but everything else I didn’t even lose, I didn’t even lose.

One of these into holder thing is these Hyperlight été motors, I almost said eco they’re, not eco, cirqueo reminded me. These are E for Everyone, because everyone can afford these beautiful motors and the only thing that I broke during that entire session. I actually have been out there twice. This is, after the second time, I’m going to show some footage at the end, so you can see the wreckage.

These are protectors, performed and did their job beautifully. The arms still look new. I didn’t even break an arm. This fan did crumple, but my printer is not a hundred percent doll then, but that’s like what I can replace this 426, so no problem at all there. I basically ran the same set of props almost for the entire both sessions each sessions were going really hard. We were just going pax pax pax pax pax.

I probably flew across both sessions – 35 pax – maybe between the two nights. I did take a couple of spills, but there was no damage had a very little slight scratch at the top of one of these prop nuts. But just amazing, so if you want to race over anywhere, that is pre curious. This is a beautiful recipe to use all have links to in the description below for everything that I used, and this is kicking off a new series for me, where we’re going to do budget builds and the concrete quad is a perfect example of this.

You don’t have to break the bank in order to race or freestyle everything today, especially with the new version, as a beta flight can fly exceptionally well and feel exceptionally well. I didn’t even bother to do very much tuning on this and you’ll probably see that the tube wasn’t that good. But I didn’t care I wanted to just get out there get on the track, compete with my buddies and see who ended up faster and a lot of these guys that hang out at the knight spa all travelled to Temple Texas to participate in one of those Big races and we were able to set up some elements from that track prior to and it helped Houston to take.

I believe, first place third place and first place in the sportsman class, so way to go guys on that. What are you going to be racing for the 2020 season? I am still going through. Several options got the new 533 switchback. I got the catalyst machine works raging groaner. I got the Mayday designed fusion frame that I still have in the mix, so many great options. So many affordable option is so many durable and amazing components.

What a time to fly fpv guys. Can you believe that you can get three Racing quads built up for a full race season for the price that it would have cost you to get one in a couple of batteries a few years ago? It’S amazing how much better everything is, how much cheaper is getting every day if you are wanting to know more about how to build a quad check out my other articles for the beginner series, and if you want to be able to stay in tune to get These type of sales build a cheap quad of your own join FPV, sells alerts group where I am able to help everyone by all the partnerships that I have yes, a lot of those are affiliate links that helps the blog helps me get new things in for Review, but it also helps me in order to get larger and larger discount codes, especially for that group and the codes are not just from banggood guys I have saw.

I also have six partners across the United States and North America, including Canada. So if you’re, a part of that group, you are likely to save and if I’m not working with your favorite shop and they have a great show going on, feel free to go in there and post it. Let us all know I want to get the cheapest parts that I can keep flying and stay in the air too. So thanks guys and [ Laughter, ]


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Choosing ESCs for FPV

The input voltage capability, the different protocols that are available with that ESC and the size and dimensions of it. Whether or not it’s an individual ESC like these or if it’s a foreign one like these and then the different processors that can come in a ESC. So, first up for current rating, you need to make sure that the ESC that you pick is going to be able to handle the current that you’re going to pull through it.

It’S not an exact science that, like down to an a specific number, there’s, usually a range that will work, but typically the the higher you go, the kind of more Headroom you have and the more you can feel safe that you’re not going to blow that es Es e up because you’re pulling too much power through it. A common misconception that some beginners think about the current rating on es es is that if, if it’s rated for higher it’s going to make more power, but that’s not how it works, it’s not higher.

The number more power it makes it’s the more that it can handle to flow through it, so just realize that you’re not going to get more power out of going with a higher rated ESC. You it just is possible to push more power through it and without it burning up on you. Next we have input voltage. This is going to be really important because you want to make sure that whatever battery you’re going to use is going to work with the speed controller.

This is going to be listed on every product listing for every speed. Controller they’ll usually be a range it’ll say like 2 to 3 s 4 to 6 s, so just make sure that the ESC that you’re picking is going to work with the battery that you’re going to use or make sure that you’re picking a battery. That’S going to work with the sees that you have, then you have the dimensions or the size and the weight.

This is not as critical, because I mean they’re. Typically, es es are not too far from each other, but in certain situations, maybe you’re trying to be as lightweight as possible. So you want to make sure you have the smallest ESC as possible. These are all ones. I’Ve used on very similar setup so obviously that one’s quite a bit bigger than this one. So by using these, I’m saving some weight and different frames are going to have different widths of the arm.

So it may just bug you if the ESC is wider than the arm. It’S not a huge deal either way, but just something to look at is the dimensions and the weight. The next one is where it starts to get a little technical, a little tricky and I’m not going to go too deep into it and overwhelm the beginners, but this is the different protocols that the ESC is capable of handling. So how do I explain this? Simply? The protocol is essentially the way that the ESC and the flight controller are communicating with each other.

So it’s basically the signal flow, that’s happening between the two and there’s different methods and different speeds at which these can run. So when I say speed, what I mean is the way that the ESC and the flight controller are working. Is it works in a cycle, so it’s kind of looking at? Where is the drone or what’s the status that’s going on? What Corrections need to be made? Do I need to speed up these motors or slow these motors down and then it gives that correction and then it repeats over again.

So when you have a faster protocol when paired up with a fast enough processor on the flight controller, this is what’s going to make a huge difference in the way that the drone flies when it can very quickly make these little micro adjustments and do it without Adding too much signal noise or being harsh on the system, this is what’s going to give you a really smooth flying drone. The two main protocols you’re going to find our one shot and D shot, there’s a little bit more to it.

There it’s actually one shot. 125 and then in the D shot realm, you’ve got D, shot, 150 D, shot 300, 600 and 1,200. Essentially, the different numbers mean it’s a shorter pulse-width and essentially a faster refresh rate. At one point, one shot was like the bee’s knees. This was a big advance in the way that the protocols are communicating with the flight controller. But at this point it’s a bit outdated, pretty much any current ASC you’re going to want to use D shot.

So what de Chatillon call a big advantage to having a digital protocol is there’s more commands that you can send from the flight controller to the speed controller. So the two huge things that I use and a lot of pilots are going to take advantage of. Is one is, you can use your actual ESC to send a signal to the motor to be a beeper? So when you plug in your drone – and you hear those beeps – that’s actually the ESC, sending signals to the motor and the motors what’s actually making those tones and with D shot away you can take advantage of that is the motor can become your loss model beeper.

So when you crash and you’re not sure where you went down, you don’t know where the drone is having D shot, enables you to flick a switch on the radio and the ESC will make that motor make a beeping sound. So it makes it easier to find another big one that comes in really handy is turtle mode. So what turtle mode is? If you crash upside down using D shots communication abilities, you can tell the ESC.

I want you to take two of those motors and reverse the direction, so when you give it an input, they’re going to spin backwards and you can actually flip the drone over aside from it flies better. Those two features alone would be enough that I would definitely recommend you may as well just go for disha the difference in price between older one shot and the cheap, Disha ESC is very negligible. So at this point I would at least get something that has disha aside from that.

The next sort of advancement that came along with ESC s is having a 32-bit processor on them. So the pretty much best of the best you’re going to find right now is a D shot 1200 with a 32-bit processor. Having that 32 processor is just going to open up more features that a ESC is going to be capable of doing so now with the 32-bit, you can pull in telemetry information from your ESC, so you can know exactly how much current that each one’s pulling you Can know the RPM of the motor, you can also add and modify the tones that it’s going to play when it starts up, which is you know, some people have a lot of fun with that.

It’S not a huge deal, and it’s also just going to be more future-proof. More features that come down the pipeline are probably going to be created for the latest tech that we have and then the last main spec that you’ll see is whether or not the ESC you’re looking at is an individual or a four and one, and then in The four and ones you’re going to have different sizes, so this is a 30 by 30. They also make them in twenty by twenty, and I think also sixteen by sixteen so depending on which size of drone you’re intending to build that’s going to play into which size ESC you need.

You would probably want to go with the smallest one available, but you also need to make sure that it can handle the current and the input voltage of what you’re trying to build around now for some considerations when you’re picking an ESC, the first one would be Whether or not you’re going to go for a 401 or individual ESC, they both have their pros and cons. I kind of already went over this when I did the gear overview article, but we’ll do it again here, four and one.

Obviously it’s less parts to bahi. Only need one you don’t need to buy four of them. It’S going to be a little bit more compact, a little bit less weight because there’s a lot less wires. Speaking of the wires there’s a lot less wires to solder to because on an individual ESC, you’ve got four wires coming off the top and you’re going to solder three to the bottom and you’re going to do that four times, whereas with a foreign one there’s just Going to be the three motor wires need to attach for each motor and then the rest of the wiring is just going to be in a wiring harness that usually will just plug right into your flight controller.

So a little bit easier to build over here, but the upside of a individual ESC is, if you have a problem with an ESC, you only need to replace the one. That’S gone bad, whereas with a foreign one. If you have any issues, you’re replacing the whole thing, so in some cases it can be a little bit cheaper to go with a foreign one a lot of times. The price of these is less than if you were to add four of these together, but not always, and not always in the long run, when you’re replacing them.

Another thing to think about is the different sort of ecosystems of es es, so you’ve got BL heli or BL Holley 32. That’S the 32-bit version of BL heli. This is like the widest arrange and probably the most common one you’re going to find out there there’s tons of different es es available in BL heli. Next, you have kiss when you’re looking at kiss es es. It’S not like ble ble, at least the original vo heli was an open-source project, so any company can make an ESC hardware that ran with the BL heli software, whereas kiss is closed source.

So the only kiss hardware you find is kind of all within that same company and family of KISS. So, there’s not a hundred different es es out there that are kiss software compatible, it’s just whatever kiss is making, but the upside of kisses they’ve always been known to be very high quality and perform really well downside, being they’re, also a lot more expensive than a Year, normal BL, heli or BL highway 32 ESC.

Another thing to think about as far as kiss goes is: they also have their own flight controller and their own flight control software. So that’s kind of why I say it’s like an eco system. Typically, if you’re going to go for kiss you’re going to go kiss flight controller and ESC s and you’re going to like stay within that, it’s kind of like going Apple versus Android and then the other one that you’ll find is flight one.

I pretty sure flight. One ASCS are the same as what BL heli runs, but still just thinking about the ecosystem, it’s more of their flight controller that has its own hardware and software and similar to kiss it’s closed source. So you don’t find just random companies making flight one products. It’S the flight, one company, they make their own things and, like I said I do believe there is CSR kind of run, the same hardware as any Bill.

Helia see, and you can also use Bo heli es es with their flight controller. But it’s just something to think about of staying in the ecosystem. I think a lot of people who are going to use their flight controller will probably pair it with their ESC because they know it’s going to work well together, it’s been developed that way from the company. Another thing to think about is wiring and pin outs.

So, especially if you go for a four and one like I said, there’s usually a wire harness that comes off of this. So it’s going to be, like you know, six or seven wires that all go into one harness and some in some cases you can just plug that directly into a flight controller. But the problem is: there’s not a standard, so not every foreign one and every flight controller are going to be pinned out the exact same way.

So it’s usually a smart idea to buy it as a bundle by one companies, four and one ASC. That goes with their flight controller. That way, you know you can just plug it right in if you mix and match you need to look at the diagram of the ESC and the flight controller, and then you just look across and you make sure that they match. If they don’t match, what you need to do is pull the pins out of the harness and rearrange them so that they’re correct for the opposite end and then, with individually SCS.

The only thing to think about really with wiring. Sometimes the ESC is going to come with the wires already on it. Sometimes it’s not. They call it like naked. It won’t come with any wire, which is not a huge deal wires, pretty easy to come across. It’S just good to know whether or not your ESC is or is not going to come with wire. That way, you don’t get all your parts you’re excited to build, and you realize oh there’s no wire on the ESC s and now I have to order wire and wait before I can even build the thing so wiring harnesses and whether or not a does or Doesn’T come with wire, it’s another thing to think about, and, lastly, there’s price there’s definitely a range of different prices and speed controllers and there’s a ton of them out there.

Like a lot of things that I recommend, I would say, shoot for middle of the road. If you’re a beginner you’re not going to need the most expensive and the most advanced and feature-rich ESC to get flying, but you also don’t want to get the cheapest one you can find either you don’t want it to burn up or fail on you. You don’t want to have poor flight performance. The main thing is: get an ESC that has the current capability that you need for your drone, make sure it can handle the voltage that you’re going to put into it and, at the very least, get one that can do.

Disha 600. That’S going to enable you to have a beeper do turtle mode and it should perform very well, so that’s going to do it for es es. I hope this was somewhat informative. I know I didn’t go into too much detail on this, but, to be honest, I’m not an expert on how es C’s worked and for a beginner. I really don’t think it’s important to go into all the details of all the different protocols work and the hardware.

That’S on the ELC there’s a wide variety of es es that will work for you, so once again go for a middle-of-the-road price point, make sure it has D shot and it can handle the current that you need. That’S all this really going to matter for a beginner drone pilot. So with that thanks for reading – and this has been learn to fpv


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3 INCH OCTOCOPTER?!? | You Build It We Fly It!

Are you excited, I’m sure, let’s see what, if I, what what okay? So it’s like a quark, so it’s two quad copters [ Laughter, ], some octo, a three-inch octo, but like half of its turned upside down, so the props can interleave, hey, guys, welcome to wrote a riot, I’m Loretta and now expand over today we are going to Be trying out a really weird drone, so this is something that was sent to Joshua Bardwell to check out.

He brought it here for us all to fly together. It was built by a guy named Victor, it’s his own, weird brainchild. So the idea is that this guy is going to sort of split the difference between a three inch and a five inch right. It’S not like your typical off to college. Rather, it’s like actually eight motors, like all facing up the same way. Half of its turned upside down, the other half is right right right, it’s got we had to offset plates and then the it’s it’s set up so that the prop disks overlap, because some of the motors pointed up at some point.

It’S super different, really weird, but kind of Awesome, yeah design. This is probably the weirdest drone that we’ve gotten to check out so far. I would say so yeah. So this is you build it. We fly it so he’s going to fly the octo first. Thank you. Wow he broke that Tommy’s hex the throttle, because Larry you’ve lost your pride. I want, I won’t crush it I’ll. Take it really easy there. You want car bells going.

First, no, that’s fair! Vincent did reach out to you and drew is a freestyle pilot. I’M sorry that I’m the only one that actually pushes it it’s so interesting. I did a flip. Oh no, he’s right he’s right. I crashed a lot less, but I also do a lot fewer. You impress the trick I like to take my quads home Andrew. Does it I just oh yeah, I mean I’ll fix them. That is so weird because it sounds like a three end.

Flip that thing Wow, not a lot of press coming down. Let’S do it again everything boogies now is this his chin I’ll make it up like this? No, no rough life, the ark that we’re flying today is actually on clean flight yeah. It’S not a beta fight or flight one or kiss, or anything it’s on clean flight, which I was a little bit surprised his tune and everything, though that’s the biggest thing. They may be that light features yep.

My big Victor set this up on clean flight because I think was the only one that is using that he could get eight outputs. You have to seal racing, you only get eight outputs and it is made for clean play, probably fix the rates. So I’m really impressed, especially with the handling it didn’t, feel slow. It picked up speed a lot had good handling and really good battery life and we’re flying a 1304 cell, which is you would we have your motors to? You would never fly that on, like a baby on three edge it’ll be way too heavy.

No, it looks pretty good for a good flight tests are using the same battery. You get use on a five inch flight time. Here is four minutes left 50m, where we’re resting at fifteen three, so I mean we could probably do I’m sure first impressions. What do you think when you flew it? It was different. It was. I was surprised first on how long it flew. I was really expecting. Yeah you’re going to be more inefficient.

I thought it was going to have like half the flight time of a five inch quad. It actually flew longer than some of my five inch wasn’t or about the same comparable times it had a lot of control yeah the biggest. It was the yaw authority, because there were so many motors. There was a lot of things that could spin up or slow down to get that because he all worked weird right. It spins up and slows down motors and uses that angular acceleration of the motors to counter spin them yeah.

It was a very locked and yaw feeling, and on top of that, it flew really good. It flew kind of like a five-inch resaw quad. It definitely didn’t carry it to momentum as well as a heavier quiet, even though the way no I’d be the same yeah, which was weird because it yeah felt like it would weigh the same. She thought it would toss right way, but it didn’t it kind of no in the throttle was low. Lighter did you think it felt it felt lighter in a white, but the throttle Kerr was a lot different as well.

It felt like you’re there’s really not much going on down low uh-huh, just kind of nice. You were trying to cruise down low and keep your line smooth, but then all of a sudden, the top and that thing is really really powerful. Well, actually, so then we started wondering: is it going to be faster than one of our five inch quads? So so we’ve kept my free stock quad with a GoPro up against the octocopter without the GoPro I don’t know exactly who won.

I want to say. I won but here’s the thing I definitely as I’m bad at going in a straight line because you would actually go and I would go up all this and what I noticed was at first. Your quad was faster. I was shocked, but it did seem faster. I would see you in front of me and then I think what happened was your battery would start sagging a lot more than my I did have battery sack and I we were using the same brand batteries it wasn’t it wasn’t the bad.

You know it’s the same battery, but I think that your your drone, the the 3-inch doctor after there’s, less amp, draw it’s not just pumping out thrust in four motors, it’s kind of less amps but two more points which God it doesn’t make sense it should. It should be, it should either all be the same. I still was make sense. I figured the octocopter would be way more inefficient, eight motors that sounds like more amps, and on top of that, because the props overlap each other, you should be losing efficiency yeah.

I noticed and notice with the freestyle too, I was able to do pretty long flights and it felt really consistent throughout the whole flight. In fact, I flew a little bit too long and over discharged all of a sudden yeah they’re, like oh, no you’re, dynamite, 14. Volts whoops, so you took the GoPro off and you went to just do some all-out ripping? Yes, Oh keep up with what you’re doing well as a spectator, you found the prop wash racist, trying to do as many corners as possible because, honestly, in a straight section, the speed felt a pretty pretty similar to my 5 inch claws and when I noticed the Corners is the control was really really good, but there’s almost terrified.

How did you do that? It just accelerated so fast? I was solving around the trees as fast as I could find going around a tree or something I’m trying to 180. If Ike the five-inch cloth kind of carried some Linton through, so it takes longer to stop it and then Rick’s are in the next direction. What was scary and awesome about the octocopter and I would stop, and they would just stop me there – it start it straight in the next slide.

I understand he reacts that fast. I just caught it Brent yeah. I clipped a branch as you’ll see in the DVR clip these branches. Turning in – and I I mean it flung me into the ground pretty good, but like not more than a five inch quad way it was moving, but not that bad. A five inch would have to that wasn’t going to take. It was moving like two arms yeah. You broke 25 % of this drone. The problem is because it’s a unibody as well.

It’S a lot harder to fix, wait and did you break one on each yeah? Yeah you’ve complete that’s 100 % destroyed, actually because there’s two unibody is that drone is 100 % destroyed. That is way way worse. Alright, by the way worse Jimmy, you can’t even feel the motors feel the motors, oh geez, that is nice and that’s not easy. It’S pretty hot they’re, really hot. I was just pushing it really hard, because I want to see how it would take a crash as well, and it was kind of fun to fly out of my comfort zone a lot.

It’S really really nimble. It’S really really fast. Do I like it more than 5 CH what I mean I’d like to until that, so I think what we could say is that if you race as hard as Alex Vanover, this might not be the frame for you. No definitely not. This is going to take a lot of words. It’S got a lot of potential, all right like it’s. It’S really. I think like on a on a course like this, where you have a lot of tight sections, but also a lot of sections where you’re going.

You know we talked about the prop wash and I wanted to address that. It looked like there was more props in like a tune, 5 inch, quad or something would have, but I have to note that it was turning a lot faster you through it. So I think, what’s happening is it’s turning so fast? It’S that’s a whole nother level of propwash that we haven’t got into it. Yeah in bracelet. You think it’s turning faster than you can turn your five inch quad.

I don’t think I can turn a five inch car around that fast, really, oh yeah. So there is a performance advantage. There is a performance advantage and there’s also the disadvantage, because it’s not because it seems lighter still than a five inch quad a five inch quad through us basics long will carry someone winsome a lot through this quad. I was. If you read the you VR, you can see it, I’m like forcing it through the slalom like pitching down into the psalm, to get it to keep going, keep the speed up.

So I really hope you guys enjoyed that. Actually I enjoyed flying it as much as I’m giving you crap for you being the one that broke. It look further, really record when you broken it, because you were going, it was all van over to frame. I hit this tree branch of actual well like I said this is just a passion project of a guy. It is pretty, it is pretty thin here, but let us say that for I’ve never seen anything like this before and for what it is.

It’S really amazing. I’Ll say this is really really great in and just because the first pass doesn’t stand up to the node and over full stand. Durability. There’S a lot. I don’t one I’m going to build one. We just tend to get so stuck in our our ways of life. Five inch quad five inch quad five and we don’t experiment yeah. I like I like experimentation me will that’s where that you build it. We fly it.

Series comes in Hindi. Absolutely, if you guys want us to fly something weird, send it our way and we are happy to just crash it. I mean thank you guys so much for reading this episode, thanks to Vincent for sending this awesome quad for us to fly and destroy, and if you enjoyed this episode, leave us a comment down below. Let us know what you would like to see us build. What we’re drunk, what we’re drone, would you like to see us to have sent to us what we were drawing? Would you like us to try and get a hold of and guys be sure to check out the rotor ID store link in the description down below alright guys, i’m Latrobe, I’m just Rivard? Well, I’m Alex fan over.

Are you guys for joining and we’ll see you next time?


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Build your own Drone Frame

That’S right! How do you design manufacture, send off and get your frames so that you can hold it in your hand? Now, on this blog, I don’t always have the ability to do all the things that are very cool in this hobby, like design your own frame design, your own canopy design, your own accessories, like this axial holder, that I just printed.

So this was actually all done by Miguel senior member of the FPV community. Here in Houston. He goes by the pilot named El profie, and so he is actually one of the ones that I’ve learned quite a bit from in this hobby, he’s been in a few years longer than my three years or so, and so he’s always happy to help people tune To help people fly to help new people to set up races do time trials to sit. There read you fly through his goggles analyze your techniques and give you tips, and so it’s all about that ability to pay it forward.

And so when we get to the edge of my knowledge and my skill set, that’s what I’m going out to the community to find out from people who know better how to do it. So I’m going to show some of the pictures of the design along the way. This is a sandwich stop frame and it takes inspiration from a few of the existing frames on the market today that you may spot two or three of those things that he drew.

Inspiration from had a little bit of help from our friend made a in town, getting the final touches on this very cool house like a little mini. Mohawk fan right there and definitely now so one of the things that he told me he did when he was designing this frame was he wanted the ability to run? You know full-size stacks he’s done by 20 bytes. I think this is actually the second or third frame he’s designed in town from the ground up.

It’S using for press press nuts in the center right here to hold the arms in place and I’ll show some pictures of the diagrams of how those arms actually fit together. The arms are quiet long. They go all the way into the center and meet in the middle right here so that they can stay very rigid. This is a very rigid carbon fiber. It’S five mils. I think he’s actually going to make a revision to this and he said he’s going to bring it down to four and a half mil.

You can see that the standoff with is staggered. It’S slightly thinner in the front, then it is in the back. That’S an interesting design decision right. There has some gummies built into this layer that your stocks going to attach to he likes to use these very thick dog bone style, standoffs which I can tell just by handling them, are much stronger than the other ones, and I’ve been test printing, this AXI holder, Which is going to fit on these rear standoffs just like this and will hold the AXI antenna in there like that, and so you can see.

I still haven’t even cleaned up this print, but it’s cool like so definitely always make friends with the people in your fpv community because they can help you tune. They can help. You learn how to fly. They can help you, you know, even if you have the skills to do something like this, which I don’t have. I haven’t have a 3d printer, so he can give me some of those designs. I can test print them from him now.

One of the things that I don’t advise you to try to do unless you’re very experienced is to print a nylon canopy. So we have this printed by one of the top. You know canopy printers, there’s two major ones in the hobby that always going to want to go to there’s a Phoenix resolutions Chris Griffin over there and then there’s also brain 3d solutions. So those are the two big ones that I would suggest that you go with.

For if you need to get something printed in nylon, printing nylon is not as easy as putting PLA or TPU like this is at your house, and so you have to be careful to get it just right. So let the experts do it. It’S worth paying. The fifteen or twenty dollars, so the nice thing about when you have these frames cut, you can get them cut from CNC madness, which is a place up in Canada. A lot of the frame designers here, stateside use them.

They ship fairly fast there. They do good work. This is cut very nice and very smooth and very well. You can design decide on the type of carbon that you want. The layer thickness, there’s a lot of variety of options that you can choose from when you send it off now. One of my first questions to him after I saw this frame, which you know I thought it was awesome, was what’s the cost you know, and the cost ends up being about 60 to 70 dollars.

So you don’t really save a ton. Maybe if he started to you know generate a ton of these, but he didn’t do this for resale he just likes to be able to have full control over every aspect of his quads. Miguel is known for extremely clean builds, so, if you’ve enjoyed the builds on, my blog i’d have taken a lot of advice from him over the years on build techniques. I’M always reading what he’s doing and, of course, he’s always able to advise in the field when he sees that you show up for the first few times with junky cold solder joints, which is a no-no, so yeah, very, very cool, awesome job on this Miguel.

I’Ve seen it in action, it flies quite well, and you know I personally like to just buy my frame off the shelf and go, but I think it’s an awesome skill to learn. Fusion 3d learn how to do all these drawings, but I I’m pretty familiar with editing software, which I know isn’t the easiest to use. You know photo and really more article editing software. So maybe I can learn this too and start designing some of my own parts.

So awesome job very cool. If you ever wondered, you know how long it takes Miguel said it didn’t take too long for him to learn how to do fusion 3d. I really like that he’s left a dedicated spot in there for the battery strap to go. That’S handy he’s left a little spot at the back so that you can zip tie your power leads and keep them secure. Most of us are running three screws on our frame, so he’s went ahead and eliminated that fourth screw hole to add a little bit of extra protection and save a little bit of weight and material, and he added a couple of little holes at the front to Secure wires or other things like that, this actually holder is actually a dual purpose that he designed there’s room for a capacitor back here too, so his builds are really cool.

I’Ll! Try to get you a picture of one of these. One of these completed builds. Look like so that you guys can see it. So what you guys think leave a comment down below if you’ve ever thought about designing your own frame where any fpv parts, what’s your favorite part of doing builds? Is it assembling the frame soldering all up, and if you know how to use any of the software and have some cool files, do you upload them the finger versus? Do you want to sell them? Do just want to make it so that you have something unique when you go out to the field, this frame doesn’t have a name so post in the comments.

What you think the name should be. I don’t think you’re going to be able to get your hands on one because he’s really just making these for himself, but who knows? Maybe we bug him enough thanks guys,


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Build: Cinewhoop w/ DJI HD FPV (feat. NURK)

We accepted really exciting for you guys today. So Cindy whoops are one of my favorite tools right, so the city whoops. This is the Shen drone. Skort we’ve got a couple of them. What I love about these is that they can do things that other camera systems can you can’t go from really high to low to through to under to over, in the way that these kinds of systems can I’ve been really inspired by people like Robert McIntosh, who Is this the founder of realist, uh D, there’s a skateboarding article called pretty sweet and Thomas Mackintosh made the intro for that article back in like 2012, when drones like didn’t even fly.

He did this awesome single, take movement where he started up over a round threw down just like we’re, trying to create here today that style of filmmaking really inspired me. So I got really excited about the Sheng drone squirt when Andy Shen sent it to me. Okay, so let’s break down the parts that are going to go into this build and in case you didn’t figure it out by now. This is not just following me talking about how cool cinder whoops are for two hours.

This is a build article, so the syndrome squirt swings 3-inch props that are cut down to like two point, eight inches. So the idea with these ducks is that they actually increase air flow as it comes in so as the air flow as air gets pulled into the ducks. It increases the speed at which it goes through and that in turn adds extra thrust, and so, in order to make this fly better, the Ducks are there and you have to have the the props as finally as close as you can to the outside of the Duck companies like jump in have come out with props that are actually designed for the Shen drone.

Squirt like it became a popular enough thing that they designed props custom-made for Kay, and in case it’s not obvious. There are links to all of the parts for this build, including these props and everything else we’re using are macho down in the article descriptions down in the article description of this and for sale on the rotor right store. If you want to follow along with this bill, okay motors, what are we doing for motors? Let’S practice out when you tell us what we’re doing so? These are the T motor F, 20.

V2 s. We chose the 30 to 50 kV variant, and these are some pretty smooth mode when you’re going for smooth flying. You definitely don’t want a super super nachi motor, so we’ve got the Hobby wing g2 stack. This is a 60 FPS see it’s probably overkill for that. This drone, but I love like I’m, sponsored by copying I walking, I use everything from hobby wing, okay, but this is just like the perfect DSC, just the same EFC Vanover races with the 60 amp hobby wing.

I think so. This is like Vanover race, this for a whole season and said it was the most bulletproof ESC. I race it for all seasons. I mean one of my ears. One of them is, I’m just you know, let’s not get into it, and then also we’re going to be working with the DJI fpv unit. We’Re going to this we’re in a high definition bill. You certainly can do you fly typically high def, or do you fly analog mostly? I file a lot of both, but for cine stuff.

I definitely lean on the side of the hair unit, especially for environments like this, where you can kind of you go forever. You have no breakup, no multipathing and just the clearest signal possible. Well, one of the things I love most about flying with DJI is that if, for some reason your GoPro article craps out, you have like a semi usable backup, it’s very nice to have that 1080. Recording on board this frame that we’re working with is the Shen drones squirt and that was designed by andy shen.

Just for anybody who doesn’t know who is Andy, Sheng he’s my sensei he’s started. Designing drone frames way back when, and it eventually came up with this design. He was designing. Drone frames like when for drove for drone frames were a thing, and I think we kind of have forgotten how much we got from him. If you want to check out his website, Shandra is calm. Drones are one of my favorite things about Andy is that he does design log, yes of all, of the missteps and failures of designing a quadcopter frame before.

Finally, sometimes he results in a commercial frame, and sometimes he just gives up and says this doesn’t work. Thank you Andy. We all wouldn’t be here without the work that you did. Where do we start the bill? Paul the best place to start is with a little bit of frame assembly. That’S where I like to start, especially because we’re going to need to Loctite everything. So with with all of these guys, I find that there ends up being like some sort of weird oscillation.

That is never like detectable on footage or anything like that, but it eventually works the screws loose. So especially when you’re with the Ducks like, you really have to push them on and off and pull them on and off, and when you do that a whole bunch, like eventually you’re, going to start losing your screws and stuff like that. So I lock tight. I don’t I almost never lock tight. I actually take a lot of heat for never lock tight at all, so I just chose the one time check your screws that they’re tight and you’ll be fine, but not on this build, don’t say: watertight, get some locked at blue lot! Tape right, blue, oxford, blue, but not a red stuff.

You know some people may be used to seeing me be the guy, giving me instructions and taking the lead, but today I’m just learning from Paul in providing comic relief, good to see people finally working in their strengths. So are you’re just dipping those screws in the Loctite a little bit before you put them on and you’re installing the vertical stand up right, yeah, so there’s three tiny little ones that are on the outside and then there’s four on the inside and on different sized Standoffs, I don’t know the length so they different size.

Yes, no, it’s great, because the Ducks so the Ducks don’t go all the way through here. So that’s the thing, so you need those smaller ones. I mean outside of it in the middle. Let’S take a look. We got these smaller ones on the outside and longer ones. Where are they going to go they’re going to go on the floor in the middle onto that or the frames, and then the look, and then this will all sit all the way through it and actually look ends up looking really good, because then you have this Full TPU kind of carpet yeah it’s great, but you have to remember not to put the long ones on them.

Oh those are ones that I see the longer ones are the green ones. Yes, yeah. The black ones are the smaller ones. Oh. That makes it easy at least they’re a different color Andy loves his pastel colors. So let’s see dogs, what does he ever? They Corgi yeah. We let I’m thinking about corgis and I put the wrong standoff on wow. Let’S put some pictures of corgis up on this article of maybe Andy’s own for the druze scratching his head behind me as if no we’ll edit this part out, but no corgis yeah.

The ceilings are great. I would get that motor son next. Do you want to do that I’ll be happy to do that? I would also Loctite those okay in the same exact reason: Billy’s abduct all all the stuff in place. No that’s so I’m installing these motors well he’s finishing installing those motors I’m going to start opening up the SC, because that’ll be our next yep. It’S a good idea. I haven’t done this because I’m assuming that we’ve done our research, it’s a good idea when you do a build.

The very first time check the length of the motor, take your screw and hold it against the frame where it’s going to be and see. If it is going to extend past the end of the motor base, because if the screw is too long and touches the windings, it will cut into the insulation on the windings and damage them and basically destroy your motor. And you may be thinking well. The screws came with the motor, so surely they’re the right length, but the problem is that the motor designer doesn’t know how thick your frame is going to be, and they’ve made some assumption.

So you always want to double-check this. I didn’t double-check this, and these screws are like half a millimeter away from touching the windings and they are really really close. I’M not touching you! So if you buy the Hobby wing stack as like a one complete kit like the both the flight controller and the ESC, it comes with all the hardware you need to like the status and the standoffs all that inside of the frame.

But we have brought ourselves separate individual ones, so we’re kind of scrounging for somebody that some of you would have bought them separate individually to not because we’re unprepared. So what we’ve got here for hardware is these are 25 millimeter m3 screws, and these are some just little nylon, threaded spacers, these are actually metal, but you’ll probably use a nylon yeah. What I would suggest to do is just get like a m3 nylon.

Spacer assortment pretty sure it’s sold on the rotor I’d store, there’s a link in the article description. If there, if it is, it comes with these spacers in various lengths. Well, Joshua is here screwing around yeah, I’m going to go ahead and tin up our ESC so that we have it all ready before I work on any electronics always make sure that it’s tinned and that we will be able to make nice clean joints on it.

That it’s not likely enjoy because I’m standing so far away from this for the purposes of the camera. So let’s get a close-up here of the placement. So there is a front and a back right, let’s be clear: how can they identify the front in the back? You need to leave space for the fpv air unit, and this like this is the version of the shin drone squirt, that’s built for the air unit. So if you look at the bag, you can see that there’s plenty of room left for the right.

The magical bodice, but here we’ve got a set of 20 millimeter holes and another set of 20 club with one two three and one two: three that’s sort of the front, and then this space back here with no holes is the back and we’ve got four of Our m3 screws going through the front set of 30 millimeter mounting holes the outside one, giving us some spacing from the bottom plate excellent. Normally, I would just mount the ESC with the capacitor and the battery leaves poking out the back me too, but not this time.

Not on this squirt, because why? So because we have to put the fpv air unit out the back, essentially like this, with the capacitor there and the big battery tab zones all in the way, yes see it’s getting in the way. So how should we do it? He shows so I would just take everything and turn it sideways. Okay, you know I’m going out one side and I’ve played around with it a bunch and if you put the ducts on it, will still fit with the capacitor and what we’re going to need to do.

Also, this we’re just going to bend the capacitor up a little bit right, just keep it at where I wanted it. Oh you did. That was right where you want it. Yeah yeah, it’s like off to the side a little bit and off we’ll see when we put the duct on you’ll, see why the capacitor has to go there exactly okay, cool yeah. We did it with battery lead on. Let’S try a little bit too long. I was trying to kind of measure it out so like essentially once the standoffs are on here and then the top lights on.

You don’t need a ton of length on the squirt to reach the battery length. So I’m thinking something like yeah, okay, so I’ll cut. It here I heard you weren’t that impressed with my soldering, you make it fun of my soldering. There was a article about the white noise, I’m a race wire, I’m in Debian, and your biggest complaint about it was that they were hard to solder, because the pads are so close together that you bridge the pads, no never lost a lot of people have that Problem before we try to put the xc60 pigtail on, we want to tin up the leads so that it’s easier to get make that joint, don’t breathe this stuff.

That was really bad for you, yeah, very bad for you, okay, so these are now tend up. Are positive is towards the front end the way we’d have this configured should always double check this a few times, yeah double triple check that you could red to red to positive and black to negative, but there’s a camera guy there and there and there and they’re All reading too so they know that we did it right.

So soldering is the thing that a lot of people struggle with in this hobby because nobody gets into fpv because they want to learn to solder. They want to learn to fly, and soldering is just an annoying thing that you got to get out of the way in order to get in the air. But if you’re bad at soldering, your quad copters are going to fly bad and fall out of the sky. So this is not a soldering tutorial, but if you’re struggling to solder this great big xt60, that may be a sign that you should practice soldering some more before you finish the rest of the build, because this is the most forgiving of the pads, the great big Ones, the little tiny ones are just going to come off.

It’S also the most difficult because you need so much heat right, but the point is it: this will. If your technique is bad, this will show you that your technique is bad. So, what’s good technique what’s good technique, good technique is to have a hot temperature controlled iron. If you have one of those like 30 watt irons that isn’t temperature controlled, it doesn’t have a thermostat that you turn up and down.

That’S not as good clean tip, clean silver, shiny tip, not an oxidized chip. If you put solder on the tip and the solder blueballs up instead of spreading out on the tip, stop do not proceed, you need a new tip or you need to clean your tip. If you are having trouble getting your solder to flow, it’s all craggy and not turning liquid that as a sign, your irons, not hot enough, it’s not driving heat into the joint.

Another thing you generally don’t want to do. Is you want to lay the wire flat against the pad? You don’t want to come out like this, because then there’s not a lot of surface contact between the end of the wire see. The strands of the wire are just kind of like and they’re, not not getting good surface contact how’d you. Sometimes you can get away yeah. I want the. I want the leads to come out, because this is a really high gauge wire you’d picture like the battery strap going on and holding it like that yeah, so that then the lead of the battery will just come in a plug on the back like that.

So probably not going to check many of these batteries anyway, so it really doesn’t matter if that’s a very sound joint next step motors motors, so we’ve got the xc60 wired up. Yes, now we’re going to do the motor. She knows. I got three motor wires nope. I got three motor pegs yep. Does it matter the order? It does not matter the order, depending on who you ask it, how you want so each of the motor steps to spin a different direction, write a cork, the opposite, corners, spin, opposite or the same direction as each other and then next to each other spin, the Opposite direction, there’s two ways to change the motor direction.

The first is, you can solder, so there’s three wires. Those are the individual phases of the motor. If you swap any two phase, the direction that the motor spins is reversed, but you can also use software to program the ESC and change the direction digitally now, I’m kind of of the opinion that you just get it right when you build it, that’s just easier. Does this, how do you know which way they’re going to? Oh you just you swap the leads.

Do you have the motor spin exactly okay, but some to keep an eye out the other way, I’m of the opinion when I, when I water it, I just run the wires straight. It makes clean neat wiring and then, rather than pull up my soldering iron back out, I just rather do it on the computer. One way is not better than the other. It totally doesn’t matter as long as the motor ends up spending the right direction.

At the end of the day, exactly all right like going to sideways that cool, so I’m kind of just gauging out the distance of the wire that I want I’ll pull it out, get it nice and tight. I always have a mistake I make where I get. The motor exactly the right length, then I strip it and pin it and cut it, and then it’s too short. I always leave myself like three millimeters of slack to avoid it, because once you’ve made a motor wire to short, it’s a real pain to fix.

I did that I just going to spoke. You cut wires to exactly the right length. They’Ll be too short. Moving a slack is good in a quad, because a little bit of slack also helps take up vibration. If things are really taut, then when you crashing stuff, then they break okay, one two: three: there you go all right. You probably put a zip tie or something on that, but we’ll do that. Oh yeah! This is all no.

No. This is an exact science like at this point. It kind of becomes an art project. How pretty do you want to make it theirs is how effective, but not that pretty and effective, have to be mutually exclusive, but I’m much more on that. Just get it done and flying side because well more than that, my clubs are race, quads and they all get beat the crap. It must be really different for you flying a sin of look because sin whoops, you know a lot less nice.

You know all right. So the front I’m going to run them underneath this flight controller just going to pass them around instead of in front of the standoffs, really lift this guy up a little huh, oh yeah! If you do that, you want to be real careful when you push it down, not to pinch the wires. You know what I’m not even going to cut those back. I think they’re going to be just right: okay, so the motor starting it all of our motors soldered up very important to double check that there are no solder bridges correct that none of these are touching each other.

Basically, so the way I do that just give the motor a little spin and if it’s three wheels at all, it’s fine if it stops immediately. That is really clever. There’S a principle called fete drag, which means that when two phases are shorted to each other to know the work for that it will actually kind of self break, I’m trying to using the screwdriver to short these two, this whole. Oh there you go.

Oh yeah, look! So now there’s a ton of resistance in order to move the motor, but then, when I release it, it spins and that’s how you know it’s got a shorter rod, so really good. Okay motor started up next flight controllers. Right, if I like control, is super easy because it comes with this plug you just plug it in here, you plug it in there. So here we go boom plug and go ahead, I’ll, let you but man or we need these spacers.

Don’T we yeah here’s the hair of the spacers? Let’S jump the gun, you put those spacers on, don’t screw em down so tight that you crush those gummies. Those gummies are for vibration, isolation, vibration, isolation is important, it makes the quad run smoother and it helps protect. The delicate electronics from damage when you crash that’s not as big a deal on a sinner woof which shouldn’t be crashed, super Superfest.

Most of the time read me: we’ve hope, but especially if you’re building a racing or freestyle quad, that’s why the ESC has gummies on it, even though the ESC doesn’t actually have vibration, sensitive instruments like the flight controller, so squeeze them down tight enough that the gummies Are just a little compressed, but not so tight that they’re completely crushed and the vibration isolation is defeated, so the flight controller we have this plugged in and then we can plug into the ESC.

Ok, now we turn the ESC sideways yep. Do we need to turn the flight controller sideways? No, ok! So because we’re not using so the ESC is built to be put in forward so that you just wire each corner directly. Together. Now we’ve turned it so each motor is now corresponding to a incorrect pad, though them yeah exactly so we’re going to have to do some work in software later, so we might as well just cleanly mount our flight controller.

This way, because we’re going to have to do work on it anyway. One thing I can’t help, but notice is that puts the USB port facing the back that there’s no way so with the squirt there’s no way to heat reach the flight control through the USB anyway, oh because it has the ducts, so you have to take it Apart to use the USB not ideal, no there’s no improvement Andy well. I mostly thought about like getting like a USB extension.

Well you’re, just like a little ya know. That is one annoying thing about the squirt, but what’s like the beauty of this is like once you build it, you have everything working, you put it together and I just don’t ever have to change anything. You don’t break props on it. You don’t burn electronics like it, just is done and it works alright. So here I put these nuts on top just yank it in place best case is if those are nylock nuts.

These are the only ones we had on hand, and these will back out eventually, if you put them on tight enough, that they don’t back out, then they crush the gummy right. So nylock would be better, but this is what we’re going with for now, because that’s what yep? Alright? Are you yeah, so the air unit I would build I’ve only built like one quad with the air unit, might still use my own receiver. Just because I, my my air unit transmitter is broken.

Why is it broken Paul? My front port Powerade on it is framed port counterweight on it. Now there are some flight controllers where you can just literally plug the air unit into the flight controller. That’S so nice and long. The hobby wing is not one of those we’re going to be soldering. This up, but we will literally only have one two, three four or five six solder joints and then we’re just done with the bill.

Pretty much. We got red power to to support us to two 4s voltage it can. The air unit can handle natively if you’re going above 4s. They have you in flight controller, actually has a three amp regulator that you use we’re going to use it anyway, well full grant twelve volt, that’s more than enough we’re going to use this anyway. If somebody one day plugs in a 6s battery by accident, it won’t fry. The thing black is ground, future-proofing, white and gray – are to let you get battery voltage in your goggles and then yellow is the control connection and that’s another ground wire, and if that all didn’t make sense, we got a graphic showing you exactly where to put these Wires on this flight controller, we’re going to go ahead inside arm up what’s a military unit first, for that, so that we’re going to go ahead and mount that air unit, then real solder them.

So if we look at the back, there’s a little hole here conveniently placed so that when you put the no USB can still get access to it and a SD card comes out the top and be brilliant you’re a savant, and we don’t deserve you. So I was just wondering like oh: how do we mount this inside of the frame, and so I don’t look at the one that we have pre-built over here and it turns out there’s a little TPU mount well.

3D print. So you just go. Okay! Stand it up in there yeah so now that curl update we’re going to put our big frame standoffs on okay, so TPU mount thingy, but still uh. Don’T rest don’t write, I’m so excited, though, so we got out. Here’S the piece it’s going to go with the flat side down over the standoffs and half of you guys are going of course Bardwell. What do you think we are idiots and happy you’re going? No do it slower.

I got you guys, so I wonder well, one thing is so at the beginning of this article we all started out like pretty. We balance on this table and progressively Bardwell has pushed me further and further out to the side of the room. It just goes in and it sits right there: okay, okay, so that’s going to go in yep and then this is going to come around yeah. I put it inside of the Santa yeah perfect inside and stand up and then that’s all its going to get soldered up exactly like that diagram.

Oh diagram. Okay! So that’s where you put the camera on, because the camera is the lowest part of the front of this machine, and so we have this mount of created by our own Julian. That wrote a riot and by our I mean there and it bends back and sits down a little bit further so that it’s flush to the ground, which is actually pretty awesome so like. If I push this all the way down. Okay, you know, I might have this upside down.

No, I don’t, okay, how can you tell if you got it upside down? It’S because now it’s it’s all the way on the ground. So it’s just like you just got stream. I see. Oh, I see it. I see the top part kind of angles up yeah and then let’s see the key, so I can figure this out. The camera is just going to go into these screw holes. Wait Josh what happens if you put it on upside down, you just flip it over.

Alright, in soccer, you can do it, but you can do it in the goggles before the cameras. You know you could do that Varga yeah. I did that. I screwed that up I’m going to take these small. I don’t you sure that personal special, what happens if you put the camera in upside down funny, you should ask that Paul, because the camera actually has an up facing arrow on the back, so you can make sure to install it right side up.

But if you do install the camera upside down, you can flip it in the image in the DJI goggles. So the camera is installed right side up right here we got these one and two screws right here. This bottom screw sets the angle. What angle do you typically fly out for commercial shooting in cinah whoops to no more than 10 degrees like very low? It’S almost all very, very slow and go so it’s probably more angle than you would want yeah, but the mic 20.

You can’t you can always spot. I find that’s always easier to fly slower mm-hmm with a higher tilt than it is to fly faster with a larger camera installed on the front next. What’S next, the only thing that’s left just to install the duck two ducks, but it’s really hard to put props on after you’ve put the Ducks on well. So I like to put the props hunt first and then put the duck side as weird as that sounds.

Okay, so I went over and got some props for this build and we’re going to run the props out. So that way, can I show you a protip he’s going to use a motor wrench, because you can’t grip the motors tight enough to cinch down the nuts. This is a battery strap. In fact, it is the Shen drones battery strap that comes with the squirt first, a last one protip he is rubberized. It’S got like a grippy rubber finish if you wrap it around the motor and I cinch the battery strap down to cause the motor to not rotate.

Well, I tighten it perhaps rod now we installed the Ducks the ducks quack quack, so the I start with the middle one, usually okay, this is going to go here. Mm-Hmm he’s ignoring me. What did I not start with the middle one? You put the middle one. It’S just push the oh, I didn’t know there was icy. Oh there’s one under here. I didn’t get that so here from the underside we’re going to get the middle one.

I just did you understand you yep, then we’re going to kind of push down on all the others, it’s very flexible, so it’s raised and you can it wide out it. Is it’s not really rocket, it’s so satisfying when it drops on the plates in okay? Well, here we go: oh yeah, that’s good, so smooth right now on this one you’re going to want to get the capacitor out of the way right. So I just wanted to open to the side a little bit going to need a lot.

Okay, it was antennas out of the way best to have a friend to help you earn acquaintance, so the capacitor is kind of tucked to the side of the duct here, just tucked out of the way. Now these little. Finally, these little things go on yep. They go on the back, there’s no front your friend, okay, on the front of back on the back. One is done by the antenna quarter upper and it’s going to go on the front check they’re, going to they’re going to slide down on the front.

On top of the camera there you go yep I’ll, be back one before we see our unit and then screw goes through the bottom of the GoPro mounts on both sides, so that it’s these are the same screws they’re just going to go right down into the Standoffs, yep, okay, alright, so we’ve put our GoPro mount in I’ve at the I push it all the way forward. I don’t know why I did that okay, but I like it there yeah nice.

We also got ta put this battery pad on a little bit of uma group. I’M a grip, I’m a reversal! Super-Sticky battery pad, don’t need quite as much as we have here so I’ll, just cut it nice about there. You got that you nailed it. Look at this: oh yeah, you got the little that’s the card holder right there but like well. What if I want to plug in my air unit, update the firmware you flip it over oh yeah, yeah, it’s so good! So we are done.

Building the city move. The Shen drone squirt everything is assembled we just have to plug it into the computer, do a little bit of configuration on the the flight controller in the esc and we are ready to go flying. So let’s go do that now. This needs to be all tuned up in the mid flights. There are a lot of things that are not working right now, for example, the motors don’t spin and we even plug this in yet maybe the spell check, let’s say, come on come on over here: let’s see what happened, we got a smoke check.

It we’ve got director Drew coming in to check our work. I think that what we first need to do is show them the things that are going to be the same for every air unit, there’s a which is a very few settings that everybody using DGI is going to need to change +7. Okay, we plugged in yes, so we’re going to connect here in the port’s tab. We’Re going to need to set up. Are we going to refresh this first three, five, six, you arts, but first we’re going to reflash it cuz three: five: six, like the bee gees we’re going to firmware flasher mm-hmm.

What uh? What’S the target for this flight controller? Do you now Romney bus? That’S for SD in case you don’t know the answer to that. You can go to the CLI and type. The word version and it’ll show you the target. Let’S show them how to do it. Okay, I’m cycling the power on the flight controller. So we go out of DFU mode, okay, plugging it back in now we can connect on tt USB modem cuz when a Mac it work.

So we can go to the CLI and we can type the word version, o version I just hit, dump and scroll all the way back up. That will also work, or we can just look up here where it says target us for the configurator. I’M going to be set for SD, that’s information, you need so then we’re going to put it in boot. We can do that by typing BL at the command line or you can hold down the bootloader. But you can’t, I feel, like a badass, we’re now ready to flesh renu-it, affirmed or flashier.

I’M going to pass f4 SD is what we want to see and we were in a flash beta, four-one-oh mode firmware. We loaded the firmware we’re going to flash the firmware. Alright, we’re going to connect beta plate 4.1 is going to ask you to apply custom default to just say: ok, yes, sure we’re good we’re good with that. There’S a reason for that, but we’re not going to dive into that now that we’re done flashing you’re going to connect pretty go to the port set where there are two ports we need to configure.

One is your one receiver, it’s for the receiver! That’S s! Bus! Three is for the air unit: okay, that’s, and that is not. You may notice how the default is set up. That’S okay, screw defaults. We’Re going to go UART three we’re going to enable the MSP column UART, one we’re going to enable serial or X. That is literally all you have to do. It’S just that easy, nice boot check. Moving on on that tab, that’s all you have to do we’re going to connect again we’re going to go configuration tab and we are going to set up a serial receiver, yep and SBUs this sabbaths and save and reboot.

So since this is a DJI product, the very first thing you were going to want to do is register it, which DJI people are completely active and updated. If yeah cuz, the some new updates, just came out, they’re always coming out so USBC cable. It is pretty easy easier than like with beta flight. All you got, ta do is run this DJI assistant software, and then we need a power on the air unit and plug it in and we’re going to update the air unit.

The controller, if you’re, using the controller and the goggles this is the first time you’ve done it. You’Ll have to make an account and all that nonsense definitely read all those terms. Read every word of it. I’Ve read it’s activated, it’ll. Ask you if you want to update the firmware downloading. The next thing we should do is we should bind our DJ controller and our goggles, so you actually have to bind the goggles first and then the controller yeah.

If you buy into the controller first and then the goggles, the controller will lose its bind. So maybe we screw up some goggles yeah. Okay, that’s right! Thank you, Paul it in okay! Thank you! So to bind our fpv air unit and our goggles I’m going to. First plug in the air unit, as well as the goggles which are already plugged in and then right next to the micro, SD port, there’s a little hole reach in give it a poke led, will turn red red and then on the air unit.

Goggles, there’s a button next to the power, give it a poke all right or it’s going to blow up hey. I can see Dan over there and the LED screen and the only these green goggles around. How do we burn the radio Josh funny? You should ask that it’s as simple as pressing three specific buttons at a time three yeah, because on the goggles up in the air unit, there’s just one little bind button, but on the controller you have to hold down this button right here.

The record button and this little scroll ball it pushes in you push those all at the same time, but first you got to turn it on to turn it on whoop press it once and then hold it down. We’Re going to hold down boom record button and the LED here goes blue, go ahead and hit our bind button again on the air unit. The next thing we’re going to do is we’re going to go into beta flight and we’re going to check the receiver tab.

Make sure that we’ve got our AET are setting, and it looks like we need to see – is that, first of all that the receiver blogs move yeah and we’re just double check, but this should be correct. Throttle is throttle. Give me the full Yala yeah left right. Good pitch for pitch beauty, roll I’d say, that’s all correct, so we don’t need to talk about blog mapping, so we’ll go back to config tab. What else do we need to do? Let’S put our motors on D, shot 600 business you’re doing rpm filtering motor.

Stop! No yes or no bi-directional D shot no motor pools we’re going to ignore reset for the idle, though I do 4.0 throttle value on Cindy whoop. I want it to drop a little bit faster so that, if I’m like, because I a lot of times it was like shooting gap, so I want to be able to just come after all and keep going into something. So, okay, so we got D shot 600. We want probably 8 k 8k for the gyro in the pit loop thing for sure, yeah, Barrow and Meg know off.

We don’t need a crafting because we’re not running or mode on. That’S the default. Do you fly with air mode on? Yes, ok. I also do. Oh Steve, whatever antigravity on dynamic filter on all good a minimum arm angle is 180 that disables the minimum our arm angle, which allows you to arm the quad at any angle. What that that shouldn’t normally happen. Ok, we got ta set up our arming mode down into modes.

We are going to need two air unit turned on for that, so I’m going to unplug this back in okay. Will it add range hang on in a minute I’m going to flip this switch as soon as we’re green? Okay, I’m going to flip the switch I’m using for arming I like to use the upper left switch flip that switch. You should now see the little yellow indicator. Moving put the switch into the armed position. Do you push away to armor, pull towards Paul push away it off, I’m going to push the switch away, so it’s in the armed position and then I’m going to look at where that little yellow carrot is and I’m going to put the drag it over.

So it covers it, I don’t you can hit save turtle mode short term mode, flip squad over if you land upside down after adding the range we’re going to flip the switch. I like this one on the front personally, I’m going to flip that and put it in the turtle mode position all the way down. Okay, again, move the slider, so it covers that little carrot and hit save and the angle mode. I like to use the three Pizitz same three position as turtle mode, so middle position will be angled up will be.

Neither and down will be turtle mode, we’ll put in the middle position and then do this hide unused modes. You can check your pretty so we got ta seal and switch before angle mode off and then arming mode which is turning red, but once we unplug we should be good yep go. We got our mode set up. We got ta check our motor directions. Yes, the first thing that we’re going to do is we’re going to check to see if we have our motors lined up with our flight control.

Now I can tell you right now that we don’t because we turned the ESC sideways and why each motor to the ESC directly without wiring a leg all the way around to like motor one to four whatever. So what I’m going to do is I’m going to go and I’m going to go on motor one and I’m going to start to spin it up. And what do you know motor two on the quad starts to spend okay. What are we doing to make a column and it’s the slider number, so we’ve got sliders one, two: three and four: okay, it’s the motor position and if that’s, if you look in the diagram, the positions are one two three and four okay and then the pinna Number, so what we’re going to do? The sliders are one two, three and four and we’re going to raise the sliders one insider.

One moves motor two slider one moves motor two slider two moves motor for slider: three: it was motor one and slide for loose motor. Three: okay: now we got to go to the CLI and we’re going to just tell you guys what to put in the CLI if you’re following along, rather than making like try to explain to you exactly how to do it, because I think that might be confusing Resource motor to be zero, zero, we’re just going to take this stuff from the position, column and map the pins motor to be zero, zero resource motor for be zero one resource motor one 8:03 resource motor 302 and save those lines.

Those lines we can give them in the in the article description or whatever I can copy/paste Amanda, but essentially what we’ve done is we’ve said to each so we’ve taken the pin numbers for which each motor is on and then we’ve said, we’ve figured out which slider Moves which and we’re just reassigning the pins to the proper motor so that now, when josh goes into the motors tab, when he pushes slider one motor one, which is this one right here, will move instead of motor three, which is what it was doing before.

Yes, motor 1: how about the direction I want to make a note of the direction for us is the wrong direction. Motor 2 is the correct position on the right way: correct direction, motor 3, correct position and direction and motor for one the wrong way. Okay, so Motors 1 & 4 need to be reversed. We just connect from beta flight scooch on over to bol a 32 you eat go choose apart, connect check for es, C’s get rid of all, but one reverse.

It right. Put your thing down you just flip: it reverse it and then get rid of that get a more for Unruh, verse it right. Okay, so motor for was going the wrong direction because we reversed it previously. So we’re not well unruhe verse it yep disconnected on them. Go back to the monist have one last time double check. Our work always double check, because you think you got it right, but you might not have got it right, correct, correct, hey! What do you know are ready, muses Maiden.

Are we ready Maiden? Can we put it back together? Could we fly it? Give me main it: can we fly it going to fly it? Are we ready throttle down arm now, don’t raise the throttle just bump the pitch and roll stick a little, and if that happens, and something ain’t right. That’S why I don’t just raise the throttle. We did not staged that you could tell from my sincere reaction that that was what’s wrong, probably get the props on board alignment.

We didn’t fix the board alignment, we’ve remapped, the motors because we twisted the ESC 90 degrees. We also need to remap the flight controller. So if you check it out well, if you look at this 3d model here, you’ll see that when I pitch the quad forward, it actually is moving on the roll axis in this 3d model. It’S not alright. Okay, so we’re going to go to the configuration tab. We’Re going to put in negative 90 or 270 your pic degrees, save in reboot, we’re going to connect and we’ll just double check here.

We will pitch forward. It picked them in 3d model pitches for it. Okay, now now we’re ready, let’s close with the made it, which we definitely didn’t already do one time while Paul is closing this up. Let me remind you that we have a full config dump all this work. If you’ve readed us through configuring, it that’s cool, because you won’t learn how to do it. But if you just want to get your quad setup the same as ours, there’s a config dumb.

It’S linked in the article description. You can paste it into the CLI. You just be set up and you should be ready to go, although you should still check like you should still do your hover maiden carefully, because if anything did get screwed up, your quad will try to flip out all right. Let’S mane, let’s pop some good. Thank you guys so much for reading links to this down in the article description, thanks to Palmer Cole out for helping us build a city.

If you stick this on your chest, I’ll, stick this on my chest: check 3 to 100