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Build: Cinewhoop w/ DJI HD FPV (feat. NURK)

We accepted really exciting for you guys today. So Cindy whoops are one of my favorite tools right, so the city whoops. This is the Shen drone. Skort we’ve got a couple of them. What I love about these is that they can do things that other camera systems can you can’t go from really high to low to through to under to over, in the way that these kinds of systems can I’ve been really inspired by people like Robert McIntosh, who Is this the founder of realist, uh D, there’s a skateboarding article called pretty sweet and Thomas Mackintosh made the intro for that article back in like 2012, when drones like didn’t even fly.

He did this awesome single, take movement where he started up over a round threw down just like we’re, trying to create here today that style of filmmaking really inspired me. So I got really excited about the Sheng drone squirt when Andy Shen sent it to me. Okay, so let’s break down the parts that are going to go into this build and in case you didn’t figure it out by now. This is not just following me talking about how cool cinder whoops are for two hours.

This is a build article, so the syndrome squirt swings 3-inch props that are cut down to like two point, eight inches. So the idea with these ducks is that they actually increase air flow as it comes in so as the air flow as air gets pulled into the ducks. It increases the speed at which it goes through and that in turn adds extra thrust, and so, in order to make this fly better, the Ducks are there and you have to have the the props as finally as close as you can to the outside of the Duck companies like jump in have come out with props that are actually designed for the Shen drone.

Squirt like it became a popular enough thing that they designed props custom-made for Kay, and in case it’s not obvious. There are links to all of the parts for this build, including these props and everything else we’re using are macho down in the article descriptions down in the article description of this and for sale on the rotor right store. If you want to follow along with this bill, okay motors, what are we doing for motors? Let’S practice out when you tell us what we’re doing so? These are the T motor F, 20.

V2 s. We chose the 30 to 50 kV variant, and these are some pretty smooth mode when you’re going for smooth flying. You definitely don’t want a super super nachi motor, so we’ve got the Hobby wing g2 stack. This is a 60 FPS see it’s probably overkill for that. This drone, but I love like I’m, sponsored by copying I walking, I use everything from hobby wing, okay, but this is just like the perfect DSC, just the same EFC Vanover races with the 60 amp hobby wing.

I think so. This is like Vanover race, this for a whole season and said it was the most bulletproof ESC. I race it for all seasons. I mean one of my ears. One of them is, I’m just you know, let’s not get into it, and then also we’re going to be working with the DJI fpv unit. We’Re going to this we’re in a high definition bill. You certainly can do you fly typically high def, or do you fly analog mostly? I file a lot of both, but for cine stuff.

I definitely lean on the side of the hair unit, especially for environments like this, where you can kind of you go forever. You have no breakup, no multipathing and just the clearest signal possible. Well, one of the things I love most about flying with DJI is that if, for some reason your GoPro article craps out, you have like a semi usable backup, it’s very nice to have that 1080. Recording on board this frame that we’re working with is the Shen drones squirt and that was designed by andy shen.

Just for anybody who doesn’t know who is Andy, Sheng he’s my sensei he’s started. Designing drone frames way back when, and it eventually came up with this design. He was designing. Drone frames like when for drove for drone frames were a thing, and I think we kind of have forgotten how much we got from him. If you want to check out his website, Shandra is calm. Drones are one of my favorite things about Andy is that he does design log, yes of all, of the missteps and failures of designing a quadcopter frame before.

Finally, sometimes he results in a commercial frame, and sometimes he just gives up and says this doesn’t work. Thank you Andy. We all wouldn’t be here without the work that you did. Where do we start the bill? Paul the best place to start is with a little bit of frame assembly. That’S where I like to start, especially because we’re going to need to Loctite everything. So with with all of these guys, I find that there ends up being like some sort of weird oscillation.

That is never like detectable on footage or anything like that, but it eventually works the screws loose. So especially when you’re with the Ducks like, you really have to push them on and off and pull them on and off, and when you do that a whole bunch, like eventually you’re, going to start losing your screws and stuff like that. So I lock tight. I don’t I almost never lock tight. I actually take a lot of heat for never lock tight at all, so I just chose the one time check your screws that they’re tight and you’ll be fine, but not on this build, don’t say: watertight, get some locked at blue lot! Tape right, blue, oxford, blue, but not a red stuff.

You know some people may be used to seeing me be the guy, giving me instructions and taking the lead, but today I’m just learning from Paul in providing comic relief, good to see people finally working in their strengths. So are you’re just dipping those screws in the Loctite a little bit before you put them on and you’re installing the vertical stand up right, yeah, so there’s three tiny little ones that are on the outside and then there’s four on the inside and on different sized Standoffs, I don’t know the length so they different size.

Yes, no, it’s great, because the Ducks so the Ducks don’t go all the way through here. So that’s the thing, so you need those smaller ones. I mean outside of it in the middle. Let’S take a look. We got these smaller ones on the outside and longer ones. Where are they going to go they’re going to go on the floor in the middle onto that or the frames, and then the look, and then this will all sit all the way through it and actually look ends up looking really good, because then you have this Full TPU kind of carpet yeah it’s great, but you have to remember not to put the long ones on them.

Oh those are ones that I see the longer ones are the green ones. Yes, yeah. The black ones are the smaller ones. Oh. That makes it easy at least they’re a different color Andy loves his pastel colors. So let’s see dogs, what does he ever? They Corgi yeah. We let I’m thinking about corgis and I put the wrong standoff on wow. Let’S put some pictures of corgis up on this article of maybe Andy’s own for the druze scratching his head behind me as if no we’ll edit this part out, but no corgis yeah.

The ceilings are great. I would get that motor son next. Do you want to do that I’ll be happy to do that? I would also Loctite those okay in the same exact reason: Billy’s abduct all all the stuff in place. No that’s so I’m installing these motors well he’s finishing installing those motors I’m going to start opening up the SC, because that’ll be our next yep. It’S a good idea. I haven’t done this because I’m assuming that we’ve done our research, it’s a good idea when you do a build.

The very first time check the length of the motor, take your screw and hold it against the frame where it’s going to be and see. If it is going to extend past the end of the motor base, because if the screw is too long and touches the windings, it will cut into the insulation on the windings and damage them and basically destroy your motor. And you may be thinking well. The screws came with the motor, so surely they’re the right length, but the problem is that the motor designer doesn’t know how thick your frame is going to be, and they’ve made some assumption.

So you always want to double-check this. I didn’t double-check this, and these screws are like half a millimeter away from touching the windings and they are really really close. I’M not touching you! So if you buy the Hobby wing stack as like a one complete kit like the both the flight controller and the ESC, it comes with all the hardware you need to like the status and the standoffs all that inside of the frame.

But we have brought ourselves separate individual ones, so we’re kind of scrounging for somebody that some of you would have bought them separate individually to not because we’re unprepared. So what we’ve got here for hardware is these are 25 millimeter m3 screws, and these are some just little nylon, threaded spacers, these are actually metal, but you’ll probably use a nylon yeah. What I would suggest to do is just get like a m3 nylon.

Spacer assortment pretty sure it’s sold on the rotor I’d store, there’s a link in the article description. If there, if it is, it comes with these spacers in various lengths. Well, Joshua is here screwing around yeah, I’m going to go ahead and tin up our ESC so that we have it all ready before I work on any electronics always make sure that it’s tinned and that we will be able to make nice clean joints on it.

That it’s not likely enjoy because I’m standing so far away from this for the purposes of the camera. So let’s get a close-up here of the placement. So there is a front and a back right, let’s be clear: how can they identify the front in the back? You need to leave space for the fpv air unit, and this like this is the version of the shin drone squirt, that’s built for the air unit. So if you look at the bag, you can see that there’s plenty of room left for the right.

The magical bodice, but here we’ve got a set of 20 millimeter holes and another set of 20 club with one two three and one two: three that’s sort of the front, and then this space back here with no holes is the back and we’ve got four of Our m3 screws going through the front set of 30 millimeter mounting holes the outside one, giving us some spacing from the bottom plate excellent. Normally, I would just mount the ESC with the capacitor and the battery leaves poking out the back me too, but not this time.

Not on this squirt, because why? So because we have to put the fpv air unit out the back, essentially like this, with the capacitor there and the big battery tab zones all in the way, yes see it’s getting in the way. So how should we do it? He shows so I would just take everything and turn it sideways. Okay, you know I’m going out one side and I’ve played around with it a bunch and if you put the ducts on it, will still fit with the capacitor and what we’re going to need to do.

Also, this we’re just going to bend the capacitor up a little bit right, just keep it at where I wanted it. Oh you did. That was right where you want it. Yeah yeah, it’s like off to the side a little bit and off we’ll see when we put the duct on you’ll, see why the capacitor has to go there exactly okay, cool yeah. We did it with battery lead on. Let’S try a little bit too long. I was trying to kind of measure it out so like essentially once the standoffs are on here and then the top lights on.

You don’t need a ton of length on the squirt to reach the battery length. So I’m thinking something like yeah, okay, so I’ll cut. It here I heard you weren’t that impressed with my soldering, you make it fun of my soldering. There was a article about the white noise, I’m a race wire, I’m in Debian, and your biggest complaint about it was that they were hard to solder, because the pads are so close together that you bridge the pads, no never lost a lot of people have that Problem before we try to put the xc60 pigtail on, we want to tin up the leads so that it’s easier to get make that joint, don’t breathe this stuff.

That was really bad for you, yeah, very bad for you, okay, so these are now tend up. Are positive is towards the front end the way we’d have this configured should always double check this a few times, yeah double triple check that you could red to red to positive and black to negative, but there’s a camera guy there and there and there and they’re All reading too so they know that we did it right.

So soldering is the thing that a lot of people struggle with in this hobby because nobody gets into fpv because they want to learn to solder. They want to learn to fly, and soldering is just an annoying thing that you got to get out of the way in order to get in the air. But if you’re bad at soldering, your quad copters are going to fly bad and fall out of the sky. So this is not a soldering tutorial, but if you’re struggling to solder this great big xt60, that may be a sign that you should practice soldering some more before you finish the rest of the build, because this is the most forgiving of the pads, the great big Ones, the little tiny ones are just going to come off.

It’S also the most difficult because you need so much heat right, but the point is it: this will. If your technique is bad, this will show you that your technique is bad. So, what’s good technique what’s good technique, good technique is to have a hot temperature controlled iron. If you have one of those like 30 watt irons that isn’t temperature controlled, it doesn’t have a thermostat that you turn up and down.

That’S not as good clean tip, clean silver, shiny tip, not an oxidized chip. If you put solder on the tip and the solder blueballs up instead of spreading out on the tip, stop do not proceed, you need a new tip or you need to clean your tip. If you are having trouble getting your solder to flow, it’s all craggy and not turning liquid that as a sign, your irons, not hot enough, it’s not driving heat into the joint.

Another thing you generally don’t want to do. Is you want to lay the wire flat against the pad? You don’t want to come out like this, because then there’s not a lot of surface contact between the end of the wire see. The strands of the wire are just kind of like and they’re, not not getting good surface contact how’d you. Sometimes you can get away yeah. I want the. I want the leads to come out, because this is a really high gauge wire you’d picture like the battery strap going on and holding it like that yeah, so that then the lead of the battery will just come in a plug on the back like that.

So probably not going to check many of these batteries anyway, so it really doesn’t matter if that’s a very sound joint next step motors motors, so we’ve got the xc60 wired up. Yes, now we’re going to do the motor. She knows. I got three motor wires nope. I got three motor pegs yep. Does it matter the order? It does not matter the order, depending on who you ask it, how you want so each of the motor steps to spin a different direction, write a cork, the opposite, corners, spin, opposite or the same direction as each other and then next to each other spin, the Opposite direction, there’s two ways to change the motor direction.

The first is, you can solder, so there’s three wires. Those are the individual phases of the motor. If you swap any two phase, the direction that the motor spins is reversed, but you can also use software to program the ESC and change the direction digitally now, I’m kind of of the opinion that you just get it right when you build it, that’s just easier. Does this, how do you know which way they’re going to? Oh you just you swap the leads.

Do you have the motor spin exactly okay, but some to keep an eye out the other way, I’m of the opinion when I, when I water it, I just run the wires straight. It makes clean neat wiring and then, rather than pull up my soldering iron back out, I just rather do it on the computer. One way is not better than the other. It totally doesn’t matter as long as the motor ends up spending the right direction.

At the end of the day, exactly all right like going to sideways that cool, so I’m kind of just gauging out the distance of the wire that I want I’ll pull it out, get it nice and tight. I always have a mistake I make where I get. The motor exactly the right length, then I strip it and pin it and cut it, and then it’s too short. I always leave myself like three millimeters of slack to avoid it, because once you’ve made a motor wire to short, it’s a real pain to fix.

I did that I just going to spoke. You cut wires to exactly the right length. They’Ll be too short. Moving a slack is good in a quad, because a little bit of slack also helps take up vibration. If things are really taut, then when you crashing stuff, then they break okay, one two: three: there you go all right. You probably put a zip tie or something on that, but we’ll do that. Oh yeah! This is all no.

No. This is an exact science like at this point. It kind of becomes an art project. How pretty do you want to make it theirs is how effective, but not that pretty and effective, have to be mutually exclusive, but I’m much more on that. Just get it done and flying side because well more than that, my clubs are race, quads and they all get beat the crap. It must be really different for you flying a sin of look because sin whoops, you know a lot less nice.

You know all right. So the front I’m going to run them underneath this flight controller just going to pass them around instead of in front of the standoffs, really lift this guy up a little huh, oh yeah! If you do that, you want to be real careful when you push it down, not to pinch the wires. You know what I’m not even going to cut those back. I think they’re going to be just right: okay, so the motor starting it all of our motors soldered up very important to double check that there are no solder bridges correct that none of these are touching each other.

Basically, so the way I do that just give the motor a little spin and if it’s three wheels at all, it’s fine if it stops immediately. That is really clever. There’S a principle called fete drag, which means that when two phases are shorted to each other to know the work for that it will actually kind of self break, I’m trying to using the screwdriver to short these two, this whole. Oh there you go.

Oh yeah, look! So now there’s a ton of resistance in order to move the motor, but then, when I release it, it spins and that’s how you know it’s got a shorter rod, so really good. Okay motor started up next flight controllers. Right, if I like control, is super easy because it comes with this plug you just plug it in here, you plug it in there. So here we go boom plug and go ahead, I’ll, let you but man or we need these spacers.

Don’T we yeah here’s the hair of the spacers? Let’S jump the gun, you put those spacers on, don’t screw em down so tight that you crush those gummies. Those gummies are for vibration, isolation, vibration, isolation is important, it makes the quad run smoother and it helps protect. The delicate electronics from damage when you crash that’s not as big a deal on a sinner woof which shouldn’t be crashed, super Superfest.

Most of the time read me: we’ve hope, but especially if you’re building a racing or freestyle quad, that’s why the ESC has gummies on it, even though the ESC doesn’t actually have vibration, sensitive instruments like the flight controller, so squeeze them down tight enough that the gummies Are just a little compressed, but not so tight that they’re completely crushed and the vibration isolation is defeated, so the flight controller we have this plugged in and then we can plug into the ESC.

Ok, now we turn the ESC sideways yep. Do we need to turn the flight controller sideways? No, ok! So because we’re not using so the ESC is built to be put in forward so that you just wire each corner directly. Together. Now we’ve turned it so each motor is now corresponding to a incorrect pad, though them yeah exactly so we’re going to have to do some work in software later, so we might as well just cleanly mount our flight controller.

This way, because we’re going to have to do work on it anyway. One thing I can’t help, but notice is that puts the USB port facing the back that there’s no way so with the squirt there’s no way to heat reach the flight control through the USB anyway, oh because it has the ducts, so you have to take it Apart to use the USB not ideal, no there’s no improvement Andy well. I mostly thought about like getting like a USB extension.

Well you’re, just like a little ya know. That is one annoying thing about the squirt, but what’s like the beauty of this is like once you build it, you have everything working, you put it together and I just don’t ever have to change anything. You don’t break props on it. You don’t burn electronics like it, just is done and it works alright. So here I put these nuts on top just yank it in place best case is if those are nylock nuts.

These are the only ones we had on hand, and these will back out eventually, if you put them on tight enough, that they don’t back out, then they crush the gummy right. So nylock would be better, but this is what we’re going with for now, because that’s what yep? Alright? Are you yeah, so the air unit I would build I’ve only built like one quad with the air unit, might still use my own receiver. Just because I, my my air unit transmitter is broken.

Why is it broken Paul? My front port Powerade on it is framed port counterweight on it. Now there are some flight controllers where you can just literally plug the air unit into the flight controller. That’S so nice and long. The hobby wing is not one of those we’re going to be soldering. This up, but we will literally only have one two, three four or five six solder joints and then we’re just done with the bill.

Pretty much. We got red power to to support us to two 4s voltage it can. The air unit can handle natively if you’re going above 4s. They have you in flight controller, actually has a three amp regulator that you use we’re going to use it anyway, well full grant twelve volt, that’s more than enough we’re going to use this anyway. If somebody one day plugs in a 6s battery by accident, it won’t fry. The thing black is ground, future-proofing, white and gray – are to let you get battery voltage in your goggles and then yellow is the control connection and that’s another ground wire, and if that all didn’t make sense, we got a graphic showing you exactly where to put these Wires on this flight controller, we’re going to go ahead inside arm up what’s a military unit first, for that, so that we’re going to go ahead and mount that air unit, then real solder them.

So if we look at the back, there’s a little hole here conveniently placed so that when you put the no USB can still get access to it and a SD card comes out the top and be brilliant you’re a savant, and we don’t deserve you. So I was just wondering like oh: how do we mount this inside of the frame, and so I don’t look at the one that we have pre-built over here and it turns out there’s a little TPU mount well.

3D print. So you just go. Okay! Stand it up in there yeah so now that curl update we’re going to put our big frame standoffs on okay, so TPU mount thingy, but still uh. Don’T rest don’t write, I’m so excited, though, so we got out. Here’S the piece it’s going to go with the flat side down over the standoffs and half of you guys are going of course Bardwell. What do you think we are idiots and happy you’re going? No do it slower.

I got you guys, so I wonder well, one thing is so at the beginning of this article we all started out like pretty. We balance on this table and progressively Bardwell has pushed me further and further out to the side of the room. It just goes in and it sits right there: okay, okay, so that’s going to go in yep and then this is going to come around yeah. I put it inside of the Santa yeah perfect inside and stand up and then that’s all its going to get soldered up exactly like that diagram.

Oh diagram. Okay! So that’s where you put the camera on, because the camera is the lowest part of the front of this machine, and so we have this mount of created by our own Julian. That wrote a riot and by our I mean there and it bends back and sits down a little bit further so that it’s flush to the ground, which is actually pretty awesome so like. If I push this all the way down. Okay, you know, I might have this upside down.

No, I don’t, okay, how can you tell if you got it upside down? It’S because now it’s it’s all the way on the ground. So it’s just like you just got stream. I see. Oh, I see it. I see the top part kind of angles up yeah and then let’s see the key, so I can figure this out. The camera is just going to go into these screw holes. Wait Josh what happens if you put it on upside down, you just flip it over.

Alright, in soccer, you can do it, but you can do it in the goggles before the cameras. You know you could do that Varga yeah. I did that. I screwed that up I’m going to take these small. I don’t you sure that personal special, what happens if you put the camera in upside down funny, you should ask that Paul, because the camera actually has an up facing arrow on the back, so you can make sure to install it right side up.

But if you do install the camera upside down, you can flip it in the image in the DJI goggles. So the camera is installed right side up right here we got these one and two screws right here. This bottom screw sets the angle. What angle do you typically fly out for commercial shooting in cinah whoops to no more than 10 degrees like very low? It’S almost all very, very slow and go so it’s probably more angle than you would want yeah, but the mic 20.

You can’t you can always spot. I find that’s always easier to fly slower mm-hmm with a higher tilt than it is to fly faster with a larger camera installed on the front next. What’S next, the only thing that’s left just to install the duck two ducks, but it’s really hard to put props on after you’ve put the Ducks on well. So I like to put the props hunt first and then put the duck side as weird as that sounds.

Okay, so I went over and got some props for this build and we’re going to run the props out. So that way, can I show you a protip he’s going to use a motor wrench, because you can’t grip the motors tight enough to cinch down the nuts. This is a battery strap. In fact, it is the Shen drones battery strap that comes with the squirt first, a last one protip he is rubberized. It’S got like a grippy rubber finish if you wrap it around the motor and I cinch the battery strap down to cause the motor to not rotate.

Well, I tighten it perhaps rod now we installed the Ducks the ducks quack quack, so the I start with the middle one, usually okay, this is going to go here. Mm-Hmm he’s ignoring me. What did I not start with the middle one? You put the middle one. It’S just push the oh, I didn’t know there was icy. Oh there’s one under here. I didn’t get that so here from the underside we’re going to get the middle one.

I just did you understand you yep, then we’re going to kind of push down on all the others, it’s very flexible, so it’s raised and you can it wide out it. Is it’s not really rocket, it’s so satisfying when it drops on the plates in okay? Well, here we go: oh yeah, that’s good, so smooth right now on this one you’re going to want to get the capacitor out of the way right. So I just wanted to open to the side a little bit going to need a lot.

Okay, it was antennas out of the way best to have a friend to help you earn acquaintance, so the capacitor is kind of tucked to the side of the duct here, just tucked out of the way. Now these little. Finally, these little things go on yep. They go on the back, there’s no front your friend, okay, on the front of back on the back. One is done by the antenna quarter upper and it’s going to go on the front check they’re, going to they’re going to slide down on the front.

On top of the camera there you go yep I’ll, be back one before we see our unit and then screw goes through the bottom of the GoPro mounts on both sides, so that it’s these are the same screws they’re just going to go right down into the Standoffs, yep, okay, alright, so we’ve put our GoPro mount in I’ve at the I push it all the way forward. I don’t know why I did that okay, but I like it there yeah nice.

We also got ta put this battery pad on a little bit of uma group. I’M a grip, I’m a reversal! Super-Sticky battery pad, don’t need quite as much as we have here so I’ll, just cut it nice about there. You got that you nailed it. Look at this: oh yeah, you got the little that’s the card holder right there but like well. What if I want to plug in my air unit, update the firmware you flip it over oh yeah, yeah, it’s so good! So we are done.

Building the city move. The Shen drone squirt everything is assembled we just have to plug it into the computer, do a little bit of configuration on the the flight controller in the esc and we are ready to go flying. So let’s go do that now. This needs to be all tuned up in the mid flights. There are a lot of things that are not working right now, for example, the motors don’t spin and we even plug this in yet maybe the spell check, let’s say, come on come on over here: let’s see what happened, we got a smoke check.

It we’ve got director Drew coming in to check our work. I think that what we first need to do is show them the things that are going to be the same for every air unit, there’s a which is a very few settings that everybody using DGI is going to need to change +7. Okay, we plugged in yes, so we’re going to connect here in the port’s tab. We’Re going to need to set up. Are we going to refresh this first three, five, six, you arts, but first we’re going to reflash it cuz three: five: six, like the bee gees we’re going to firmware flasher mm-hmm.

What uh? What’S the target for this flight controller? Do you now Romney bus? That’S for SD in case you don’t know the answer to that. You can go to the CLI and type. The word version and it’ll show you the target. Let’S show them how to do it. Okay, I’m cycling the power on the flight controller. So we go out of DFU mode, okay, plugging it back in now we can connect on tt USB modem cuz when a Mac it work.

So we can go to the CLI and we can type the word version, o version I just hit, dump and scroll all the way back up. That will also work, or we can just look up here where it says target us for the configurator. I’M going to be set for SD, that’s information, you need so then we’re going to put it in boot. We can do that by typing BL at the command line or you can hold down the bootloader. But you can’t, I feel, like a badass, we’re now ready to flesh renu-it, affirmed or flashier.

I’M going to pass f4 SD is what we want to see and we were in a flash beta, four-one-oh mode firmware. We loaded the firmware we’re going to flash the firmware. Alright, we’re going to connect beta plate 4.1 is going to ask you to apply custom default to just say: ok, yes, sure we’re good we’re good with that. There’S a reason for that, but we’re not going to dive into that now that we’re done flashing you’re going to connect pretty go to the port set where there are two ports we need to configure.

One is your one receiver, it’s for the receiver! That’S s! Bus! Three is for the air unit: okay, that’s, and that is not. You may notice how the default is set up. That’S okay, screw defaults. We’Re going to go UART three we’re going to enable the MSP column UART, one we’re going to enable serial or X. That is literally all you have to do. It’S just that easy, nice boot check. Moving on on that tab, that’s all you have to do we’re going to connect again we’re going to go configuration tab and we are going to set up a serial receiver, yep and SBUs this sabbaths and save and reboot.

So since this is a DJI product, the very first thing you were going to want to do is register it, which DJI people are completely active and updated. If yeah cuz, the some new updates, just came out, they’re always coming out so USBC cable. It is pretty easy easier than like with beta flight. All you got, ta do is run this DJI assistant software, and then we need a power on the air unit and plug it in and we’re going to update the air unit.

The controller, if you’re, using the controller and the goggles this is the first time you’ve done it. You’Ll have to make an account and all that nonsense definitely read all those terms. Read every word of it. I’Ve read it’s activated, it’ll. Ask you if you want to update the firmware downloading. The next thing we should do is we should bind our DJ controller and our goggles, so you actually have to bind the goggles first and then the controller yeah.

If you buy into the controller first and then the goggles, the controller will lose its bind. So maybe we screw up some goggles yeah. Okay, that’s right! Thank you, Paul it in okay! Thank you! So to bind our fpv air unit and our goggles I’m going to. First plug in the air unit, as well as the goggles which are already plugged in and then right next to the micro, SD port, there’s a little hole reach in give it a poke led, will turn red red and then on the air unit.

Goggles, there’s a button next to the power, give it a poke all right or it’s going to blow up hey. I can see Dan over there and the LED screen and the only these green goggles around. How do we burn the radio Josh funny? You should ask that it’s as simple as pressing three specific buttons at a time three yeah, because on the goggles up in the air unit, there’s just one little bind button, but on the controller you have to hold down this button right here.

The record button and this little scroll ball it pushes in you push those all at the same time, but first you got to turn it on to turn it on whoop press it once and then hold it down. We’Re going to hold down boom record button and the LED here goes blue, go ahead and hit our bind button again on the air unit. The next thing we’re going to do is we’re going to go into beta flight and we’re going to check the receiver tab.

Make sure that we’ve got our AET are setting, and it looks like we need to see – is that, first of all that the receiver blogs move yeah and we’re just double check, but this should be correct. Throttle is throttle. Give me the full Yala yeah left right. Good pitch for pitch beauty, roll I’d say, that’s all correct, so we don’t need to talk about blog mapping, so we’ll go back to config tab. What else do we need to do? Let’S put our motors on D, shot 600 business you’re doing rpm filtering motor.

Stop! No yes or no bi-directional D shot no motor pools we’re going to ignore reset for the idle, though I do 4.0 throttle value on Cindy whoop. I want it to drop a little bit faster so that, if I’m like, because I a lot of times it was like shooting gap, so I want to be able to just come after all and keep going into something. So, okay, so we got D shot 600. We want probably 8 k 8k for the gyro in the pit loop thing for sure, yeah, Barrow and Meg know off.

We don’t need a crafting because we’re not running or mode on. That’S the default. Do you fly with air mode on? Yes, ok. I also do. Oh Steve, whatever antigravity on dynamic filter on all good a minimum arm angle is 180 that disables the minimum our arm angle, which allows you to arm the quad at any angle. What that that shouldn’t normally happen. Ok, we got ta set up our arming mode down into modes.

We are going to need two air unit turned on for that, so I’m going to unplug this back in okay. Will it add range hang on in a minute I’m going to flip this switch as soon as we’re green? Okay, I’m going to flip the switch I’m using for arming I like to use the upper left switch flip that switch. You should now see the little yellow indicator. Moving put the switch into the armed position. Do you push away to armor, pull towards Paul push away it off, I’m going to push the switch away, so it’s in the armed position and then I’m going to look at where that little yellow carrot is and I’m going to put the drag it over.

So it covers it, I don’t you can hit save turtle mode short term mode, flip squad over if you land upside down after adding the range we’re going to flip the switch. I like this one on the front personally, I’m going to flip that and put it in the turtle mode position all the way down. Okay, again, move the slider, so it covers that little carrot and hit save and the angle mode. I like to use the three Pizitz same three position as turtle mode, so middle position will be angled up will be.

Neither and down will be turtle mode, we’ll put in the middle position and then do this hide unused modes. You can check your pretty so we got ta seal and switch before angle mode off and then arming mode which is turning red, but once we unplug we should be good yep go. We got our mode set up. We got ta check our motor directions. Yes, the first thing that we’re going to do is we’re going to check to see if we have our motors lined up with our flight control.

Now I can tell you right now that we don’t because we turned the ESC sideways and why each motor to the ESC directly without wiring a leg all the way around to like motor one to four whatever. So what I’m going to do is I’m going to go and I’m going to go on motor one and I’m going to start to spin it up. And what do you know motor two on the quad starts to spend okay. What are we doing to make a column and it’s the slider number, so we’ve got sliders one, two: three and four: okay, it’s the motor position and if that’s, if you look in the diagram, the positions are one two three and four okay and then the pinna Number, so what we’re going to do? The sliders are one two, three and four and we’re going to raise the sliders one insider.

One moves motor two slider one moves motor two slider two moves motor for slider: three: it was motor one and slide for loose motor. Three: okay: now we got to go to the CLI and we’re going to just tell you guys what to put in the CLI if you’re following along, rather than making like try to explain to you exactly how to do it, because I think that might be confusing Resource motor to be zero, zero, we’re just going to take this stuff from the position, column and map the pins motor to be zero, zero resource motor for be zero one resource motor one 8:03 resource motor 302 and save those lines.

Those lines we can give them in the in the article description or whatever I can copy/paste Amanda, but essentially what we’ve done is we’ve said to each so we’ve taken the pin numbers for which each motor is on and then we’ve said, we’ve figured out which slider Moves which and we’re just reassigning the pins to the proper motor so that now, when josh goes into the motors tab, when he pushes slider one motor one, which is this one right here, will move instead of motor three, which is what it was doing before.

Yes, motor 1: how about the direction I want to make a note of the direction for us is the wrong direction. Motor 2 is the correct position on the right way: correct direction, motor 3, correct position and direction and motor for one the wrong way. Okay, so Motors 1 & 4 need to be reversed. We just connect from beta flight scooch on over to bol a 32 you eat go choose apart, connect check for es, C’s get rid of all, but one reverse.

It right. Put your thing down you just flip: it reverse it and then get rid of that get a more for Unruh, verse it right. Okay, so motor for was going the wrong direction because we reversed it previously. So we’re not well unruhe verse it yep disconnected on them. Go back to the monist have one last time double check. Our work always double check, because you think you got it right, but you might not have got it right, correct, correct, hey! What do you know are ready, muses Maiden.

Are we ready Maiden? Can we put it back together? Could we fly it? Give me main it: can we fly it going to fly it? Are we ready throttle down arm now, don’t raise the throttle just bump the pitch and roll stick a little, and if that happens, and something ain’t right. That’S why I don’t just raise the throttle. We did not staged that you could tell from my sincere reaction that that was what’s wrong, probably get the props on board alignment.

We didn’t fix the board alignment, we’ve remapped, the motors because we twisted the ESC 90 degrees. We also need to remap the flight controller. So if you check it out well, if you look at this 3d model here, you’ll see that when I pitch the quad forward, it actually is moving on the roll axis in this 3d model. It’S not alright. Okay, so we’re going to go to the configuration tab. We’Re going to put in negative 90 or 270 your pic degrees, save in reboot, we’re going to connect and we’ll just double check here.

We will pitch forward. It picked them in 3d model pitches for it. Okay, now now we’re ready, let’s close with the made it, which we definitely didn’t already do one time while Paul is closing this up. Let me remind you that we have a full config dump all this work. If you’ve readed us through configuring, it that’s cool, because you won’t learn how to do it. But if you just want to get your quad setup the same as ours, there’s a config dumb.

It’S linked in the article description. You can paste it into the CLI. You just be set up and you should be ready to go, although you should still check like you should still do your hover maiden carefully, because if anything did get screwed up, your quad will try to flip out all right. Let’S mane, let’s pop some good. Thank you guys so much for reading links to this down in the article description, thanks to Palmer Cole out for helping us build a city.

If you stick this on your chest, I’ll, stick this on my chest: check 3 to 100


 

By Jimmy Dagger

Find out my interests on my awesome blog!

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