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Knives and Processing Wood

What I wanted to do today was continue in our article series. We talked about yesterday, my humble opinion on knives, and I want to talk a little bit more and expand on some of those things that we talked about. Yesterday and show you some techniques and also again talk about some nonno’s for knife use. One of the things that we talked about a lot yesterday was using a baton with your knife, and basically, a baton is just a piece of hardwood and again I, like mine, you know about arm length from my armpit out to you, where the crook of my Wrist is, and it needs to be made out of a piece of hard wood that you can make contact with the back of your knife to create a better cutting tool out of your knife and give it more force.

If you don’t have an axe and you need to cut something that you can’t just push your knife through. Obviously you don’t want to chop with that knife, and we talked about that. So this becomes the thing that you swing and the knife becomes a solid point of contact that becomes a blade for cutting. So this is an extension of your knife. If you don’t have an axe now, if you have a saw, you may still need to baton.

But if you have an axe, you have no need for either. The problem is you’re not always going to have an axe in every situation and that’s why you need to learn or understand the limitations and capabilities of baton in your knife. So we can use any sized knife from the TLC that we talked about yesterday. All the way up to and including, like the Pathfinder Scout, with a big six-inch blade to baton, we can use the mores if we have to.

But again I tend to stay away from baton knives that are not full tang for fear that they may break at the rat tail and you may go for years without ever breaking a rat tail tang knife, but the time you need it. The most is usually when your equipment fails and I’m not going to take that chance and that’s what we talked about full tang knives. So what we’re going to talk about today is a little bit of do’s and don’ts with your knife, how to use your knife properly with a baton, how to not use your knife properly.

Obviously we talked about you never use your knife to swing like in hacks, because it’s very uncontrolled, it’s very unsafe and it doesn’t take maximum advantage of that blade. I can take a lot more advantage of that blade as a cutting surface by using it with a baton, then I can ever take by sewing it with my hand. The other thing I would never do with my knife is tie it to the end of the stick and make a spear, and I had a couple questions about that.

I’ve had people ask me about that before. Why don’t the knives that I use have the ability to be bolted on to something else as a spear? Well, if your knife is your only tool, why would you want to attach it to a stick? It could possibly come off of and now you’ve lost. Your only tool goes back to my same mentality of throwing knives. Why would I ever want to throw a knife and throw away the only tool that I have? I would never do that.

So I’m not going to use it for a spear at the same time by swinging it as something like an axe. I take a chance on doing damage to that knife for damage to myself. That’s unnecessary. If I can better control the way that knife cuts by using a baton and that’s what we’re going to talk about a lot today, stay with me guys, okay, so what I have in front of me is: I have a hickory sapling and this sapling is about Three inches in diameter at the bottom.

It would be something that I may use for a ridgepole or a construction portion of my shelter. If I were having to build something primitive, it’s a pretty tall tree, it’s probably over 20 feet tall. It’s got a lot of limbs on it. It’s got like I said about a three inch base. So let’s talk about how we would use our knife to process this tree depending on what we’re trying to do. Okay, so the first thing I’m going to do is I’m going to bend this tree over and decide how much of this tree? I don’t need because I’m not going to need the top of this tree for my shelter, although I may use the branches and things like that.

That’s why we’re going to limit, but I’m not going to use the top most crooked portion of this for a construction element, my shelter, so I need to get rid of part of it. Okay, so, as I said, we’re going to have to limb this tree, someone there’s no reason for us to use our knife necessarily unless we have to. If I’ve got a baton already, I can probably beat on many of those limbs off of there by striking against them and down and just pull them off.

If they don’t come off. That way, then I’ll use my knife with the baton, but I want to save that knife as much as I can first remember that in a situation where you are truly stuck down to one tool and that tool is your cutting blade, it’s your most important asset. So the least you have to use it the better off. You are okay, so I’ve got the one here that doesn’t want to come off. What I’m going to do is I’m going to straddle this tree and I’m just going to cut it off with my knife.

The best way for me to effectively do that now that I’ve got it ripped down, is just to put my knife on top of it and hit down just like that and cut it off now. If I’ve got an area where I can’t get the limb off for some reason with my baton, then I will choose to baton my knife through that limb and we’ll talk about that next. Okay. So if I have a limb like this one and this one would come off just by smacking it with this baton, but for sake of this demonstration, we’re going to use our knife, what I’m going to do is I’m going to put my knife in the crotch Of that limb, just like this going down the tree, I’m going to use this area of my knife and again the majority of what you do is going to be used is going to be using this portion of your blade.

So I’m going to get that thing as close to the bottom, as I can and just cut it straight off, just like that with my knife. If I get to that point, I’m good it didn’t take, but a couple of small taps to get that done, and I wasn’t swinging and flailing my knife around like some kind of an axe and that’s the point. Okay, now we’re to the point where we’re going to take the top out of this tree. The best way for us to do that is to bend the top in toward us and push down what that does.

Is that put stress on the bend right here once we’ve got that Bend stressed, we can then safely cut it and as long as we’re standing on it, it’s going to flip out of our way. So we’re just going to take our knife and push down in toward the material just like this and we’re just beaver chewing in just like this, with our knife and sooner or later, even on a live hickory we’re going to get that off of there.

Now we have no top on this tree. All we have is this point. I want to get to add a little less dangerous and just round it off a little bit and then we’ll let the tree go back up. Okay. This is a very good example. This live hickory that were working on right now is a very good example of something that you would use for a spring poll you’re going to have to get rid of all the foliage on this tree, because it’s going to cause resistance when it tries to spring Upward, but a sapling like this – that’s nice and big nice and tall.

This thing’s still like 15 feet tall and has a lot of pressure on it. That’s what you’re going to have to have if you’re going to try to do primitive trapping, because something like this will lift an animal off the ground. Remember if you’re, using primitive methods to trap with you’ve got to get that animal off the ground. Something like this will do it, so that’s a very good technique to take the top out of a tree take a few, the branches off of the tree of the sapling, so that you can then use that for a spring Pole.

Okay, so again, this is our pole at present right here. This is a heavy-duty pole. I’m going to pull this thing down and let’s string up one more time on you about where it would be if it were a trap, spring device, and you can see how heavy due to that piece of hickory is. That makes a great spring pole you’re going to need something the size of that if you plan to do primitive trapping okay. So let’s look at this pole as if we’ve decided, we need to take the whole thing with us now.

Maybe we’re going to use this as a structural pole for a shelter or a travois or some type of a device for dragging someone out of the woods if we needed it like a like a mature of some kind that we can drag like a trip away Or we’re going to use this whole thing for a spring poll, but we didn’t happen to get lucky enough that this great spring poll was right by where we want to set our trap. So we got to take this with us to jam it somewhere else.

In a log jam or bury it partially in the ground or lever it somehow so that it will work the way we want it to work at any rate, when we cut this down, we don’t want to leave. You know a three-foot stump sticking up out here. That’s going to be a killing device if somebody trips on okay, all we’re going to do with this tree is we’re going to pull our knife out. So I figure out which side of the tree I need to get on for you guys to see this.

The best we’re going to come down at a low level of the tree and we’re going to cut ourselves a v-notch in this tree a little bit of an angle. And I want to cut that in there. With the belly of my knife, or just behind the belly, and then I want to come in cut that notch out just like that and if I’ve gotten myself half way through the tree. At that point, I should be able to bend this sapling over and it should break.

If that doesn’t happen, then I’m just going to move over a little bit and I’m going to cut a bigger chunk out off to one side, just like this again trying to go half way through the tree trying to control this. Let you guys see it at the same time a little bit sure, but that’s okay! Now it’s going to come straight over now. I can take my knife and shear it off just like this, and if I get some stubborn bark I’ll just run that over the top and go straight down on it and now that tree is ready to go.

I just beaver tune around it until I could push it over and then chopped it off, get it all with my baton, the first two-thirds of my knife and never had to swing anything except this, which is much more controllable and less sharp than swinging this. Okay. So, let’s take a smaller tree in this example, is something that we’re going to harvest. We’ve got a triple triples coming out of the ground right here.

All we’re going to do is bend this down and find our Bend and then we’re going to be virtual with our knife. If we don’t have a big enough knife that we can beat on it, oh we’re a little bit leery of batana our knife. We can always be virtue this thing down and I’m going to show you how to do that right now. Okay, so maybe the knife that we have is not optimal for batani, but it’s still plenty sharp.

Well, that’s just going to dictate to us what size trees. We can pick on a little bit, but we can still get the job done. We just need to figure out where this tree is flexing. You can see it flexing right there and that’s what we’re going to use our knife we’re going to take advantage of that Bend and we’re going to start to cut into that Bend. Just like this, you see how that just bent right over and busted with just a couple of cuts once I’ve done, that I can be virtu my way back around until I cut that completely out.

Just like that. Okay, again we’ll go back to our small knife for a minute and say that we want to process this down to a certain length, we’re going to use it for a tripod stand. Whatever the case may be, we can’t sit here and hack on this thing. For a half an hour with our knife trying to chop it, or we can just take our baton and make a V cut in here over halfway through on this side, turn it over and do exactly the same thing on the backside.

Having problems getting to lay the way I want to house it in top it first, that’s okay, another advantage to topping the tree beforehand is easier to control, and then you can see. I just cut that to length with two cuts very easily snap that off and that things cut to length I didn’t have to swing my knife. All I had to do is very controlled and use my baton very simple, okay, well we’re sitting here with this.

Stick in her hand, let’s talk about another reason or another way that we can use our knife. Now that we know we have a ninety degree spine on that knife again, we’ll go back in a smaller knife, the trap line, companion and if I want to process this thing, maybe this is a dead limb and I want to process this bark for use. As a tinder bundle, I can’t scrape the bark with my knife just like this on the back side, or I want to just remove the bark down to the inner bark or down to the sapwood.

I can do that very easy. With the back of this knife – and I don’t have to sacrifice my blade to try to do things like the bark removal – I can do that with the spine of my knife just like this, and you can see how good that 90 degree spine removes that bark. If I want fine shavings, I can get those as well, and this will work the same way for dead wood as it does for green wood. That 90 degree spine allows me to get very, very fine shavings if I need them, and that is exactly what happens with your ferrocerium rod when you scrape it you’re, taking those fine shavings of magnesium and other materials and removing them, and they spontaneously combust with oxygen And ignite, and one of the things I was talking about yesterday in my article, was about not worrying about carrying a downes bar because you wear out the mat, the mag board.

You wear out the Ferro rod long before you’re, going to wear out the magnesium and what a lot of people don’t understand is because these rods have so much magnesium in them. You can’t always just scrape the rod to get a pile of shavings and those shavings are going to be highly combustible. You just got to be careful about it, so that you’re not creating spark and then you’re going to get the same thing you get with magnesium.

So I wouldn’t carry the downes bar because it has magnesium on. I just care extra feral rod, okay, so real quick. Let’s talk about “’but awning wood as far as processing firewood goes now. This log is about four inches in diameter. If I have a saw, I can cut those logs, but I’m going to be here all day trying to do this. So it’s a lot easier for me to baton this. If I don’t have an axe, if I have an axe, I can forego all of that.

But I don’t have an axe because I’m down to you know I just carried a saw and a knife because that’s all I thought I was going to need or all I have is you know well I’ve got then I may have to beat on wood and That’s all there is to it, so there are ways that you can beat on logs like this properly and there’s ways to do it, I’m properly or unsafely, and one thing that I want you remember is like I said this is a four inch diameter long and That is one of the reasons for the length of this knife.

Okay, and this is about a five inch log. Actually, so there’s barely any stick out on the edge of this log. So when I get this knife down into here that this log hasn’t split for some reason, I still have something to hit with my baton. Besides the back of my knife or the back of my hand, that’s the reason for that blade length. If I have a four inch blade and I’ve got a vlog, this big once I get down to the center of it now I’m either banging on the back of my hand or I’m banging on the handle, and I don’t want to do that.

So that’s another reason for the five to six inch blade length, because a four inch log is good fuel size. It’s also good size for shelter, building material. You should never have to process anything bigger than four inches in diameter in a woodland emergency or a wilderness emergency scenario. You should never have to process anything bigger than that, so big choppers and things like that in eastern Willa’s aren’t necessary.

You really don’t need them. So what we’re going to do is we’re going to lay our knife on the log and I like to split the center first and you want to you: don’t ever want to do this, you don’t want the belly of your knife or the point of your knife. Going into this piece of wood remember that this area is going to be used for skinning tasks, find carving tasks and all of those types of things, and it’s also the hardest to resharpen that area in the field.

That’s important thing to remember that some people, don’t realize, is a straight long flat like this is much easier to resharpen than a curved edge right here, even in a controlled environment. That’s the part that most people have struggle with. So in the woods it’s really going to be a problem, so I need to conserve that area of my blade, the best I can so I’m going to push my knife, no matter how big my log is all the way to the edge of that blade.

Now this one just happens to be wide enough. Then it’s going to take up some of that area. I don’t want to use, but I have no choice in that with this long. If I had a choice I wouldn’t be doing it, then I’m going to get I’m going to hold back on the handle a little bit to make sure my hands completely out of the way and I’m going to take a seating tap. I’m going to make sure that knife is seated in there very well, then I’m going to take a harder smack if my knife gets cockeyed I’ll, move off to the side a little bit and continue now you can see I’ve went down through this log and it Did not split it completely out.

Part of that is blade, grind issue. If this was a Scandinavian, grinder or a wedge shape, it would split this much butter. This is a flat grind, which is a narrow. It’s a full flat grind, which is a narrow wedge, not near as good for splitting wood, much better for processing meat and game again trade off. If I had the Pathfinder knife in this thing, it would have split wide open. So now I’m at the mercy of smacking on this tip, but if this tip wasn’t here, what would I do? I need there to be swinging this down to try to bust it and flail around my knife, or I’d have to try to pry it out of there start over again, alright be smacking back here on my handles so by having that little blade length out there, I was able to effectively split that log open.

If I quarter this, that’s going to be more than enough for fuel, that’s going to be enough! Cutting down of that material to make fuel! This is long burning fuel. If it’s hard wood, that’s going to burn a lot faster. If I’m trying to make fire material for starting my fire like a kindling pile, then I’m going to have to split this down considerably more because kindling to me is something the size of a pencil or less.

So now I’m going to have to split that down again into eights. Then I’m going to have to drop down and split it into 16 crossways. Then I’m going to have to split that down into 30 seconds. I don’t have to get out of control with this. These pieces here are going to be good kindling. That’s an important thing to understand, especially if you’re in a wet weather situation you can’t find dry material oftentimes breaking inside a log is going to give you the driest material.

Now you could choose to go down. One step further with this: no problem, if you were really in wet conditions, you want to insure yourself a lot of surface area. You could split that down it’s a little bit more to stuff like this and that’s going to be more highly combustible. Now, if I were really really worried about my fire and I had really extremely wet conditions, then I might take a stick: the size of this one that was going to be kindling, and I might take that and use that to make a feather stick and again, I’m just using my thumb for a guide here.

This is hard wood, so it’s not going to shave down near as well as a piece of soft wood, wood, soft wood wood, but I can still get their surface area increased dramatically by putting some fine shavings around this piece of wood. Just like that, I knock them off. They don’t do me a whole lot of good. I really need to stay on their partner. That’s a function of this wood being dry, but these kernels are going to give me increased surface area for the flames and again you know this is a pretty good sized knife.

This is no Maura. This is a big butchering knife that we’re using, but it’ll get the job done, not as well as a Maura, but it’ll definitely get the job done and that’s what counts. Okay, folks! Well, I hope you enjoyed this article today a little bit more about knives. My thoughts on knives, what you can do with your knife, if you got the right skill level, how to use your knife to process different types of wood, and things like that, you may need to do in the woods and the safest way to do that.

I appreciate your time your support, your views, everything you for me for my school and for my family I’ll be back to another article. Soon, as I can, thanks guys, you


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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Knife Day Monday – Unexpected Knives today

I presume he said that one was his father’s and this one he said a fella made for him from a lawnmower blade. He said I can’t get it to stay very sharp though, but it’s a nice knife made from a lawn mower blade. I won’t think I haven’t seen a lot more blade like before you.

Well, it’s 4:30, my Indians are outside and believe it or not. I got three more knives. I got a whole rada and three from ISIL. It says Portugal, as you can see, they’re in bad shape. Little edges on good gracious anyway. Tell it I’ll see you tomorrow,


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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My One Bushcraft Knife… CRK Pacific Review

So now I’m going to do my review and overall thoughts about this knife, so, let’s jump into it.

This is a pretty big claim to say I’m only using this knife, I will say the primary reason I am choosing to go that way or why I’m not running a whole bunch of different other knives from bush crafting or survival practice is because I truly want To get good with one knife – and my thing is: I’ve – just had it up to here off the screen with just having a whole bunch of different survival, knives that I’m never using and there’s a whole bunch of excellent once it certainly doesn’t have to be the One for you, but this is the one that I chose, and there are a few other reasons aside from me, just being fed up with the knife industry on why I chose this one.

So now, let’s get into those so starting off with this knife. One of the primary reasons why I was attracted to this knife and my original thoughts for getting this knife was that I wanted to work more on island survival being close to water and working with the water, more hand in hand and imma be rolling in pictures Showing you guys what I’m talking about, and so when I sat down and thought about what knife I need a for working so close to the water.

I wanted a knife that had a really good stainless steel. So it’s not only a good steel generally all around, but it’s also very rust resistant. This is a knife that I could get wet and not really fear the steel rusting, and so that is the primary reason. The s35vn is what led me to this knife next, to that, it’s also the world nests of this knife. When I did choose my one and only survival knife, I wanted to make sure, and it was a knife that was not going to break.

I wasn’t going to give me issues as far as the thinness of the blade, so that was my next consideration or thought really was that one of saying robust now this knife is close to 1/4 inch thick and definitely fits the criteria of being robust. So, lastly, I wanted a knife that also had great ergonomics, because the last thing I will say if your are choosing and one knife to be your bushcraft knife going forward, it does need to feel comfortable in the hand and it needs to feel natural and that It really is this knife, and I have to say as far as the ergonomics go, it not only feels natural, but the way this micarta was done.

It was not only left for broth, but it was also left textured. So there’s a whole bunch of essentially little protrusions in the scale that grip it to your skin, not in an uncomfortable way, but in a really positive way. So the night feels very comfortable in hand, but it also walks up into your hand very well and I’ve always enjoyed since day one I’ve enjoyed the hell out of these grips, and I really do love the grips on this thing, they’re absolute when for me, so Basically, those were my three qualifications: it had to be waterproof or very water resistant and a rust resistant and very keen was working in water environments.

It had to be robust and it still had to be very comfortable, and so that’s what landed me on the Chris Reeve knives specific and also I have had in the past emailing. Some of you guys know you know I’ve had Sebenza before so this isn’t my first Chris Reeves knife knife and I’ve always been very impressed with the quality and with the warranty on these knives. It’s just a really great brand. It came with a few issues of you know these different these different, these different guards kind of got in the way, but overall I was still able to find it a very easy time choking up on the knife, doing more fine tasks also due to the heavy Haft of this knife because, like I said it is a reasonably thick knife, it also did chopping very well, and I’ve always been impressed with the ability of this knife to just go right through material and just clean cleanly swipe right through material.

I think another thing that helps with that is the fact that this is a very finely ground edge and you guys can see it has a nice long grind to it and then a great battle. It’s very polished edge. It is extremely sharp, so it’s weight and it’s grind in bevel have helped it sail through materials like nobody’s business. It’s also not to mention a very good knife for beat awning, because it has been very great in the water.

Obviously, this this gun coat in my son. I do find interesting that this knife doesn’t have just some. You know like spray-paint coat. It does have a gun coat on it. I believe the gun coat is similar to a seracote. It has been extremely durable. There’s only a few places where the coating has minorly loved off, primarily on this, where the grind starts, and that is not too uncommon to see on. Basically, any knife you put Todd with because that’s where the most friction is put on when you put on with a knife, so it’s not to be unexpected, but the coating is very durable.

The rust resistance, as I seen it and listen. I have gotten this knife wet and I’ve actually crossed rivers with this knife and like in its sheath on my hip, and you know, leave like waters come up into the sheath. You know Gea here, and so the knife has definitely got wet in the sheath. Is the knife that I’ve unapologetically lat get very dirty, very wet and giving it a lot of opportunity to get all nasty and ugly and rusty, but the s35vn has performed very well.

The attention to is to be expected with CPM s35vn or really good. It’s definitely leaving really nothing because, like I was saying the performance of this knife in forced environments, which I certainly have taken it into the forest, a bushcraft is pretty much on par with something like a fall can even a one like. I said, though, the primary reason why I stress this as an island survival knife or as a water survival knife or you know, one that’s going to be in the water – is because the CPM s35vn, unlike vg-10 or the vg-10 laminate, that Faulkner even uses this definitely Output for so vastly before we finish up the review, I also will say the on the sheath I’ll give some notes on it.

I do really love this sheet. It is a very modular sheath. As that you guys have seen in the past. I easily connect my own condor, I pouch to this right up here, but this is a very modular pouch. It has Mali attachment running up the front. It has some webbing attachment areas in the back. The belt loop is really nice. I will say it has a double velcro, so essentially you set your belt in here, and this conforms to your belt.

So if you’re running an inch wide belt, this will walk around that belt. If you’re running an inch and a half to inch about whatever the this will conform to that, and actually we walk your belt in place, which is really nice because on other sheets that don’t have a similar system, I kind of get a sloppy sheath that when It’s on your side or attached to your belt. This sheath will kind of wobble like this, whereas with this and it closes around your belt, it locks your belt in so there’s no wobble, and then you get an extra secure meant like that, and it makes for a really tight securing belt.

So I do like that, and it does come with some extra cordage, of course, is a paracord, but I’ve just left it on here, because it came with it in whatever other than that. It does have a really nice and very secure button closure and just like on some other high-end knives. I have reviewed in the past, primarily, I think, actually just the pull force. Prepper one also have this, but the interior of the sheath or in here isn’t just plastic that rattles and bangs and makes all kinds of noise.

It does actually have a layer of felt in there to keep the knife quiet and keep it from just banging around. In there and being an obnoxious plastic piece of crap, so the sheath places the button fits very tightly. You can see that there is no play in this of a lot of Cheaper sheaths. You’ll see you know, the knife will come out and sometimes even expose a bit of the blade with this there’s. Absolutely none of that this is the most the knife gives and snap is really strong.

This doesn’t just pop on or off. It takes a really purposeful, pull and depend on it’s also very purposeful. So really do like this sheath, it’s actually one of the best stock, sheaths I’ve ever gone and just out of box it’s one of those sheaths that, aside from throwing on a thigh strap, I didn’t want to do absolutely anything to this sheath. I really suggested you guys take a look at this knife because it is definitely interesting and it’s one of the more uncommon choices out there, but I think, is really capable, especially for the money.

It’s a nice survival knife. I really have no complaints about it. Anyways guys, that’s all for now, god bless and come out.


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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3 Pencils 3 Shots (Amazing Compound Bow Accuracy Trickshot #7)

Wish me luck first time I got two of them. That’s pretty good not going to lie. That’s a small target at 15 yards. Don’t try! It again, but I don’t think it’s going to get much better than that really closeup. That’s three! I’m going to count that cuz it moves and you can see I hit it again.

It just got nuts out of the way, but that’s clearly a hit. Where is it right? There see that that’s a hit that one exploded this one knocked to the head side of it right there all right. You know right there, two knocks one blew up. That’s it boys and girls standing at 15 yards hey there. You can see my bow Thanks, see


What are you eating? Check out the video below to find out about a healthy snack.

 

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Knives JMHO

I have recently been involved in quite a few discussions and visual things on knives, and I want to put this in the basic series so that people understand why I choose the types of nice that I choose.

Why. I think that some knives are more favorable over other knives and then also I want to talk to you about things that you see on the internet, about different knives, and one thing that I want you to understand right off. The bat is, if you are reading a review of any piece of gear, it doesn’t matter whether it is a knife or what it is. If you’re reading a review, somebody saying I’m going to review this piece of equipment.

First of all, look at what conditioning equipments in if it’s brand new chances are they’ve, never used it. How can they review it? Number two look at that person’s overall skill level. Have you readed any of their other articles to see what their skill level is? As a woodsman as a bushcrafter as a survivalist, and that would lead you to believe either hey this guy knows a little bit about what he’s talking about or maybe not so much and that’s what you need to understand.

I see a lot of reviews on YouTube and I don’t read many because a lot of times I’d flat turn them off I’ll, be honest with you fi. If I pull up a article, let’s just take a knife review. For instance, if I pull a knife review up on YouTube and the knife looks brand new, I generally shut the article off if it’s laying on a table and it’s not in the woods or the guy’s, not using it to do something with and he’s just talking About the knife, I generally turn it off.

The other thing is, I look to see what the guy’s skill level is, while he’s using that knife, if he’s using it – and I will tell you now that if you take the crappiest bud, K knife on the planet and you put a good sharp edge on It and you take a nice Mora that cost 20 bucks and you put a good edge on it and you take any given knife that meets the criteria that we’re going to talk about, and you sharpen that thing up.

It doesn’t matter if it cost three or four hundred dollars. If you put all three of those knives in the hands of more Skowronski he’s going to make every one of them look like a knife. You’d want to buy because his skill level and his expertise at fine carving and things like that are so precise and so good and so well, honed that he makes it look natural, no matter what he’s using the deal with. On the other hand, if you take that same set of knives – and you put them in the hands of someone of lesser skill level, much less skill level, it doesn’t matter how good the knife is they’re going to make that knife look bad and it could look Like something you don’t want to buy, even if it might be something, that’s very good.

So I want you to think about those things when you’re looking at articles of a knife reviews and things like that, because some of what we’re going to do today is going to be talking about knives right in front of you. Some of its going to be we’re going to demonstrate some things with the knives pros and cons of the different knives. One thing that you will never see me do with a knife and it’s another thing that I turn it completely off as soon as I see it in a article is you’ll, never see me, take a 5 or 6 inch blade and chop with it.

There’s absolutely! No reason to chop with a knife: that’s not meant for chopping! If you want a chopping knife, get a machete get a Chris Kane survival tool, get a goal lock get a poor wrong, get a kakari, get something that’s made for chopping and processing, wood or vines or bamboo or whatever the case may be, but don’t use a 5 6 inch knife to smack around and try to chop with and make excuses that the handle is not long enough or that you need to move it up and choke back and put a lanyard on it.

So you don’t let go of it and get more leverage on the blade. That’s bunk, okay, you should never have to chop with a knife. That’s not made to chop with that. Knife should be used to baton through material or to push through material by using different types of cuts, not swung like some kind of axe or a machete. That’s what you want! That’s what you buy! That’s the next thing that we need to talk about in this article is understand before you buy a knife.

What is that knife going to do for me versus what do I want that knife to do for me and I get a lot of questions from a lot of people about you know: what’s the best survival knife out there? Well, the patented answer to that is the one you have on you in a survival scenario, but that leads you right back to that’s, probably the knife you bought to begin with. So did you buy the right knife and when I look at that, what I want to tell you is, I look at any knife that I’m going to strap to my hip on a daily basis as a survival knife, because chances are that’s the knife I’m going To get stuck with in an emergency because I put it on my hip every single day and I’m not going to lose it so with that said, I need to make sure that whatever knife I’m going to select a carry every day is going to be a Knife that is multifunctional in an emergency scenario.

It doesn’t necessarily have to be a chopper, because a big chopper is not going to be good at fine carving. It doesn’t necessarily have to be great at fine carving, because it’s not going to be very good for batana processing would necessarily it has to be capable of a lot of things. It has to be capable of processing game. It has to be capable of processing wood. It has to be capable of the fine carving, but it also has to be capable of making bigger logs smaller pieces so that you can create things like pencil sized sticks from a 4-inch log.

If you have to or just split things out when you absolutely have to so that knife has to do a lot of things for you and has to cover a lot of bases, if you go back to my article on knives of the frontier or you know, The kind of history of knives that have been used throughout time you’ll see that really the most common denominator is about a five to six inch blade, at least in the United States, about a five to six inch blade and some type of a butcher knife design.

Either a European butchering knife or an Americanized version of a butchery knife or a French version of the butchering knife and those type blade designs, lend themselves well to a lot of different things for the woodsman. That’s why they use them. That’s why they were around four to three hundred years. That’s the reason. Some of them are still made today so understand what you want to do with that knife.

It’s a back up knife that you’re buying you’re going to put your backpack. Then maybe it doesn’t have to be that perfect knife. That’s going to do everything, maybe you’re buying a backup knife only for you know the trap line you’re going to make your money cuts with and you’re going to keep that thing. Razor sharp and it’s going to be a perfect blade for you to make those precision cuts that you have to make not to mess up a fur on an animal, or maybe it’s going to be your bush crafting knife that you’re going to put in your in Your backpack and you’re going to keep that thing with you to do your fine, carving and making feather sticks and doing those little fancy things that we do in bushcraft, but does that lend itself to a good survival knife? Maybe yes, maybe no depends on if it meets the criteria that you decided needs to meet for me.

I have certain criteria that I look at in a knife and we’ll talk about that right now, okay, so let’s get started on our knife discussion here a little bit and let’s talk about it, I’ve got a table or a bench of knives here. Basically, that are all knives that I have personally used over and over and over and over none of these knives are brand new. All of these knives have been tested thoroughly in a wilderness environment for a lot of different tasks.

So I can tell you, I feel confident that I can tell you what the pros and cons are of these type knives. Now the first thing that you need to think about when you’re selecting a knife is again back to what is that knife going to do for me versus what do I want it to do for me so for the sake of this discussion, because we’re talking about Basic concepts: let’s talk about this is the knife I’m going to strap to my tip, and this is the knife that I’m probably going to end up with.

If everything goes bad, I lose all of my gear that knife is going to be shot to my hip and it’s going to be my only tool that I have to use to affect my survivability and there is a big difference between that and a bushcraft knife That you carry in your pack as a spare where you put it around your neck or where the case may be totally against putting knives around my neck, but that’s beside the point: okay, so blade thickness.

That is your first key element to me. A knife that’s going to be used for a multitude of tasks needs to be 3/16 of an inch thick at a minimum. I do carry knives personally that are only 1/8 of an inch thick. This three dollar butcher knife from a yard sale is only a little over an eighth of an inch thick. It’s not quite 3/16. So if I had to measure it, you know it’s right in between there, but it doesn’t quite meet my minimum standard.

Although I’ve used this knife for everything under the Sun, so I’m pretty confident that in its ability to sustain me, it needs be this butcher. Knife is 3/16. This is the habilis Pathfinder butcher knife it’s 3/16, so 3/16 is a good thickness to start out with now. Let’s talk about why not at 8:10, it’s okay! Because generally what you’ll find is most knives will be 1/8 inch 3/16 and then quarter inch 1/8 inch.

Knife is going to have a lot of flexibility in it if the metal is tempered correctly and it may Bend on you or snap on you, depending on again the temper of the knife. I’ve never broken an old hickory butcher knife and they’re eighth of an inch thick. So an eighth of an inch knife can do the job for you, but it’s not going to be near as rigid or good for prying. If you have to do things like that, that’s 3/16, so there’s a little bit of a trade-off there.

I would say my personal opinion is 3/16 for beginning knife, though it’s going to be the one night that you buy to keep on your hip, and this is where you’re going to put all your eggs. Okay, in my opinion again, this is just my opinion. Your knife should be your most expensive item in your kit for the most part, or you should have the majority of your budget set aside for your knife, because that’s what you’re really going to stake your life on with that knife, you can’t do everything else.

If you have to as long as you have the skill level now remember during this article, there’s I’m not talking bad about any knife makers, I’m not talking about about any people who review knives on TV on on YouTube or use knives on TV. All I’m saying to you is: these: are my standards? These are the knives that I choose, and this is why you can make your own decision from what we’re talking about once we get beyond the thickness of the blade, then we need to talk about.

The tang is a full, tang, absolutely necessary. In other words, is it one piece of solid metal that the scales are both the two on both sides? Almost all of these knives, all of these knives are full tang, the knives I have over here or not again. I go back to if I’m going to get stuck with this one, and I have no other tools. I may have to do things like prying, hitting hard on the back of the spine, with a baton of some sort to process firewood.

All those types of things lend themselves to a weakness in a rat tail Tang knife, because it’s smaller, it’s not like that rat tail, tangs the same thickness, the 9 and 3/4. The way back to handle, generally speaking, a rat tail tang knife is exactly that. It shrinks down to a rat tail and then goes back into the knife, so that is a weak point in the overall structure of that knife. That could compromise you in a real emergency situation.

So I choose again: I choose to always carry a full tang knife on my hip and that’s my personal opinion. So all of these knives are full tang. Now, backup knife could definitely be a non full tang knife, and most of my backup knives generally are non full tang. We’ll talk about that in a few minutes. The next thing that I want to know on this knife is – and here again this is the these. Some of these things are kind of go no-go for me.

I can live with eight-inch if I have to I’d rather have 3/16, but there’s certain aspects of that night that I can’t live without or I’m not willing to do without. One of them is that that knife has a very sharp a 90-degree spine on it, so that it will effectively remove material from a ferrocerium rod, and there is a big misconception out there about ferrocerium rods and knives. Most of the time, if you’re having problems striking your Ferro rod, it’s not the rod, it’s the knife.

So what I’m going to do is I’m going to take a couple random knives here for you, I’ve got several different feral rods from cheap $ 5 Ferro rods. All the way up to $ 50 Ferro rods and we’re going to strike them with a knife and you’re going to see that, for the most part, they’re the same. Ok, so what we got here is we have a variety of ferrocerium rods. This rod is just a cheap rod, probably off of our website and the handle of been yanked off of it.

It’s been wrapped in duct tape. To give me a good heavy-duty handle most of the feral rods that you’re going to buy – and I say most not all most of the feral rods are going to buy. The handles are going to come off of them eventually sooner or later anyway. So I just take mine off on these cheaper ones and I wrap them in duct tape, so I’ve got an element of fire wrapped around it. An emergency plus I have this.

This duct tape is for no other use except a handle or fire. I carry duct tape, my kit for other things. On this side, I have arrived from Canton shop, comm, Rob Simpson spare rod, I’m very fond of these they’re good feral rods, they’re a little bit more expensive than wrapped in the leather. I think they come from deeply handcraft, I’m not sure that and they’re very good, fair rod to stick inside your knife sheet.

That’s what you like to do. This is a cheapie like a Coghlan model, ferrocerium rod. This is the Bob spark from fire. Steels calm. This rod is just a long blank fire rod that was made by one of my instructors, that has a copper, butt, end glued or epoxy Don and pinned in that’s filled with lead on the backside. So they can be used for a Bopper for napping, whether it’s for your flintlock or whether it’s for making arrowheads out of glass or flint, whatever the case may be.

It also gives you a good handle to hold on to and a large striking surface to remove material into your tinder bundle again. Cost difference is a lot here. You’re talking this one in this one are probably five bucks or less this one’s around 2025. This one’s around 2025 – I believe these things are around 40 50 bucks, so you’ve got a big difference there, but the bigger the rod is the longer it’s going to last.

A lot of guys ask me about this blocks of magnesium, with a little bitty rod going across the top of them. Those things are useless, in my opinion, you’re going to wear that rod out long before you ever get rid of that magnesium, and most all of your ferrocerium rods have a heavy content of magnesium in them. Already that’s going to burn if you can’t remove the material with your blade, that’s the important thing: it’s generally, not the Ferro rod that causes you the problems, it’s the blade.

Okay, I’m going to use a couple of different knives to do this stuff with first one. I’m going to use is the Pathfinder knife. This is made by blind or snobs. It’s called the PLS k1. The Scandinavian grind 3/16 own inch a little over a five-inch blade. This one happens to have curly maple handles on it. It has a good, sharp, 90 degree spine. So let’s try this one. First on just a cheapy rod. Now, that’s just as cheap II $ 5 rod.

Here’s the cheapy one off my website! You can see it’s removing enough materials! Hang it up on the back of the knife. Even here is the gob spark. Okay, canteen shop comm got to get the coating off of it. Okay. Now I’m going to show you what just happened here. The cap just came off of this. The leather coiled cap. Just came off of this. I’ve never seen that happen to one of these fair rods. Before that it goes right back to what I was telling you almost any fair rod you buy.

The cap is going to come off of it unless it’s pin through it’s going to come off, just wrap it with tape and go on and don’t worry about it. If you’re looking for something fancy, looking do yourself a favor make sure you got some duct tape with you when you get done here is the large barrel rod again, we’ve got to get the coating off of it once we get the coating off of it. It shouldn’t take a whole lot of effort when you do this.

If your knife is good 90-degree spine on it, it won’t take much effort, so you can see that all of those barrel rods will work just fine with that knife. Okay, this is the more of bushcraft black. We haven’t talked about this knife, yet it’s not a full tang knife. It is high carbon steel, which means it’s going to rust. If you don’t take care of it, but it’s going to be easier to sharpen in the field than stainless.

I prefer a high carbon we’ll talk about that a little bit in Y on our next exercise. But let’s look at what this will do and again it has that good 90-degree spine. So, let’s start with our cheap e Ferro rod here, pretty good the other cheap e Ferro rod, pretty good gob sport real good, the long heavy-duty one real good, the canteen shop. Pretty good! Ok, so you can see that as long as we have a good 90 degree, spine doesn’t really matter whether the knife cost 30 or 40.

Bucks like this one, we’re close to $ 300, like the Pathfinder knife, they’re going to do what you need them to do with the Ferro rod and that’s the important characteristic to understand. Will this knife be good for striking a ferrocerium rod every time I see someone take their knife and strike their ferrocerium rod with the blade of their knife? I know that person doesn’t know what they’re doing, because I’m never going to sacrifice my knife blade to strike a Ferro rod.

I can always use the back of this or I can find something else. If I can’t do that, but I’m never going to sacrifice my blade, this area of your blade from here to here from this curve back, is going to do. Two-Thirds of everything you do with this knife will take place right here. We’ll talk about that. A little bit too ok, so that gives us a pretty good look at one of the things that we want, our not to be capable of which is striking our ferrocerium rod.

A ferrocerium rod, in my opinion, is the most reliable fire-starting device you can possibly have in an emergency scenario. Matches are a one-shot deal, lighters run out of fluid and get wet all of those types of things. You need to concentrate your efforts on understanding how to use a Ferro rod with lots of different tenders, because a Ferro rod there is a very, very hot spark that will light up a lot of tender and it works even when it’s wet get yourself as big.

A Ferro rod as you can find that you can afford in the long run and carry that with you as your main ferrocerium rod. Alright. Moving on the next thing that we want to look at is the steel that this knife is made out of everything that I do with this knife has to be a multifunctional deal. Obviously, I can do a lot of things at this knife as far as making other things, and that makes it multifunctional, but it also needs to be part of my kit as far as being useful for at least three, I need to be able to start fire With this thing, as one of those chores or duties of my knife, and by scraping that ferrocerium rod that takes care of that element, but I would also like for my knife to be able to throw sparks from a hard rock in case.

I would lose my ferrocerium rod for some reason and all I’m left with is this knife if I can get a fire built somehow, because I made a bow drill set with my knife, I don’t want to have to go through that hassle, the second time. So if I can make char cloth in that first fire thinking ahead to my next fire and I can find a nice hard rock, I can use that to create an ember, then put in a bird nest and forego the whole bow drill.

Action on the next fire, so I want this knife to be made out of high carbon steel so that it will throw sparks off of the spine with a hardrock high carbon Steel’s. Oh one tool: steel 1095, while the Condor knives are made out of a 10 65 1070, not really enough carbon in them to throw a good spark. You see, there’s no Condor knives on this table, not because I’ve never used one, but because it’s not a knife that I would carry all of the time.

So if you’re going to ask me about other knives – and you don’t see it on this table – it’s because I either haven’t carried it, don’t carry it or I have carried it and don’t like it and don’t carry it anymore. These are the knives that I trust. Okay, so let’s talk about striking sparks with the back of our knife. So again, what we’re trying to accomplish here is turning our knife into an ignition source and we can do that as long as we have that high carbon steel blade.

So, let’s pick up, first of all, we’ll just pick up this butcher knife, what I’m going to do with my knives when I’ve decided I’m going to buy one. Is I’m going to do this first that thing’s throwing sparks I’m a happy camper? Now I know I got a good high carbon steel blade for sure. Even if I have no idea what this thing’s made out of yardsale three dollar butcher knife looks like carbon steel, it’s rusting up.

It’s got some patina to it. Let me take a rock to it: okay, now, I’m in business, does it have a good 90-degree spine on it yep now in double business. This is the right thickness. It’s pretty close as I got a good nice five to six inch blade on it yep. Okay now want that knife. That’s my factors now any knife that you have that’s high carbon steel and will, in fact, what we’ll do is we’ll get another cheaper type knife out here.

We’ll look at this more on bushcraft black again: does it throw sparks? Yes, it does okay. Is it throwing them as good as the butcher knife, not quite, but that could just be because the blade is like blue and not all this wore off yet, but I know this will start. It will create ignition with char cloth because I’ve done it. So if I have a high carbon steel blade, I’m going to be able to affect cognition that way and I’ll show you how to do that right now, up close, hang tight guys! Okay, so I have a charring 10 here.

It’s got some char cloth in it right here, so we’ll pull that piece of char cloth out and that’s what we’re going to use for this demonstration now, if I’m trying to strike sparks up my knife, there’s a couple ways you can do this, you can hold The knife blade like this and strike it against the rock. Exactly like you would do a striker, but I don’t like that method very well, because I’ve got my knife blade toward my hand.

If something were to slip, I could cut myself if I have to wrap something around the blade. I may not get a good grip on it, so I would rather strike down on the blade to the charred material. So we’ll pull a piece of this charred material off of here and lay it to the side. Real quick just like this, and what I like to do is lay that thing out and get as much surface area exposed as I can to catch my sparks and then kind of tack it down with my knife.

Just like this now I’ll lean my knife backwards. Just a little bit and I’ll strike sparks on to the char cloth, just like that. Okay, that out now, let’s look at the three hollered butcher knife. We’ll do the same thing. Get it out here, pin it down with the blade hold on the handle, push them down; okay, we’re on a fire all right. Now, let’s look at the pathfinder Scout bigger than the Pathfinder pls k, one larger in blade, size and blade length.

This is a six inch blade, it’s a little bit wider and so now the full flat grind, but it does have that 90-degree spine. It is three sixteenths, it’s just a little bigger more of a French trade or butcher knife style design. Alright sparks is going right by here. Here we go. Okay, we got a char cloth on fire, so you can see that a $ 40 knife will do it. A three dollar knife will do it. A $ 200 knife will do it.

It doesn’t matter how much the knife costs it matters, what the physical characteristics and capabilities are of that knife. Okay, so what I want to do now, real quick is: I want to kind to kind of go through some knives with you guys. One at a time show you knives that I trust doesn’t mean that there’s other knives on the market that aren’t good. But again, if you’re going to ask me what I think of this of that.

If you didn’t see in this article, that should give you an indication of what I think about it means I don’t carry it. Alright. Anything by blind horse knives is going to be bone. Anything by hapless bush tools is going to be a good knife. Anything by Moore is going to be a good knife, but it’s not going to meet all of the criteria that we talked about. Some of them are not high carbon they’re stainless, and none of them are full tang.

Alright. So, let’s start off with the Morris. The Mora bushcraft block is by far my favorite. It’s got a nice blue blade. It’s got a three quarter: tang nice comfortable, rubber over plastic handle here high carbon steel, blade, good 90-degree spine the blade on it’s almost a little over four inches long, and for me you know the minimum is about five. But again this is not going to be. My main knife, so it doesn’t have to be five inches.

This is another more. This is the Mora companion, another good knife about half a little over tang, maybe 3/4 rubber over plastic handle. You can see the blades a little bit less robust than the bushcraft block. It’s a little bit shorter, it’s not not as wide and it’s about the same, not quite the same thickness. So this is a heavier knife than this one, but does not cost more than this one. Both of them will do the job.

A knife. I’ve been carrying a lot lately as a backup or carving type knife or bushcrafting is this martini, and this was given to me by one of my instructors: solid rubber handle three quarter inch tang molded over. It’s got a really nice 90-degree spine on it. It’s good and thick it’s over 8 of an inch. It might be close to 3/16 Scandinavian grande. It’s a very short blade. It’s only a little, it’s a little less than 4 inches.

I think so. It’s not going to be a main night for me, but it is a great backup, skinning carving and crafting knife for my pack. This is the habilis butcher knife and this knife was designed directly after this knife. This is a three dollar butcher knife from a yard sale. This is the habilis butcher knife. It was designed and made directly to mimic this knife because we knew there’d never be another one of these come along, so we wanted something that was very close to an 18th century design with 18th century type, handle materials and scales.

This one has one two, three four five six pins on it, so that it’s more period-correct for something along the 18th century lines, solid, hardwood handles. They are flat, as many of them were back, then it does have the Pathfinder logo and the habilis Bush tool logo. On it as well, it’s a nice Scandi grind and scanned effects. It’s got a little bit of a convex grind compound grind at the bottom of the Scandinavian grind.

It’s got a good 90-degree spine on it and it’s made out of 1095 so it definitely meets all the criteria. Definitely a good, robust knife. Okay, now, let’s get 2 BHK blind horse knife a blind horse. Obviously, I’ve had a very, very long relationship with blind or knives they’re. Absolutely my favorite knife company Bar None in the world, their knives have never failed me and everybody. I’ve talked to says if they’ve ever had any issue with a knife that blind horse has replaced.

It without question so any guarantee like that is the guarantee I want they’re fit and finish is perfect. Their shops really nice I’ve been to their shop. So I know what it looks like. I know what the craftsmanship is: good, american-made quality, but again you’re going to pay for american-made knives. This is the Pathfinder Scout, the one that I carry probably 95 % of the time, not because I don’t like the PLS k1, but because this one has a little more versatility for what I do every day.

If I were going to have to choose one knife for an emergency, it would be the PLS k1. That’s what it was designed for. This knife is more of a hunting skinning butchering type knife. It’s got a big 6 H butchering style blade on it. European type. French trade knife style blade, 3/16 heavy heavy spine. Oh one tool, steel, curly maple handles it’s just a really really nice heavy duty knife – and I carried this one quite a bit.

The PLS k1 is the original Pathfinder knife that was made by blind horse knives. Scandinavian grind blades about five and a quarter inches long. It’s got some jimping on the top of the blade here, curly maple handles on this one, like I said, oh one tool, steel, heavy duty, 90 degree spine. This knife will do anything in the world that you want it to do and if you have it in, if it’s in the right hands of the person with the right skill, it can do anything you want to do from fine carving to processing firewood.

This is the muck, the Nemec with the Pathfinder logo, on it that’s made by blind horse Scandinavian ground, Nemec style blade, it’s basically a short butcher knife and I think that’s pretty much what nest Mehcad in mind when you had this knife made. If you look at this knife compared to a larger butcher knife they’re pretty much the same, it’s just shorter and squatty ER than a butcher knife. It’s got that same hump at the top so that it rides high over bone when you’re cutting with it.

It’s good for batani! I like this dished area right here, because that forces a lot of forces a lot of pressure right here to the belly when you’re trying to split wood and things like that with it. So it’s a really really good knife, but remember with any knife you’re going to about this. Much of your blade is where you’re going to do 90 % of your work. You know the before you get to the upsweep on the belly is where you’re going to 90 % of your work.

When I see guys carving, sticks and they’re making points on sticks out here on the blade. I know those guys don’t know what they’re doing, because that area of your knife should be the most pristine area, because that’s what we can use to process game. That’s what you’re going to use from very fine under cuts and notches and find carving tasks. You don’t want to use that for hogging material off to make points on sticks.

That’s what this area of the knife is for. Okay, just a little tidbit there, the nest McKnight’s are really really good. All-Around hunting type knife: this is the blind horse. Bushcrafter great cat part style, design, blade cat part style really designed knife for the most part. It’s got this Inlet in the handle, which makes it really comfortable for your finger. It’s got a nice round grip. As my instructor chair, jamie burly, always says, it’s like a broom handle doesn’t matter how you hold it.

It’s always going to be comfortable in your hand and that’s kind of one of the pluses to this knife for bushcrafting and things like that. It’s got a four inch blade on it. Like I said it’s got a cup art design spear point blade on it. This one happens to have a full flat grind. I think the ones they sell have a hollow grind. I’m not positive of that. Don’t quote me on that, and this one happens to have curly maple handles.

This is a really nice little knife that blind horse makes is the woodsman pro now I’ve carried this knife, not as extensive as I carried the others, but it is a really nice woodsy style design, knife for hunting and trapping, and things like that. It’s just not quite big enough for something to me to be beyond a carving knife or a skinning knife for a one tool, type knife. But it is a very good back up knife for the trapline for hunting for skinning and things like that, and this is called the trapline companion now.

This knife has got about a four inch blade on. This was an accidental knife. This is a knife that was made, another knife was messed up and this knife was ground out of it by Dan at blind horse knives and when he showed it to me, I fell in love with him. The reason I fell in love with it and decided to adopt it as the TLC is because it has a nice hollow grind, which means it’s going to stay razor sharp.

It’s got a nice little drop point right here for skinning and making money cuts on furs and hides, and things like that, and it has that small kitchen knife like feel to it. That makes it great for fine carving tasks and things like that. So for making feather sticks for doing fine under cuts and notches and all those types of things. This thing is like the Morra of the blind horse world, except this full tang and it’s high carbon steel with a 90 degree spine.

So it does everything for me. If it needs to okay, one thing: I want to talk about real quick in this article. As I see a lot of people talking about making feather sticks. How, well is the knife make feather sticks well depends again on how well you can handle the knife, and what your skill level is. A good sharp knife will make feather sticks. Obviously a thinner blade is going to make better feather sticks than a thicker blade.

So you have to understand the limitations of what you have, but even a blade that is 3/16 or thick like the Pathfinder knife. But it’s got a big heavy Scandinavian grind on which makes it really good for processing wood and things like that, and a good heavy-duty tool is not going to be as good for fine carving tasks as say this TLC, or even this martini or Mora, because the Blades are thinner, they have a sharper Scandinavian bevel to them and they’re going to make those fine cuts.

This one is hollow ground, so it’s definitely going to make fine cuts all right, but let’s look at these knives and when you’re making feather sticks, you’re not trying to you, don’t want this thing hanging out on a stump between your legs and you’re, trying to push The knife with both hands – that’s not the way to make feather sticks feather sticks, are a fine finesse, carving task I’ll tell you.

Nobody would complain about that butter. Stick! Okay! Out of a 3/16 inch blade with a heavy scanning grind on it. That is a nice feather. Stick that will take flame very very quickly and that’s the advantage of a feather stick. Is you have increased the surface area and made the material very thin so that it heats up quickly and combust faster, okay, guys? Well, I appreciate joining for this article I turn today.

I wanted to go over my mentality with you or my line of thinking when it comes to noise. I also wanted to talk you a little bit about understanding what you’re looking at when you read other people handling knives using knives, reviewing knives and things like that again. This is not a Bosch on any knife company. It’s not a Bosch on a You Tube reviewer. I just want to educate the people who are reading my articles as to what you should be looking for and be sure that when you read a review on any product, whether it’s a knife or a steel pot that that person has used that item.

And you can’t say that you’ve used an item by taking it to the woods one time or for five minutes or five hours or likely even five days. You need to use and abuse that item before you can really say what is worthiness is to have in someone’s kit, I’m Dave camera at five fire school. I appreciate your views, your support, everything you do for me for my school, for my family I’ll be back. Another article soon as I can thanks guys, you


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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Benchmade 550 Griptilian Review and Use

Please do not forget to comment like share and subscribe if you want to see more awesome, Alaskan content like that right into this review. This is actually the first benchmade night I ever got and it’s been a pretty awesome.

Benchmade I’ve carried it for quite a few years. I don’t really religiously carry it anymore, as there are other options and, of course, being an EDC care reviewer. I try and keep more knives running through the rotation, but this knife kind of is special because it is my first bunch mate and I ever thought, and so that’s why I’ve kind of kept it around and the other reason I’ve kept around is because it is Still, even though it has hateful serrations on it, it still is a pretty capable knife overall, especially in an everyday, carry setting, and so once again does, unfortunately have serrations, but back when I was first getting this knife.

If I was kind of one of those kids at that time, I really liked the whole black blades and serrations, and all that kind of fancy stuff that really it was kind of a trend of being cool. But the trend didn’t really last because practically plain edges just end up being better overall, so yeah. That is, but it’s basically why this one has serrations on it and, as you guys will notice, I tried my hardest.

It still was a little bit hard, but as I was processing up that pizza box of an awesome pizza company, I was trying to actually split some of the testing between just the straightedge in just the serrations. It is a little bit hard because this blade is not the longest blade, and so it can be a little bit difficult when you’re trying to kind of slice through something to just keep it on just the serrations or just the blade.

And I also did a little bit of intermixed, so you know if you’re just a straight slash right through that cardboard, you’d first catch the serrations and then the plain edge, so there’s going to be a little bit of. But I wanted to kind of show you guys what it looked like with just the plain edge and what it looked like with just the serrations. I will say I think the serrations had a bit of an easier time with part of the cardboard.

I think they might be a little bit better and of breaking up the cardboard fiber kind of just going right through it. So partially serrated blades aren’t entirely bad, but they definitely are not my favorite. They do have some batter applications such as fibrous materials like cardboard and especially ropes. Serrations tend to go through a lot faster, but at the same time they can be a little bit harder to maintain and overall, I think they kind of just don’t look that good.

Anyways, so my overall experience with this knife has been, for the most part, really good. I’ve really enjoyed this knife and there’s a reason other than this. Just being my first bench made why this knife has stuck around with me for the past, like five or six years, bunch mates, really it’s just an overall great knife. Now I currently have this one on a lanyard, because I don’t really like the benchmade clips, and so I thought I would just run this one on a lanyard.

I don’t run it that frequently that one I do occasionally run this knife. I kind of like to mix it up and just kind of throw it in the pocket and just kind of run it that way, because every once a while I do enjoy a lanyard knife instead of one that has a pocket clip on it. So that is how it’s running as far as retention or in the pocket carry as far as overall organ of expulsion, a far n handles there, nothing special it’s just like a plastic handle and you can definitely tell they kind of feel a little cheap.

But at the same time that that cheapness does pay off, because these knives are still pretty affordable for what you’re getting and so that the cheap material and the handles helps you to have a better blade material and a higher-quality knife at a lower price. So I really can’t complain about the material as far as the material does go. It has to to test the time and I’ve abused the knife quite a bit and accidentally like dropped this knife in the closed position.

Thank the Lord on things like stone and rock, and it has a few gashes in the handle to prove of that, but the handle hasn’t shattered or it hasn’t really cracked in any ways, though other than that the for the most part, the ergonomic still pretty squared Away this is not really a tactical knife, but it could be used in that way. You do have jumping back here for your thumb, and so it could. I will say I don’t know if the 550 having a kind of reverse sheet foot blade, is the best option for a tactical knife, because it’s not the absolute most pointy, because your tip is kind of downward sloping.

Certainly not like another knife. That’s similar like this. One and the primary reason why the nsync Oh grind is so much better at penetration is because Chris breeze has actually gone in and put cuts on the both of the top to both sides of the top of this tip and helped thin out the overall blade Material here and put a false edge on the top, so it kind of AIDS in penetration, so that I will say is why that downward sloping tip on the nsync.

Oh grind works so well, but this one obviously does not have that so other plate features that I do really enjoy are not the serrations cuz. I don’t really enjoyed those, but I do actually love the opening hole. I am a big fan of Spyderco knives. I wish I could have more of them, but right now only have one of them in the current collection, and even though I only have one, I still love all these Spyderco whole opening knives and including when benchmade put a spider hole hug their knives, regardless to How controversial that is or isn’t? I still really enjoy that? I really do like that, and I, like that, a lot more than 5:51.

I believe it is the one that just has the thumb studs, which is not bad. I have a few thumb stud bench maids. This one included and the 5d sexes – and so some studs are not the worst thing in the world, but I kind of like these whole openers more, but I do like the the whole overall. It also kind of lightens the blade stock a little bit more and as far as the 5d justify 50 goes, I do like the blade shape a little bit more.

This one is in a black. I forget the coating that they use for this, but, as you guys can see, this one has been heavily used in a bit abused on the tip and it definitely has a bit of a we’re on this coating. But for the most part, this coating is a pretty tough black coating and it’s not too tacky. I know some people don’t like st coatings, because they’re really tacky and this one just like any coating – does have a bit of tackiness to it.

But for the most part it is overall pretty smooth and, like I said within reason, pretty durable – I mean most of this tip kind of we’re here has happened when I actually stabbed this knife into some tin cans. This was really early on and I stabbed this knife into some tin cans to like make a Hobo, stove air or a couple Hostos actually, and that’s what actually primarily wore off this coating was that contact with the tin can on this steel, just kind of tough To clothing right off, so that’s a pretty and good abuse to take the coating off.

So I’m not too surprised to cody wore off when doing that, and then on the back of this, I also induced this knife quite a bit for striking feral rods, because it does have a pretty sharp back on it. So the back of this knife is actually the coating is pretty beat up because I’ll use it a lot to strike Ferro rods. As far as the lock goes, this is, of course, an axis lock and I love axis locks. If you guys haven’t noticed, I have or have had a lot of bench maids in the collection, and that is on purpose.

I do really love benchmade axis locks in particular, so overall I really loved their axis. Lock, it’s a fun lock to use. I really have a knife that smooth without a bit of side to side place so like these types of knives will have. You know just a little bit of side-to-side play, but that’s that’s because they’re so smooth or if I said over all up and down play is absolutely nothing and very solid lockup for six years and I do go in and I kind of clean this one every Once in a while, when there’s kind of dirt built up on the actual axis lost, because acting kind of at times hinder your lock up, but that’s about all, I do, for it blade centering for anyone who cares this one’s actually pretty well centered.

Now, on to the actual blade, as far as it goes and at retention, this is, of course a 154cm version, so this isn’t anything special. I know they’ve made some like s30v CPM, 20v blades and higher-end Steel’s for the grip, Tilian and I’m sure those work just like CPM, s30v, normally works or just how CPM 20v normally works in itself, but the 154cm on this works pretty well. I did get one off knife of a bench made barrage that I still have, which was my second bench made – that I think they over heat treated, because that one is really hard to put an edge on.

But I have a few, a CPM or not CPM but 154cm from bench made and they overall they don’t hold an edge forever, but they do sharpen up pretty fast and pretty easily this one included and it holds an edge for at least an amount of time. It’s not the most amazing steel, but it’s definitely better than something like 440 C or even vg10. In my opinion, and so edge retention is pretty good in that regard, the overall blade on this.

I think I would have enjoyed a lot more had it been a plain edge and I do actually really like the 550 in-plane edge. This serration version. A serrated version is not the worst in the world. It definitely in an EDC. Type of format does perform pretty. Okay, like you, can see how well the serrations weren’t able to chew through, like cardboard once again, rope things like paper. It kind of struggles with because there’s just so many angles of contact with a serrated blade that it can cause the paper or thinner material.

So you’re trying to cut to kind of like crinkle instead of just slicing right to brew it other than that. Like I said, I really don’t have any complaints, I find the blade length to be just fine for most EDC tasks. Personally, I’ve always been more a fan of these kinds of more wider and larger blades, so like with this 940 here you can see how kind of like pencil then this 940 is and some people they love just having like a really thin blade, but I tend To like knives that are more like that they’re Tilian here and more like this Sebenza that have more kind of width to them to just overall, they seem like larger, more well-built nice.

It’s not does it. This is not a well-built knife. I’m sure this is but this overall kind of gives more of a just feel like you’re, actually holding more of a knife, and I kind of like that in a knife personally and that’s more aesthetics, so anyways, that’s basically all I have to say on the bench Made 550 grip Tilian with this awesome, lanyard mod that I did to it and that’s basically all I have to say on it.

As always, god bless and I’m not


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Our Complete Everyday Carry Knife Collection Part 1… Gear Banter Ep.2

I would take you guys over just the entire collection of all. We have four different pocket knives and also neck knives. Slash this isn’t really a neck knife, but it’s a folding belt knife, so these over here we’ll be getting into in the second half of this article.

But these are the first half of the article, and these are all the pocket clip knives so and as a pocket clip on it is going to be the knives we’re going to be going over and we’re going to be starting off with the lowest valued knives. Over here and in this first rope here is all the lower valued knives and then all the higher valued knives are on this upper row here. So that’s how we’re going to be taking a look at, and hopefully you guys enjoy, taking a look at all of these awesome knives and you guys can get some ideas to add to your knife collection and we’re going to be giving also a commentary of what We think about each of these knives, both of us because, like I said this is our joint collection, even though I technically got everything but technically it is also her collection, as well as mine, anyways, guys, don’t forget to comment like share and subscribe for more this Alaskan awesomeness so anyways guys I’ve got cuffs punch myself to fit into this hole.

I kind of seen, but we’re going to be starting off with this. This is actually an Ozark Trail and this knife, I’m sure received I did not buy, but I know that people like cutlery lover, have done several articles on these knives and they’re, not actually the worst knives out there, especially for being under three dollars. They work pretty. Well and their overall okay knives, but it actually is in my collection, it’s just one of those knives.

That’s often forgotten in the collection, because it’s like I have this and then I have a whole bunch of really expensive knives. So it’s kind of like, and do I really want to carry this? No, because I have like some awesome knives that I would rather carry and take up pocket space cuz. I only have so much pocket space I can afford to use. So generally, they end up with high rent knives, but overall it’s a good knife.

It’s a really good knife for beginners and people who just kind of want to get a knife a knife. This is definitely not a bad one. It has an adequate amount of grip for people who aren’t knife nuts. They won’t really know that you know tip down, carries kind of lame and not really liked in this industry, but the blade centering on this is actually really good and the overall function so long as you don’t use the flip or the flippers really anemic.

If you use the thumb studs, it fires right, improper, but overall, I like it as a good beginner knife. What are your thoughts? My thoughts is that I, like that, it’s lightweight he is right about the flippers like, as you can see it’s just the flipper itself is clumsy. You got ta flick it, but the thumb studs do pretty good, but anyways. I feel like this would be a really good knife for just a younger kid or a low-budget person who just needed a decent knife and, as he said, it’s very cost efficient.

I really don’t know much about this knife, as I was only introduced to it like the other day but like he said he doesn’t carry it much, but I mean I think, for the most part of year she carry them, they’re, really good user knives and what I like about them too, is they’re really great knives to take. If you have a high probability or if you’re one of those people that likes an episode likes but ends up, losing a lot of knives is also a great knife for you, because it’s one of those knives that, if you lose it you’re only out like $ 2.

97, so it’s really cheap and easily replaceable, but that is the Ozark Trail. This is, I forget what this is my thing: they called it like. Those are Trail, flipper knife, something like that and it’s just a very basic name, early generic, but nothing too special anyways. I don’t really have anything in like the twenty dollar region, except this more eldress, that’s about the only twenty dollar knife.

I have the only thing that I really like the next cheapest step up is actually this Boger Kalashnikov and this things around like 50 bucks. I think they are around anywhere from 40 to 50 bucks, depending on which type you get there’s what they make a whole bunch of these different things, but this is a full size over Kalashnikov course. This isn’t Auto and overall I have not had this knife for a super long time, but I’ve really been curious about the kalashnikovs for quite some time and for the most part I like and putting it up against the afk which I’ll get to in a little Bit but anyways, so you know putting it up against the afk as far as fire speed goes they’re, both very hard firing, really nice, not as as far as auto action goes.

Of course, these are both afk and this one are both autos so check with legalities. Before going and purchasing an auto but for the most part, they’re really good knives and this Kalashnikov is pretty good granted. It is an us 8 steel. So I’ll say it’s not the worst thing in the world, but it could be better but yeah for the most part. If this, if I got this knife, I actually got it in a trade, but if I were to buy it, I definitely would not be disappointed.

My thoughts were surprised for such a compared to the afk such a low-end knife, how fast and how hard it actually did fire we put them up against each other this morning and we’re firing them just to see. You know which one came out: first, which and fired the hardest and they’re actually pretty evenly matched so for people. Looking for a low-end, lower, lower end automatic knife. This is actually pretty decent.

I noticed right away when he pulled it out of the box yesterday that it was definitely cheaper. It’s like like the handle grips and everything are not like not like as high-end or as nice. It’s like something on a Spyderco or a bench made ecology, but – and I mean even the steel. If you look at the steel, I mean it’s a little lackluster and it’s it is an Aussie. So it’s under the best in that retention plan overall, the fit and finish I mean it’s definitely a $ 50 knife and it’s a $ 50 on a knife.

So what I mean by that is, when you get an automatic knife, there has to be more to this than in a little flipper like this, there’s actually Springs and the locking mechanism is more complicated. The only other thing I’m kind of slightly concerned about is this pocket clip and because I like it, except for the fact that the metal is like really really flimsy and kind of bendy. I wonder if maybe over time it might Bend out real easily.

But I mean he’s if it bends out easily that it might be easy to fix, but that’s just the only concern I really have, but I guess only times to tell me for me personally I mean I don’t think the retention. Having a lot of experience. I don’t think the retention too bad, I will say as far as bending goes, it could definitely Bend because of its lane. This weakest point is like right up here. This is a very long clip.

If you see even this, Reata has a pretty long clip, but it’s not quite as long as this broker clash d’etat, so it could technically bend, but only time will tell on that anyways. It is a pretty solid knife, but I do like it for me. My pregame expectations before I got the knife were handled it at all. I was expecting to be cheaper than it actually was. I was expecting the firing to not be as good as it is, but this thing actually kicks out pretty good.

So our next knife here is the little tiny spider code dragonfly, and this is a pretty awesome knife for her. I actually really liked the dragonfly for years and years and years and years and years, but now that we actually have one. I have to say I’m glad she likes it, because I really don’t enjoy this knife as much as I thought I would it’s the reason. Why is it’s just too small for me really, I like to have a knife.

That’s kind of like this bench made 5d6 that I mean this for me, is about as small as I’ll go. You can see. I still have just a little bit of room hanging off, whereas with this dragonfly this is it like you’re choked up – and I mean I’m just suffocating the blade – and it’s really small, it’s great for fine, delicate tasks and stuff like that. But I really don’t like the dragonfly, I mean it’s a good quality knife, but for me it just doesn’t fit the bell, so I’m glad that she really enjoyed it because I actually do not like the dragon finds much as you can see.

It doesn’t really give me that issue as much I mean I can hold it back here. If I want – or I can hold it up here on the chipping, the Chim thing. If I want – and you know, I’ve really enjoyed this little knife – it’s it like. You said it’s really good for delicate work. It’s really good. It’s really really sharp. I was surprised for such a little knife. How sharp it is. It’s wicked, sharp, great it slicing and it is really great a slicing, very clean slicing.

I often carry one other all-purpose knife with this knife. This is just for smaller things. I wouldn’t want to use it for bigger, all-purpose tasks, but for a little tiny, itty-bitty things I always go to the Dragonfly and I’m really pleased with it. It was probably the best Christmas gift I’ve ever had they also. I also like that, it’s so lightweight, but it’s also like for being lightweight and so small.

It’s also really sturdy, there’s absolutely no play and whatsoever, and it is I mean it’s lightweight, because it’s small, but I mean you can tell it’s it’s good quality because it has a little bit of heft to it and I’m also really pleased with the pocket clip. I haven’t had any issues with the pocket clip at all yeah, that’s good, why your pocket clips from Spyder go! So do I – and I will say I will give it some credit to for being so small, this bi-directional patterning patterning that they have on these and Endura delica.

All those is a really great pattern. It’s really grippy so now onto the Centofanti by Spyderco, and this is another one, that’s newer for me, and this is another knife that I’ve kind of looked at for a long time and thought about getting. But honestly, this little Spyderco logo. Here is what honestly drove me away from this knife for a really long time, so I thought it was gaudy and it was really stupid.

I was like why Spyderco why I mean I would actually like the lines of this handle just fine if they would remove this Spyderco logo, but either way. Once again, this is another knife I got in trade, so I’m not complaining. I I definitely had the option to get this knife. This is one that I chose for sure and I do, for the most part, really enjoy it oops, but for the most part I actually really like it.

It’s a very, very lightweight knife, and it has a just about as thin blade stock as the Dragonfly. So what that leads to is a really really thin slice iikind of knife, and it does a really good job. Of course, it uses the same vg-10 as made in sake City, Japan, just like the dragonfly in the Endura and the matriarch and all those knives. So it’s really nice quality, even though it does not have screws in it.

Unlike these other two knives here, it has just fine lockup and everything really does not need to be tuned. So sometimes people freak out when there’s not you know screws in their knives like this or like this. People want screws, so they can take it apart. But for the most part realistically, we’re not really taking these knives apart. So I’m not that concerned about the pin together construction as some people might be, but for the most part this is definitely more of an elegant knife.

You can see that this is basically the inter handles, so this is basically an enduro looks like the most part, so it looks more like a user type of knife. This is more of like your high-end kind of or not as a high-end, but there’s more of your elegant knife or if you want a gentleman’s carry this would definitely fit that role and I think you’re really capable knife. That’s thin slice II. It could even go into a little bit of defensive, because this tip here does have a non destroy sharpened, but definitely false edge or kind of swedge on it that definitely helps penetration.

We only got this knife day before yesterday. I think it’s fairly new. I haven’t really gotten a lot of experience with it, but I do look forward to using it more in the future. I’m liking the chipping here right here. You know I mean there’s not a whole lot of grip on the handle like there is on these, but it’s not horribly bad. I mean it fits pretty comfortable, but it’s like I’m glad. I have this.

You know but anyways. I really liked how it looked when I first saw it us like it’s very elegant. It’s very gentle man, although the funny part is for pound for pound. This is almost as heavy, if not heavier than this, which I find kind of flares, but this is definitely just an elegant, thin knife and honestly, I don’t mind the Spyderco. Maybe it’s because I’m a girl – and I don’t care if it looks gaudy, because it really does not look that it doesn’t.

Look that bad. It just looks like in comparison to this and or a handle and like I like this kind of low profile. It’s not really a guy’s name. I got you a ton of that. It’s just like shiny silver. Looking and you know, but anyway, I like this knife and I thought it was cool to add another Spyderco to the collection and, if you solved probably, but you haven’t over here – someone’s close fighters, ironically also in arachnophobia in real life.

But seriously, though, this is not a really, this is not a bad knife and I wouldn’t mind carrying it. I’m going to carry it more. Like I mentioned with the Dragonfly, I like to have another all-purpose knife on hand, and I might try this for a while and see how it goes and I’ll keep you guys updated, but I’m pretty excited about using definitely reviews to come on all of these knives. That have not been reviewed.

None of these knifes here have been reviewed reviews to come on all of these – probably not this one, but now that one’s been reviewed and reira viewed and featured over well, I guess not a lot of overviews, never really any reviews, but anyways now to the Spyderco Matriarch and this matriarch to with wave feature, of course, lots of wetness on this thing, but anywho. So this is the matriarch, and this there’s not a whole lot to talk about.

This is really more of a defensive option than it is a knife, but really ashley is more to Santa cuz. I have not really carried this thing or messed around with it too much because really been her light. I carry it constantly and he hardly gets any time in edgewise because well, that’s because that’s really you need it more than me, because I can’t gotten some more, but not not recently, all maybe a little bit but not in days to come.

Anyways guys. I really am pleased with the matriarch, like I’ve said multiple times before and like he just touched on now. I do not use this for any all-purpose work. This is strictly for defense, but I’m really glad I have it. I’m continually impressed with the different ways I found. I can carry it the different ways. I can find activate the wave feature and snap it out really quick and bring up to slash and everything.

It’s like it’s just a one-time deal kind of knife. It’s like that! Commercial – and I don’t remember what company it is, but it’s like we hope you never need you, but we’re there. If you do, you know this is that kind of a knife, but I just am continually impressed with just how beautiful and savage it is, but also how effective it is, and I on one hand, I’m kind of curious to test it out. But, on the other hand, I really don’t want to go that route anyways guys.

That’s really all I can say about the matriarch, because it’s holding up like a champ and I’m really really pleased to have it. It’s a real, really great knife. It has a lot of the same awesome ergonomic features that sound like the dragonfly house, with the bi-directional patterning patterning and overall it will not slip onto your grip. I don’t that’s a really nice thing. That’s a good thing so now on to possibly one of my most loved knives on the table, or at least it was just kind of being replaced a little bit, but this is the benchmade 56 and this has been a really daily workhorse.

For me. For many years it’s only recently kind of been just a little phased out. Obviously we have a huge rotation here, so we we try and rotate everything in, but the most parts not getting as much pocket time, but it’s a really great awesome, just small folder. Once again, this is about as small as I like to go, but when I want a small folder, that’s super capable, because the blade length or the blade to handle ratio is really good.

On this knife. Benchmade took advantage of having a lot of blade to handle on this, and so that makes it a really small knife. We had a really really capable knife and not saying that I just love every time I use this knife. It feels like it’s actually a larger knife than it really is because the capabilities of the blade, the way it penetrates into things and just slices open boxes and all that awesome stuff.

I do want to note that I have modded it, of course, to have a deep, carry clip and I got another one, because this knife has a deep carry clip, and now this one has to have a deep carry clip, because I swear the deep carry clips. If you guys don’t already know they’re like a necessity on all bench maids, so if you want definitely ask benchmade because they’ll hook you up with them, but that is the only thing I’ve done.

It’s really. I love that deep character because it buries the knife and composite. I lovingly nicknamed this knife, the survival kit nice, because when I was first introduced to it, he had it in either one survival kit or another anyways. I’ve used it a little tiny bit, not a whole lot, but I’m pretty pleased with it. I mean I like the dragonfly a little bit better, but it’s a pretty good knife. I like benchmade as well.

I do recommend the deep carry clip a good all-purpose. It really is it’s. It’s coral, that’s all! I got to say about that. Ok, so now I’m moving on to the full size grip. This is actually my first bench made in my oldest bench made and I really love this thing. This is the zero fighter that 0:50. This is the 550 by benchmade and its really awesome knife. Of course, this one is just rock no lanyard for just a different style of carry.

It doesn’t really have it has a pocket clip, but it’s not on this knife, but this one. I don’t carry to it too much anymore, because it’s just a real beat-up Knight this one and the one I’m about to show are like my beater knives are kind higher-end beater knives. So I take it out for what you will, but these are knives that see a lot of use and they’re moderately expensive both of these that one more expensive than this one, but they’re really just good all-around workhorses.

And if, once again I wanted knife that is reliable and I know I can thump on or I know I can really put it into a serious situation – it’s not going to because that’s kind of like this knife right here. It’s like, I don’t know how much it can take. It’s a nice knife to go for for a beater, but it also may fail on you, whereas these two knives are really solid and I know they’re not going to fail on me so anyways don’t have a whole lot to say um.

This is just a really awesome workhorse. Of course, I got this one when I was new to knives and thought blackened. Serrations were really cool. Now I’ve kind of changed, as you guys can see, with like straight edge straight edge, straight edge straight edge. Even this is a straight edge. Everything tends to be a straight edge nowadays, except a handful of knives. This one, this one and this one are the only serrated ones I believe on this table, but overall, it’s a really great workhorse from what I’ve been told.

It seems like this knife is held up pretty well, because I mean he’s been carrying it for a lot of years. I don’t have really an experience with this knife, except for just messing with it a little bit in the house or whatever, but it reminds me honestly when I saw the black blade in the serrations. It was like an automatic you because I had a Gerber and it was the worst knife I ever had and it was blacked out with the serrations, and I saw this and I’m like ill, no way bro what the heck.

What what is this? What is this dratted, but honestly, benchmade and Gerber back then? I didn’t know the difference which is astronomical. I didn’t know that benchmade is such an amazing brand and that Gerber is just well trashed, so anyways guys. I think I got ta say this is the most unique knife on the table because of its blacked-out blade and serrations, and because of its lanyard and setup a clip and because, if it’s green handle, but it’s it’s a pretty cool knife.

I’ve I’m, like I said: I’ve never really used it, except just playing with it a little bit, but as soon as that gets held up pretty well and, like you said it’s a beater, it’s the true beater with the heater. Possibly this is probably the most beat knife on the table. This one I still really liked, and it’s a pretty awesome knife for those who don’t know this shape. This is obviously a micro tech, SOCOM Elite.

This is an old, it’s very beat-up, it’s very, very beat-up, but it’s a 2006 micro tech, SOCOM Elite, obviously a manual action. They do make some of these in auto, but this is a manual action d2 blade, and this is basically my high-end feeder, because I know this one’s not going to fail. It’s been around forever, like this thing’s been around eleven years now, and it just works really. Well, obviously, serrations on it – and this is a chisel grind blade that has a lot of its coating missing and all of its coating missing on this hikes.

It’s been resharpen a handful of times, as you guys definitely see, but it’s a tanto as well as actually, I think, the only tanto on the table unless you count like this. They kind of say that this is a modified can tell. But aside from that, if you count like this is the only true tanto blade on the table, but it’s a really awesome knife even is in its beat form. The grip on this and ergonomics are still really superb.

It’s an excellent knife for being a liner-lock and yeah. It’s just a really great workhorse knife. Now, the only thing I really don’t like about this knife is just like this one. It is a tip down. Carry I really don’t like tip down carry knives. It’s just. I mean you guys can see the pattern on this table. This is this one. In this one are legitimately the only two tip down carry knives on the table.

So all of my experience and real preference comes from tip up carry, so it kind of feels weird when I first saw this knife. The first thing that popped in my mind was like Matthew. You need to ask the guy how many people have you killed with this thing, because we were, we were supposing all kinds of cool stuff like? Oh, maybe it was an Iraq deployment knife and it very well may have been, but the person we bought it from didn’t, use it much so whoever he got it from probably did what I like the most is little handy-dandy glass breaking carbide tipped glass breaker.

This is a micro tech and micro Tech’s like to have glass breakers on their knives, but both of those are carbide temptin, but we’ll get to this one in a little bit, it’s a little bit of a different life anyways guys. This thing is pretty cool. To look at it, it’s it’s really really beat-up I mean I noticed from the picture and i’m still new to my gear. Even I noticed it’s like holy mackerel. It is missing steel, it has been sharpen and resharpen and research really the age of this thing in its a low production numbered Microtech, so call my lead, keep on to call it ultra tech, but to SOCOM elite manual action from 2006.

I was like this thing’s awesome, even those really beat to hack, I kind of wanted a high-end beat to hack night and make no mistake some of you guys out there who are like, oh, that thing’s, probably worth like $ 0. This thing is still worth quite a bit because micro, tech, so calm elites are average around three to four hundred dollars, something this old is like. I mean this was no longer foreigner dodging so beat up, but these things are still very expensive names.

I think before before we wrap this up. The only other thing I don’t like about this thing. Besides the tip up carry is the locking mechanism. Actually, the liner actually hurts your thumb. If you can coil back, if you do it a lot, it will kind of hurt. Your lock is actually will dig into your thumb a little bit over time that kind of rubs it a little raw other than that so life. You don’t play with it too much, so it doesn’t have a lot of play factor in that way, but other than that – and I will say just a quick final note on this – the the lockup is still perfect, there’s absolutely no up down or left/right claimant.

In that lock system, so that’s a real testament to an 11 year old micro tech. That’s been through hell. Thank you guys, it’s at least been through something either that are really crazy. Abusive night knife beating oh no gone like it’s gone through abuse until micro tech. You guys make some really awesome knives that can take just insane abuse and that’s a line. I lost not known known for being strong, so this one is my now manual brush, so this girl carried this for all summer.

She got it wet inside and these spring. So in case you guys don’t know the barrage, it’s generally a spring assist knife, and so the spring in there got rusted out. So when I took some wd-40 to clean out the pivot and make it better because it was running real slow. If you guys noticed in some of the later articles of this being featured, it was running real, slow and it just was not kicking out because a general benchmade spring assist or auto should kick out like that.

He should kick out with all Martin Stern wants and this thing was anemic, and so I took some WD for you, try and clean it up, make it better get some of the gunk out of there and it actually broke the string broke. So I think I’m going to be returning this one to benchmade for a replacement on that also, here’s the springs are stripped. That’s why it couldn’t open it to clean it off ya, wan na screws, aside, krishna and so anyways for now.

For the moment being this will probably return to being a spring assist, but for now it’s actually I’m you know give fairness. This is a very, very smooth, very, very smooth manual folder, but this is a manual bench made barage. So going back to this knife, I really like it. I didn’t carry it much, oh and now it’s locking up, but that’s the only other issue. That’s the flaw this but anyways. I didn’t really carry this knife a whole lot for too long.

I can get it to deploy again. I didn’t really carry it a whole lot. It was a good knife, but I didn’t really really really love it. The ergonomics are just fine, its overall, a really good utility knife, but I don’t know I just ended up liking. My other knives that I would get in just not really carrying this one. I also after a time really dislike to the spring, assist, because I think the spring it made a harder to put it away.

That is true. I did find that it’s actually easier to handle. Now that’s a manual. This was my high end. Beater, you know anyways, yes, I did especially, maybe that’s why I thought the Gerber was such trash too, and it fell apart easily because I was just really hard on knives. I didn’t really know how to take care of them as well. So I am afraid I kind of screwed this knife up and it’s all my fault, but whatever it’s like I’ve learned my lesson, but it’s still a good utility knife.

It’s not the most. Pretty it’s not the most functional as you can, as you saw. It definitely locks up now, but it will probably when it was a spring assist. It was easier to deploy, but it was harder to put away. I don’t know it just needs, it just needs some a little TLC, but it’s still a really good beater. So I enjoyed carrying it for all the time that I did carry it yeah. I also didn’t like the fact that this screw on this side stripped out and it seems like the blade, is over heat treated, so those didn’t really like it.

What makes you say it was over heat-treated it’s harder than has to actually sharpen it, and I have a handful of 154cm blades on this table like this one, this one, this one, there’s probably there’s another one here, that’s 154cm. I think, but if not else then – and I so I have some like comparisons of sharpening things and this one is substantially harder – the shock that these other ones, I’ve necessarily sharpened.

So if I have sharpened these both of these before and this one’s substantially harder to shards, it’s pretty good though it does, but it is harder to sharpen that is anyways forget stropping. I tried so now on to one of my other really favourite knives and a favorite of most people on this EDC planet is the Spyderco paramilitary 2, and this is an awesome knife. I loved it. I got it, of course, because everyone seemed to be ranting and raving on like it should not try this thing out, and it is a really great Spyderco.

This was my first Spyderco and what really led me to loving spider codes, because it’s just such a well put together knife, I loved the interesting lock. I loved everything about it. The s30v blade holds an edge really well, and overall, it’s just a great night. It’s it does everything you wanted to do how you want it to do. For the most part, I will see the only problem – and this is just a running theme with all spider codes is the tips are just very thin and very delicate.

So you don’t want to do any prying or hard work with the tips, because they will always snap, especially in these powder metal Steel’s, because these powdered metals are really really they’re, really really Steph. They don’t like to bend, but I really love the knife. It’s it’s great knife and it finds its way into my pocket more than other knives, so more than other knives. Actually, honestly, that is true.

I kind of traded up the benchmade ROG and I was going for the cĂ©vennes and I carried the spends for a while, but next thing I knew I was carrying the paramilitary 2 and I’m actually really pleased with the primarily military two. I saw the difference immediately between this and the barrage. It was a lot easier to handle for me and it was easier to do everyday tasks with it and cut with even sharpen and strop it and number things I’m going to be running the Centofanti for a while, but I’ll probably end up coming back to this Puppy right here, if he doesn’t want to commandeer it, probably one of my favorite worker knives.

Honestly I’ve grown really attached to it. So you can see I can make my Spyderco, but this is like an exceptional. This is this is the best of all of them. I must say, and I’ve been happy with it – just been a really good knife and I was a little bit against it at first, like I said I don’t like the blacked-out blades, but that’s pure cosmetics. It has nothing to do with the actual awesomeness. This one’s.

Actually pretty unique because at the DLC finish, so the black blade doesn’t just wear off it doesn’t and there’s no serrations, I mean if there have been serrations on it. I would’ve been like you yeah, I’m not going to use it. Just like this poor thing right here, okay, so that’s the p.M. Now on to the Reata event horizon, which is this knife. Now we were discussing another article that this thing’s a little bit hard to deploy when it gets cold, because this thing’s all metal.

But this is the UV aught a event horizon, and this is another pretty new addition. Overall, I really like anyways guys, like I was saying if I were to it’s just not my knife of choice. If I were to go for an automatic I’d, go for this one instead because it’s lighter and it has a cleaner blade, even if it is cheaper, but as you guys as I’m going to demonstrate in a moment these both fire about the same so so anyways Guys, that’s that’s that button locks and everything, but yeah um, I’m just really not I’m just really not um a huge fan of the yeah afk.

But that’s that’s! That’s not that’s just me style. So now on to my personal favorite. This is kind of like a grill knife. For me, too, this was the night that I really really wanted for a very long time and it’s once again all these auto knives they really freak they get frigid. You guys can see that on that first deploy it actually failed to go fully into action. It is sluggish right now, cuz this thing is ice, cold and once again, the grease and oils that go into these autos to make them fire.

So fast are the same things that I’m not killing them in the cold, but this is a micro, tech, ultra tech, and this is a try grip one. I really wanted to try grip because I actually one of those weirdos I’d like to try grip but um, not everyone does apparently, but I really liked this knife and it’s just been a grill knife for me. I really wanted an ultra tech for a very long time and I was able to get one.

I was like awesome, so this is a micro tech, ultratech, tri grip, I’d like to try grab more and it’s no TF as well. So this is also my first OTF. I really want ot F she’s, probably going to try and tell you a story about a avenge made infidel put this thing down because other than there’s just being a really great everyday carry knife. I mean this is one of those knives that it has to be a second kind of cool for you, and I told him I was like I swear if this ends up in your leg, I’m grounding you from that.

Wrapping you in bubble wrap and it’s going to be mine and you’re, never touching it out the front ever again. It’s so far, he’s been very good about not putting it in his leg, going on anyways, that’s the story and it’s a little humiliating, but I think even the best need to fall down a little bit. But I don’t I don’t I’m not a huge fan of the outs of fronts. I mean I think, they’re cool and all, but it’s like they really are not functional enough.

For my taste, I mean besides having a glass breaking and that’s kind of legit. I would really like – and I have to had one of those but the beater but anyways guys. I think it’s cool and I’m glad that he’s really happy with it and I’ll keep you updated. If it suddenly disappears from the face of the earth. It’s because he did something stupid with it, but in fairness, he’s not the only one to have done that the lady at the counter was saying people put them up to their palms, and oh man, anyways guys that stay out the friends.

Don’t worry yeah so now onto another one of my favorite, these top three, no, like it’s probably pretty obvious, but these tops are obviously some of my really really favorites like I love most of these as well, but the next one is the most expensive area spensive. These are all like $ 300 knives buy. This is zt0 552 CF and it’s a big nice. This is actually the largest excluding these knives. This is actually that one too it’s larger than that one.

This is a very big knife, but this is the zt0 52 and carbon fiber and it is an awesome, fantastic flipper. It is just really really smooth flipper, really awesome knife. I really like it. I also one of my things that I wanted was a carbon fiber knife or a knife that had at least a little bit of carbon fiber on it in this one, of course, has a full carbon fiber scale on it, so that makes it really lightweight, but It also has that carbon fiber touch that I really like, because personally I really like carbon fiber, and so my hands are getting so close.

I can’t really do in like so anyways. This is a really awesome. Knife has a full titanium and then a full carbon fiber handle scales on it and, of course, once again s35vn on the blade and just a really really big knife. It’s like tactical, awesome, really love this thing. I’ve been carrying, it haven’t, had a super long time, but it’s another night. I’ve been carrying pretty regularly pretty religiously.

This is actually our newest knife and I thought it was cool I actually when when he was able to get us like yeah, let’s do it. So you guys know we kind of like carbon fiber. I if I were to carry a big knife, because it is so it’s it’s kind of lightweight it’s not as chunky as like the Reata or the egg. I mean for a being a such a huge knife. It is actually light weight and it’s slender. So if I were to carry a bigger knife, it would probably be this one and I actually I’m really impressed with this knife.

I mean it’s what I thought it was beautiful over the pictures. I saw it’s even better in person. I am really excited to get more experience with this knife, and I know he is too as like. It is brand spanking new. We just did we just get it in yesterday yesterday, so brand-new, but anyways guys. This is. This. Is a nice little knife, I’m really excited to get more accustomed to it, and I know he is too and before you guys asked it’s not actually back cold outside.

It’s just we’ve been out here for quite a while filming so our hands, one of them handling these knives. Plus we’ve been doing this for 30 plus minutes, and these are oddities our metal or metal. So it is getting cold. So we’re going to wrap this up here pretty soon now to the classic, really expensive high-end knife, and that is the Chris Reeve knife Sebenza large, the bends at 21. This is, of course, full titanium, just kind of like this one and yeah.

It’s been a really great night. This is one of the knives I’ve had for a very very long time. I think around three years now and overall for the past three years, it’s been a fantastic performer. The only thing – and I have to talk to Chris Reeves about this – that I don’t like is the titanium tip clip bent out a little bit. So it’s retention is a little bit lost and I don’t really know do it’s a titanium clip.

I know what these steel ones you just like, put them in a vise and you bend them back. I don’t necessarily wan na do that to this one cuz, I don’t know how that won’t. Work might do the same thing but anyways. This is a really awesome night, I’m putting it down because it’s once again very cold, just like all these others, and just a really great knife, though, be careful cuz. I know the only thing that was what I was going to say.

The only thing I dislike about this is that the frame lock does not have an overt stop, which means it could be bent out and extended. That would not be good while they’re. In that I mean I haven’t carried it a whole lot, but I carried it a little bit and I really like it. I, like the blade, shape I like how it cuts it’s it’s hefty, I’m not going to deny it, but it’s it’s not that it’s not as have you this one.

I also think it’s funny it’s idaho made, which is where I just was, but this is a a really good knife and from what I know it’s it’s pretty decent. So who do you think I’m just kidding? It’s actually awesome. It’s not! Actually. You do really love that knife quite a bit now once again, because it’s such an older knife. For me, I have a lot of experience so when it comes to these knives – and I don’t have as much experience on a little bit more eager to choose these kinds of knives over that one, because I’ve had that one for years and years I want to Put some more use on these other knives anyways guys hold on hold on when I first met met, met Matthew.

He had this Night Man, so I kind of like this one, the best, maybe out of all of these, because when I see this knife I just remember when we first met, he was showing off all his knives and I was starting to really get out of The ignorant of knives – and you can shrug it off, but it’s important to me anyways. This is a pretty awesome knife and I think we’re going to do the buck in the next article yeah, because we need to wrap this up because it’s been running long.

We’re going to be doing a part two to this, explaining going over the folding sheath knife and then all the net knives, so those are not the pocket knives per se, so anyways guys. This is part 1 of this vlog collection article, but hope you guys have enjoyed it and as always, guys, god bless and we’re out.


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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TOPS I.C.E. Dagger Overview

You is extremely important even more now than after mentioned. There are a few other options and Before we jump into why I chose the ice dagger, I do want to just start off with the importance of having a self-defense tool and why. I think you guys should all have some sort of self-defense tool, even if it isn’t the ice tower in particular.

Now there are many different options I actually have a few. Another notable option is the matriarch by Spyderco matriarch by Spyderco is another great option for how a self-defense tool, but overall you should try to have at all times some type of tool tool on you for self-defense, because this hack can happen at any time. And it’s nice to give yourself an advantage of having even just a small little knife like these.

Now I’ve talked about why I choose knives in the past. I still fully love knives and I take a knife over a gun every day because of the fact that guns, while they are superior to knives in most instances, a gun cannot go everywhere like one of these knives can so that’s the overall importance and why I Just urge you guys make sure you do have a self-defense tool, even if it isn’t the ice dagger go with something like a Spyderco matriarch, just something that you can use to protect yourself now now, let’s actually talk about why I chose the ice dagger now this Has been out for a hot minute: it’s not the newest coolest latest greatest kind of self-defense knife out there on the market, but I was immediately attracted to this knife just for the fact that I wanted something that was very tough, very durable and honestly were a Lot of people prefer something that just has a single blade on it.

I really do like the dagger for enhanced penetration and the fact that I cannot only cut with this knife, but I can also make a deep stabbing and penetrating wound with this knife, and so that’s what it was attractive to the ice dagger. Another reason why I prefer the ice dagger over something like a matriarch is, like, I said, the increased durability and I’m doing some up close shots. Pictures Roland fuller to this, but the ice dagger actually has a reinforced tip.

So the tip the actual, like tip part of this knife from about here forward, is full thickness and it actually retailers down to a point into an edge. So I like about this is there’s no worry about you going in stabbing something in the tip just snapping off on you. This is the type of knife that you can stab into a very hard object or even hit things like bone, and it’s not just going to break off, whereas a knife like this matriarch, which also Roland’s in pictures for you guys, is a very thin, extraordinarily thin.

At the tip and will actually break off very easily if it hits bow and if it hits thick muscle, it’s going to just snap right off, which may be an advantage. It may not. But what I like about this knife is from multiple aggressors, or just even for one likes, that having a very robust tip in a very robust overall build is nice now another thing I have enjoyed about the knife as I carried it and as you guys can See I’ve hard used it a little bit for y’all.

Is I, like the traction on the g10, tops an excellent job on that, especially in the ice pick or reverse grip. I didn’t feel, like my hand, was going to go anywhere. I will say it can be a little bit slick in gloves when you’re doing like a forward thrust. But then again, your thrusts in your anything. Going forward, like this motion kind of thing, isn’t going to have as much power as a reverse grip and what I like about the reverse flip, as you guys can see.

There’S a nice almost Karambit ask ring, so you can leap your thumb into this ring and then close your thumb down like this, and that gives you a lot of positive traction. So if you stab it into something, when you pull the knife back out, you could actually let go of the knife entirely and pull just because if your thumb is caught on that ring, it’s going to pull right back out of whatever it stabbed into so other Than that they have made a few really great cuts in the g10 to make it very aggressive, and it feels really great now.

Lastly, the other reason why I like this knife is, as I said, about the concealed ability. Now you can run this on your belt and that’s another great way of running it. I personally use the neck knife option and we’ll discuss it. The mod that I had to make with it, because you guys will notice the sheath is a little bit different looking, but we’ll discuss that in just a minute, but overall, with the fact that this has very flat thin g10 handles and the knife itself bolts thick Enough not to be weak, it’s also not a very thick knife in general, so it’s it’s very very thinly either was pressed up against your body, there’s no profiling at all with this knife because of the way it’s designed and how flat the sheath is, how flat The handles are, there’s no profiling and when it does sit under especially something like a coat like this you’re going to have no issues whatsoever.

Thank you. Moving on to the last part of this is the modification. Now I’m going to roll in a couple pictures of the bond I did, and I thought you had to do this with a few tops knives. While I do love tops Kydex, I will say their molds can at times be a little bit weak as far as retention goes, and I did find that this one found out the hard way that I was actually running up a flight of stairs and Boop.

The knife popped out and hit the ground. I was like never again on that, because this is a type of knife that you don’t really the public to see because when they see both of these edges and they kind of see the overall profile, it’s so scary. So what I did was, I just took a couple brass screws. I took put the sheath on my drill press punched, a couple holes just at two areas. Where that I could get some extra clamping power from the brass screws, like I said, I’ve done this before on other tops knives.

It’S really simple, and it’s so simple. You don’t even need nuts on the back, because the brass screws thread through the Kydex, so they’re going to hold up just fine. I wanted to make sure that the retention wasn’t too loose or too hard. I wanted it to hit that sweet spot, because when I got it, it was just a little bit too loose. Now it’s right in that sweet spot where it’s not so loose that it’s going to fall out under normal circumstances or slightly strenuous circumstances.

But at the same time, it’s going to have a nice pull and it’s going to be pretty easy to get out without having a wrench on your neck. So anyways, that’s all for the it’s kind of my overview and general thoughts of the ice dagger. It is a really awesome life and, if you’re looking for a really competent and heavy-duty self-defense option as far as knives go, I would very very much encourage you to take a look at least take a look at the ice stacker because, like I said, I think It’S a very smart design, anyways, I’m out