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CUT RESISTANT GLOVES V.S. AXE

Have you seen these? These are not my Michael Jackson, Thriller gloves these are level-5 cut proof gloves, but can they protect a cut from an axe? These gloves are really bizarre and I really felt I don’t know what makes him makes him to work so well. But when I received them, I thought that they were going to be some sort of a metal fiber in their. You know like maybe like medieval chainmail type of thing, but they’re, not that at all.

I got a magnet on here and there’s something else in there. I don’t know what it is these, according to the advert or level 5, which was according to them the highest level of protection, and they claim that they are entirely cut proof. I can’t help, but thinking that ona in the gang from the novel, Upton Sinclair’s novel The Jungle, if you haven’t read it to must read, probably, would have really liked to have a pair of gloves like these back in their the Meatpacking days, but interesting, interesting things.

So I thought we’d do a little fun test today and we’ll start we’ll start escalating and see how tough these these things are. We’ll start with a knife we’ll try some big industrial shears. I wonder how they do on a small saw and then we’ll finish off with the axe test and see if we can chop them without my hands in them. Thank you very much all right. So, let’s, let’s take one off, I don’t have that much faith in them to be honest with you and see if we can, with all my strength, lop off a finger with this bench, made crazy stuff what man can devise.

I find this hard to believe that I can’t, with all my pressure, lop off a finger of these nice clothes. Well, there yeah that’s so lame. I was expecting so much more. I was expecting a challenge there, but that doesn’t work at all. So I’m assuming that you want there having some flexibility in them. You know with the human flesh, is going to be I’m not about to cut my hand with those things on there.

Okay, I have to say that that is not at all very cut proof. All right, so, let’s switch it so it don’t fit to this year’s all right. Let’s see, can we you know that is offering certainly a bit more of a challenge there IKEA’s okay, so I said well, no, I can’t I cannot cut this with the shears. I’ve got a little bit of a bration right there, but no, I can’t you know if, like maybe if I could pull them tight a little bit.

Let’s try that pull a little trip pressure on there. No I’d say: you’re safe. If you’re using your big upholstery shears, you can probably not lose any sleep at night, but if you’re using a bench made, beware certainly be aware of that. Okay, so let’s see, can you say it? Let’s stretch it over here, can you saw, will a saw Taron? I would imagine the saws going to I’m going to really tear this up. It’s going to snag, pulled some tension on there and see.

Can you see that see if it okay, sorry, I was out of frame there. Let’s take a look and see how how well it does with the saw so the saw will be using here is the it’s actually, the pretty nice bahco laplander, no silky, but it doesn’t reflect the silky price either. A pretty good saw, not everything they think is bad okay, so we are sawing and I have to say, that’s pretty durable stuff. That’s really amazing! Isn’t it whatever that weave is I’d like to know what’s in that to make it so tough man? I wouldn’t think I couldn’t think of a fabric alive that could withstand a sawtooth like that much pressure on it.

Well, you can eventually get it starting to break down. You could eventually get through it, but oh look at that. Another character mark on that. My favorite axe, that’s the new handle okay. Well, I I would say that it is not saw proof but you’re going to take some work to get through it. It’s certainly not bench made proof. I can’t they believe that is that wasn’t really that easy to cut through.

Let’s see, let’s do that again: hmm! Well we’re going to have a nice set of fishing gloves here before we’re done with that all right, let’s see it’s, it stands up to the axe. Blade, if I’m going to be completely honest, that I do not have a whole lot of faith in this right here. So what we have here is we’ve got the grand forest Brooks small forest axe, viciously sharp, very, very sharp and we’re going to do a test and we’re going to find out here.

If it is indeed cut proof, it is not no surprise there try one more time a little bit harder see what happens yeah. You know I mean it. Does it’s somewhat resistant, but it’s not cut proof. Can we cut through the handle all the way there with a few chops? Let’s see one two three yep, definitely not axe proof, but it’s tough whatever that stuff is. It is very tough. You can’t Holly tear it. I don’t know what that is it Kevlar.

I mean that is so tough, that’s stuff, very interesting. Okay, let’s, let’s go to our conclusion. So what’s my conclusion of the level five cut proof glove? Well, I think we we definitely pushed it outside of its design specification. However, I think what it’s intended for, of course, is just this type of cutting. You know I mean if I take the glove here and I go across it, and this knife is razor razor sharp.

It’s going to protect me. So if I’m, I don’t know cutting meat, maybe I’m processing you deer or an elk. You know something like this. It’s kind of definitely seems like it protects you from any sort of a cut, but when you get really start pushing and pressure down there and put it against a hard surface, you know there’s no such thing as a miracle, and I knew that I probably I Knew exactly what these things were going to be, but I thought it was kind of an interesting test.

Another thing that they do not test against this is any sort of a penetration or poking. The fibers do spread and they’ll go right through there, but when you the knife’s edge is held up is distributed over all of the fibers, then it seems to offer plenty of cut protection. It is very disconcerting I’ll tell you just those pictures are grabbing a knife. Like that are, are bad might be pretty good in a medieval.

Would it work in a sword fight, you know those guys at catching the sword. I don’t know I don’t know, I guess it’d be better than nothing, but that’s it. That’s my review of the level 5 cut proof gloves and we’ll see you guys on the next article.


What are you eating? Check out the video below to find out about a healthy snack.

 

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Knives and Processing Wood

What I wanted to do today was continue in our article series. We talked about yesterday, my humble opinion on knives, and I want to talk a little bit more and expand on some of those things that we talked about. Yesterday and show you some techniques and also again talk about some nonno’s for knife use. One of the things that we talked about a lot yesterday was using a baton with your knife, and basically, a baton is just a piece of hardwood and again I, like mine, you know about arm length from my armpit out to you, where the crook of my Wrist is, and it needs to be made out of a piece of hard wood that you can make contact with the back of your knife to create a better cutting tool out of your knife and give it more force.

If you don’t have an axe and you need to cut something that you can’t just push your knife through. Obviously you don’t want to chop with that knife, and we talked about that. So this becomes the thing that you swing and the knife becomes a solid point of contact that becomes a blade for cutting. So this is an extension of your knife. If you don’t have an axe now, if you have a saw, you may still need to baton.

But if you have an axe, you have no need for either. The problem is you’re not always going to have an axe in every situation and that’s why you need to learn or understand the limitations and capabilities of baton in your knife. So we can use any sized knife from the TLC that we talked about yesterday. All the way up to and including, like the Pathfinder Scout, with a big six-inch blade to baton, we can use the mores if we have to.

But again I tend to stay away from baton knives that are not full tang for fear that they may break at the rat tail and you may go for years without ever breaking a rat tail tang knife, but the time you need it. The most is usually when your equipment fails and I’m not going to take that chance and that’s what we talked about full tang knives. So what we’re going to talk about today is a little bit of do’s and don’ts with your knife, how to use your knife properly with a baton, how to not use your knife properly.

Obviously we talked about you never use your knife to swing like in hacks, because it’s very uncontrolled, it’s very unsafe and it doesn’t take maximum advantage of that blade. I can take a lot more advantage of that blade as a cutting surface by using it with a baton, then I can ever take by sewing it with my hand. The other thing I would never do with my knife is tie it to the end of the stick and make a spear, and I had a couple questions about that.

I’ve had people ask me about that before. Why don’t the knives that I use have the ability to be bolted on to something else as a spear? Well, if your knife is your only tool, why would you want to attach it to a stick? It could possibly come off of and now you’ve lost. Your only tool goes back to my same mentality of throwing knives. Why would I ever want to throw a knife and throw away the only tool that I have? I would never do that.

So I’m not going to use it for a spear at the same time by swinging it as something like an axe. I take a chance on doing damage to that knife for damage to myself. That’s unnecessary. If I can better control the way that knife cuts by using a baton and that’s what we’re going to talk about a lot today, stay with me guys, okay, so what I have in front of me is: I have a hickory sapling and this sapling is about Three inches in diameter at the bottom.

It would be something that I may use for a ridgepole or a construction portion of my shelter. If I were having to build something primitive, it’s a pretty tall tree, it’s probably over 20 feet tall. It’s got a lot of limbs on it. It’s got like I said about a three inch base. So let’s talk about how we would use our knife to process this tree depending on what we’re trying to do. Okay, so the first thing I’m going to do is I’m going to bend this tree over and decide how much of this tree? I don’t need because I’m not going to need the top of this tree for my shelter, although I may use the branches and things like that.

That’s why we’re going to limit, but I’m not going to use the top most crooked portion of this for a construction element, my shelter, so I need to get rid of part of it. Okay, so, as I said, we’re going to have to limb this tree, someone there’s no reason for us to use our knife necessarily unless we have to. If I’ve got a baton already, I can probably beat on many of those limbs off of there by striking against them and down and just pull them off.

If they don’t come off. That way, then I’ll use my knife with the baton, but I want to save that knife as much as I can first remember that in a situation where you are truly stuck down to one tool and that tool is your cutting blade, it’s your most important asset. So the least you have to use it the better off. You are okay, so I’ve got the one here that doesn’t want to come off. What I’m going to do is I’m going to straddle this tree and I’m just going to cut it off with my knife.

The best way for me to effectively do that now that I’ve got it ripped down, is just to put my knife on top of it and hit down just like that and cut it off now. If I’ve got an area where I can’t get the limb off for some reason with my baton, then I will choose to baton my knife through that limb and we’ll talk about that next. Okay. So if I have a limb like this one and this one would come off just by smacking it with this baton, but for sake of this demonstration, we’re going to use our knife, what I’m going to do is I’m going to put my knife in the crotch Of that limb, just like this going down the tree, I’m going to use this area of my knife and again the majority of what you do is going to be used is going to be using this portion of your blade.

So I’m going to get that thing as close to the bottom, as I can and just cut it straight off, just like that with my knife. If I get to that point, I’m good it didn’t take, but a couple of small taps to get that done, and I wasn’t swinging and flailing my knife around like some kind of an axe and that’s the point. Okay, now we’re to the point where we’re going to take the top out of this tree. The best way for us to do that is to bend the top in toward us and push down what that does.

Is that put stress on the bend right here once we’ve got that Bend stressed, we can then safely cut it and as long as we’re standing on it, it’s going to flip out of our way. So we’re just going to take our knife and push down in toward the material just like this and we’re just beaver chewing in just like this, with our knife and sooner or later, even on a live hickory we’re going to get that off of there.

Now we have no top on this tree. All we have is this point. I want to get to add a little less dangerous and just round it off a little bit and then we’ll let the tree go back up. Okay. This is a very good example. This live hickory that were working on right now is a very good example of something that you would use for a spring poll you’re going to have to get rid of all the foliage on this tree, because it’s going to cause resistance when it tries to spring Upward, but a sapling like this – that’s nice and big nice and tall.

This thing’s still like 15 feet tall and has a lot of pressure on it. That’s what you’re going to have to have if you’re going to try to do primitive trapping, because something like this will lift an animal off the ground. Remember if you’re, using primitive methods to trap with you’ve got to get that animal off the ground. Something like this will do it, so that’s a very good technique to take the top out of a tree take a few, the branches off of the tree of the sapling, so that you can then use that for a spring Pole.

Okay, so again, this is our pole at present right here. This is a heavy-duty pole. I’m going to pull this thing down and let’s string up one more time on you about where it would be if it were a trap, spring device, and you can see how heavy due to that piece of hickory is. That makes a great spring pole you’re going to need something the size of that if you plan to do primitive trapping okay. So let’s look at this pole as if we’ve decided, we need to take the whole thing with us now.

Maybe we’re going to use this as a structural pole for a shelter or a travois or some type of a device for dragging someone out of the woods if we needed it like a like a mature of some kind that we can drag like a trip away Or we’re going to use this whole thing for a spring poll, but we didn’t happen to get lucky enough that this great spring poll was right by where we want to set our trap. So we got to take this with us to jam it somewhere else.

In a log jam or bury it partially in the ground or lever it somehow so that it will work the way we want it to work at any rate, when we cut this down, we don’t want to leave. You know a three-foot stump sticking up out here. That’s going to be a killing device if somebody trips on okay, all we’re going to do with this tree is we’re going to pull our knife out. So I figure out which side of the tree I need to get on for you guys to see this.

The best we’re going to come down at a low level of the tree and we’re going to cut ourselves a v-notch in this tree a little bit of an angle. And I want to cut that in there. With the belly of my knife, or just behind the belly, and then I want to come in cut that notch out just like that and if I’ve gotten myself half way through the tree. At that point, I should be able to bend this sapling over and it should break.

If that doesn’t happen, then I’m just going to move over a little bit and I’m going to cut a bigger chunk out off to one side, just like this again trying to go half way through the tree trying to control this. Let you guys see it at the same time a little bit sure, but that’s okay! Now it’s going to come straight over now. I can take my knife and shear it off just like this, and if I get some stubborn bark I’ll just run that over the top and go straight down on it and now that tree is ready to go.

I just beaver tune around it until I could push it over and then chopped it off, get it all with my baton, the first two-thirds of my knife and never had to swing anything except this, which is much more controllable and less sharp than swinging this. Okay. So, let’s take a smaller tree in this example, is something that we’re going to harvest. We’ve got a triple triples coming out of the ground right here.

All we’re going to do is bend this down and find our Bend and then we’re going to be virtual with our knife. If we don’t have a big enough knife that we can beat on it, oh we’re a little bit leery of batana our knife. We can always be virtue this thing down and I’m going to show you how to do that right now. Okay, so maybe the knife that we have is not optimal for batani, but it’s still plenty sharp.

Well, that’s just going to dictate to us what size trees. We can pick on a little bit, but we can still get the job done. We just need to figure out where this tree is flexing. You can see it flexing right there and that’s what we’re going to use our knife we’re going to take advantage of that Bend and we’re going to start to cut into that Bend. Just like this, you see how that just bent right over and busted with just a couple of cuts once I’ve done, that I can be virtu my way back around until I cut that completely out.

Just like that. Okay, again we’ll go back to our small knife for a minute and say that we want to process this down to a certain length, we’re going to use it for a tripod stand. Whatever the case may be, we can’t sit here and hack on this thing. For a half an hour with our knife trying to chop it, or we can just take our baton and make a V cut in here over halfway through on this side, turn it over and do exactly the same thing on the backside.

Having problems getting to lay the way I want to house it in top it first, that’s okay, another advantage to topping the tree beforehand is easier to control, and then you can see. I just cut that to length with two cuts very easily snap that off and that things cut to length I didn’t have to swing my knife. All I had to do is very controlled and use my baton very simple, okay, well we’re sitting here with this.

Stick in her hand, let’s talk about another reason or another way that we can use our knife. Now that we know we have a ninety degree spine on that knife again, we’ll go back in a smaller knife, the trap line, companion and if I want to process this thing, maybe this is a dead limb and I want to process this bark for use. As a tinder bundle, I can’t scrape the bark with my knife just like this on the back side, or I want to just remove the bark down to the inner bark or down to the sapwood.

I can do that very easy. With the back of this knife – and I don’t have to sacrifice my blade to try to do things like the bark removal – I can do that with the spine of my knife just like this, and you can see how good that 90 degree spine removes that bark. If I want fine shavings, I can get those as well, and this will work the same way for dead wood as it does for green wood. That 90 degree spine allows me to get very, very fine shavings if I need them, and that is exactly what happens with your ferrocerium rod when you scrape it you’re, taking those fine shavings of magnesium and other materials and removing them, and they spontaneously combust with oxygen And ignite, and one of the things I was talking about yesterday in my article, was about not worrying about carrying a downes bar because you wear out the mat, the mag board.

You wear out the Ferro rod long before you’re, going to wear out the magnesium and what a lot of people don’t understand is because these rods have so much magnesium in them. You can’t always just scrape the rod to get a pile of shavings and those shavings are going to be highly combustible. You just got to be careful about it, so that you’re not creating spark and then you’re going to get the same thing you get with magnesium.

So I wouldn’t carry the downes bar because it has magnesium on. I just care extra feral rod, okay, so real quick. Let’s talk about “’but awning wood as far as processing firewood goes now. This log is about four inches in diameter. If I have a saw, I can cut those logs, but I’m going to be here all day trying to do this. So it’s a lot easier for me to baton this. If I don’t have an axe, if I have an axe, I can forego all of that.

But I don’t have an axe because I’m down to you know I just carried a saw and a knife because that’s all I thought I was going to need or all I have is you know well I’ve got then I may have to beat on wood and That’s all there is to it, so there are ways that you can beat on logs like this properly and there’s ways to do it, I’m properly or unsafely, and one thing that I want you remember is like I said this is a four inch diameter long and That is one of the reasons for the length of this knife.

Okay, and this is about a five inch log. Actually, so there’s barely any stick out on the edge of this log. So when I get this knife down into here that this log hasn’t split for some reason, I still have something to hit with my baton. Besides the back of my knife or the back of my hand, that’s the reason for that blade length. If I have a four inch blade and I’ve got a vlog, this big once I get down to the center of it now I’m either banging on the back of my hand or I’m banging on the handle, and I don’t want to do that.

So that’s another reason for the five to six inch blade length, because a four inch log is good fuel size. It’s also good size for shelter, building material. You should never have to process anything bigger than four inches in diameter in a woodland emergency or a wilderness emergency scenario. You should never have to process anything bigger than that, so big choppers and things like that in eastern Willa’s aren’t necessary.

You really don’t need them. So what we’re going to do is we’re going to lay our knife on the log and I like to split the center first and you want to you: don’t ever want to do this, you don’t want the belly of your knife or the point of your knife. Going into this piece of wood remember that this area is going to be used for skinning tasks, find carving tasks and all of those types of things, and it’s also the hardest to resharpen that area in the field.

That’s important thing to remember that some people, don’t realize, is a straight long flat like this is much easier to resharpen than a curved edge right here, even in a controlled environment. That’s the part that most people have struggle with. So in the woods it’s really going to be a problem, so I need to conserve that area of my blade, the best I can so I’m going to push my knife, no matter how big my log is all the way to the edge of that blade.

Now this one just happens to be wide enough. Then it’s going to take up some of that area. I don’t want to use, but I have no choice in that with this long. If I had a choice I wouldn’t be doing it, then I’m going to get I’m going to hold back on the handle a little bit to make sure my hands completely out of the way and I’m going to take a seating tap. I’m going to make sure that knife is seated in there very well, then I’m going to take a harder smack if my knife gets cockeyed I’ll, move off to the side a little bit and continue now you can see I’ve went down through this log and it Did not split it completely out.

Part of that is blade, grind issue. If this was a Scandinavian, grinder or a wedge shape, it would split this much butter. This is a flat grind, which is a narrow. It’s a full flat grind, which is a narrow wedge, not near as good for splitting wood, much better for processing meat and game again trade off. If I had the Pathfinder knife in this thing, it would have split wide open. So now I’m at the mercy of smacking on this tip, but if this tip wasn’t here, what would I do? I need there to be swinging this down to try to bust it and flail around my knife, or I’d have to try to pry it out of there start over again, alright be smacking back here on my handles so by having that little blade length out there, I was able to effectively split that log open.

If I quarter this, that’s going to be more than enough for fuel, that’s going to be enough! Cutting down of that material to make fuel! This is long burning fuel. If it’s hard wood, that’s going to burn a lot faster. If I’m trying to make fire material for starting my fire like a kindling pile, then I’m going to have to split this down considerably more because kindling to me is something the size of a pencil or less.

So now I’m going to have to split that down again into eights. Then I’m going to have to drop down and split it into 16 crossways. Then I’m going to have to split that down into 30 seconds. I don’t have to get out of control with this. These pieces here are going to be good kindling. That’s an important thing to understand, especially if you’re in a wet weather situation you can’t find dry material oftentimes breaking inside a log is going to give you the driest material.

Now you could choose to go down. One step further with this: no problem, if you were really in wet conditions, you want to insure yourself a lot of surface area. You could split that down it’s a little bit more to stuff like this and that’s going to be more highly combustible. Now, if I were really really worried about my fire and I had really extremely wet conditions, then I might take a stick: the size of this one that was going to be kindling, and I might take that and use that to make a feather stick and again, I’m just using my thumb for a guide here.

This is hard wood, so it’s not going to shave down near as well as a piece of soft wood, wood, soft wood wood, but I can still get their surface area increased dramatically by putting some fine shavings around this piece of wood. Just like that, I knock them off. They don’t do me a whole lot of good. I really need to stay on their partner. That’s a function of this wood being dry, but these kernels are going to give me increased surface area for the flames and again you know this is a pretty good sized knife.

This is no Maura. This is a big butchering knife that we’re using, but it’ll get the job done, not as well as a Maura, but it’ll definitely get the job done and that’s what counts. Okay, folks! Well, I hope you enjoyed this article today a little bit more about knives. My thoughts on knives, what you can do with your knife, if you got the right skill level, how to use your knife to process different types of wood, and things like that, you may need to do in the woods and the safest way to do that.

I appreciate your time your support, your views, everything you for me for my school and for my family I’ll be back to another article. Soon, as I can, thanks guys, you


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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Why I Stopped Using Silky Saws

Tell you what as an amateur, Forester and tool aficionado, I have come to love silky sauce. I just absolutely adore them the quality, the value that you get and just the incredible cutting potential of these things. Now, if you haven’t used, the silky saw well you’re in for a treat they’re, just they’re head and shoulders, above all the other ones that you have at your ace and your hardware store you even the Coronas, and all of that I mean they all look very Similar but the Devils in the details and the guys it’s silky, get these things right now.

What I have here are two extremely different saws. Now, what’s the application for these, you know what would what is what am I using them for? Well, we have a large piece of property. Forestry is a big portion of it, and what I have found is that these saws are so good that you don’t. I just rarely use a chainsaw in limbing type of operations. You know operations limbing, forest clearing, that sort of thing, wildland, prevention, they’re, so good, and the experience is so much better with the saw, especially when it’s hot, we don’t have the face shield.

We don’t have the hardhat, we don’t have the the chaps, the safety equipment, the earring preparing protection, the gas, the oil, the bar the expense, the noise on and on and on sometimes a handsaw is the better way to go now. My first silky that I bought was this one of the folding sauce, and this is the big boy, and I thought oh man, the bigger the better right. Of course a bigger saw is going to cut better, but I have not found that to be very good.

I don’t think that these big silkies like this, I I think I think that they’re they’re kind of they, don’t I don’t like them. How about that? I don’t I don’t like them. I think that they’re too big for the very reason is when you’re, cutting and working you need to have two hands right and this the ER goes on this and the way it’s designed and how big it is. You cannot with unless you’re Superman or The Incredible Hulk.

You can’t put a lot of tip pressure on the saw with the hand, it’s not very comfortable to hold. It’s definitely made for two hands. Well, I don’t typically want to cut two hands. Usually, I need to hold a branch but to have one hand to keep it from pinching and the other hand I want to cut with. I find myself getting very tired with this saw. I you knowing you when you have something in your mind.

You think this Sookie big boy, the mm, you know I’m a big boy and I need a big boy saw. This is going to be the best. But what I keep finding is, I start off with it and I end up not using it and no one wants to use it because it’s just too darn big, too darn big and too difficult to cut with you can’t get the pressure on it. Now, if you’re, the guy, that’s out there going to be cutting with two hands all the time? Well, maybe that’s for you go for it, but what we’re going to try today is – I just ordered this up.

This is the smallest one. This is the pocket boy and we’ll see if indeed this may be, a better cutter for the particular application, we’re talking about right there and then we’ll wrap it up. The folding saws are very nice because well the very reason that they fold they that you can poke them in a back pocket. These are sharp. You can’t put those in a pocket. You can’t work with them without a sheath, they’re kind of dangerous, and a lot of applications are not great this one here, but my plan is for it when it’s not being used in forestry is to I’ll carry this my dirt bike bag to cut any branches Or things out of the way and nice to have a folding saw you do not want a big open saw bouncing around in your backpack, so be careful when you’re buying these saws.

Also they come in three different teeth configurations. I made the mistake the first time I order one of these. I didn’t look closely at it and I bought one that had five teeth and the teeth were super fine. They were like grafting, a you know, landscape type of guy. You know he wanted to mr. Miyagi mr. Mr. Miyagi type of type of saw not good for her for fast cutting and for rough cutting in forest clearing.

So I sent that one back and I got not too even the media one about this super aggressive one. The one that has the big gnarly teeth it they’re, not that much different than the big one or the big boy either it has the big gnarly teeth as well feature that I’ve never really understood on this is that you can it’s got two positions. You can hyper kind of hyper extend the blade there. I you know what to be honest with you.

I haven’t really found it that useful it’s actually counterintuitive. I like to have a saw. That’s got even more curve than this, especially radius like this, because when you’re cutting overhead it helps to get the top of the branch cut these this design. The shape here is not super good for long reaching and cutting overhead. So enough talk, let’s take this over to a branch and see one-handed if the big boy or the pocket boy can keep up with the big boy.

So let’s see what’s what here, so we’ve got a a ponderosa pine here. This is very typical of the size of stuff that we’ll be cutting we’ll start with the big boy, the one-handed cut, because a lot of this stuff has twists and it’s got some. You know memory in it and it’ll want to twist up and it’ll bind and you need to kind of control it here with the hand. So it’s hard to be scientific with this, but what I’ll do is I’ll just cut my normal pressure, the best I can we’ll put a timer up there in the post, edit and we’ll see, but let’s uh I’ll kind of count the strokes here and we’ll see How long does it take to get through this with and what’s the experience with the big boy? Okay, so I’m counting 18 strokes, and what I have always noticed with this saw is its.

It makes my forearms. It kills my forearms because I’m pushing so hard against this and I don’t have any assistance from the air goes or from the handle, and it tires me out. I do not. I don’t like the saw, never have liked it now. If we take the same thing here with the pocket boy, it’s definitely choked up we’re going to be closer to the blade the air goes on. It are a little bit better, still not great, but let’s see 18 was the count.

Let’s see what we got here. Sixteen okay, so what was the experience? It actually cut in fewer strokes and I don’t feel so pumped out my arm doesn’t feel near as tired as this. So is there a downside? Is there any reason to go with the big saw beings? This is the first time I’m using I’ve used this I’m just kind of thinking out loud, but the other thing is is I can put two hands on here pretty comfortably.

I can wrap around here. So if I do want to get more pressure, so if I wanted to put two hands on eleven strokes now with the big boy of course, I could put two hands on it. I’ll go as hard as I can. Okay steak still takes a stroke more. I don’t think that there is any place for this saw and the type of work that I do. I it’s too big to carry in a pack. It’s too big to use with one hand effective effectively.

It is, I just think it’s. I just think it’s kind of ridiculous. I just don’t see I just. I have never seen that the need for it or the purpose for it, plus it’s twice the money. I’m surprised that this little one kind of cuts as big as good as it does pretty amazing. So I guess the question I would be asked I’d have to ask myself is, let’s say: you’re going to go out and you’re going to work in the forest for a couple hours you can take.

One saw with you, which one you’re going to take you’re going to take the the pocket boy, or are you going to take the silky big boy? Well, I’m not going to take either one of these. That’s all I’m going to take into the forest is not even a silky. It’s the Ichiban, the Ichiban is hands-down. The very best saw I’ve ever used. Yes, I understand silky makes some saws like this very similar. I would imagine the experience is going to be very similar but they’re expensive.

This is not expensive and, as far as I can tell quality-wise it’s it’s just as good, if not better and performance wise, it’s better, it’s better than these folding saws for several different reasons. Okay, first off, let’s talk about cost. This are right here. The big boy is going to run you I think. Now the prices are going to change, but I think that when I purchased this, it was about $ 55 $ 55.

And what do you get? Well, you get a saw, that’s going to fold, that’s the difference right, that’s very convenient to have a solid that will fold. This saw, of course, is not going to fold, but you need a sheath. What I have found, it’s so big that it doesn’t fit into a back pocket and whenever it when you’re working, it falls out of the pocket, and you end up going back and looking for it. You know a good thing that it’s yellow, so what you have to do.

Is you end up having to buy the big boy she’s right, the big boy she now you’re at $ 55? How much is the sheath believe it or not? It’s $ 24, which is very expensive for a plastic sheath. Is it a good sheath? It’s okay, it’s not bad. It has minimal reticular retention. One way what would be nice is if it was a head retention, both ways. I don’t know, because you never know which way you’re going to put it in it does have a quick release on it, which is very much appreciated if you need to get in and out of equipment.

You can leave this on your tin pants and then, when you go to work, you can just snap that on there I do like that. So the sheath is fine, but well we have 55 65 75 or at $ 80 right here for the big boy and the sheath well right here, the Ichiban, the samurai, this one about $ 35 and you get the sheath and you get an excellent sheath. You get a sheath that has not only the quick-release buckle like we like we like, but it articulates, and this may not seem like a big deal.

But when you’re moving around and and you’re bending over having that little bit of movement with the saw and the sheath helps you to get a hold of handle, and it’s really wonderful – it’s really appreciated so $ 35. You get the sheath and the saw there ergonomics on this thing are absolutely absolute perfection, and I know that because I have spent so many hours using it and I never get fatigued when we do forestry work.

This is the saw that is fought over. This is the saw that everyone wants, because it has that wonderful curve to it. Now, when we’re like in the previous article, we’re talking about you, know the importance of living things up, we’re limiting up our trees, our stand as high as we can. What you find is as you’re reaching up, because it’s got this curve. You get a lot of you get a cut on the top. It cuts the branch more on the top and it’s easier to reach and it comes down and it breaks cleaner where the straight ones they tend to pinch more often so the ergonomics on this and the shape and the weight and the balance and the size of It it’s just everything, that’s just right: it’s just perfect the handle the comp, the compound and the rubber.

The way it feels you never get any blisters on it. It fits my hand perfectly. They even have a little kind of a guard right there, which is nice. When you’re sawing that you don’t come back and rake your knuckles on it, I mean it’s really incredible. The amount of thought and attention to detail that have went into this went this went into this saw. I can’t help but think whoever it was that built this.

That came up with this design. They must have been a tree person. They must have have been familiar with saws used saws, because what they’ve come up with is absolute perfection and for thirty-five dollars with the sheath. It’s just unbelievable. It’s hard it’s hard to it’s. You can’t be beat, I haven’t seen anything out there now, every time I do one of these saw articles, someone comes out and says: well, the best saw out there is the great big silky that or they call it, the katana boy.

You know it looks like a it’s like a samurai sword. You could it’s huge, it’s ridiculous. I don’t know what what the purpose would be. You know I mean I guess to get to quote: captain man, narrating mentoring. I think we’re delving into the world of fantasy. While talking about katana boy style saws, you know saws need to be used with one hand, because sawing is a two hand procedure. You have to have a hand that sawing you have to have something that is controlling you’re, holding or working with the hand you know.

Taking care of bind or just moving the branch away so sawing me is not a two-handed sport. It’s a one-handed sport – and this is this – is the one sorry silky, but I’ve just that’s my experience. So how about this little guy? This was the first time that I’ve used it. I’ve spent an hour so of it today. This is a great little saw right here. So this what’s the price on this one? Well, it’s it costs even more than the samurai right there I mean this is thirty.

Four: thirty six dollars. Last time I checked this one here. I think I paid $ 40 for it on Amazon with shipping, that’s $ 40, but you get a folding saw and when you start looking at the form factor, well it just blows it away. If we’re in a condition where we need to be packing stuff hunting, bushcrafting survival again dirtbiking, you know I can’t I can’t handle this. I can’t I can’t take that it’s it’s it’s too big.

Now, if I knew if I was going on a ride – and I knew that we were going to be the first through after a winter blow down we’re going to have a lot of trees to contend with, I would take this saw and I would strap it To my chest, protector right, I fastened it to the radiator guard or something to this, to the to the bike where I could just pull it out and cut and not have to fool with the folding.

But if I was going to have something just just in case in case, I needed to clear the trail or a small one that was not necessarily going to be, in my hand, to be used all day, then this is a good way to go. This is perfect for your truck. This is perfect, for survival saw. This is perfect, for a hunting saw. Bushcrafting saw it’s, it’s really, wonderful, the big boy. On the other hand, I’m sorry I just don’t.

I just don’t think it’s a good design and – and just because it’s bigger doesn’t mean it’s better. We saw right there and I didn’t cheat and I didn’t try to make one win to the other. This one. This little guy cut in fewer strokes than the big one did with less effort, but neither one of them can compare to this. So this is a tool, that’s essential if you’re a homesteader, if you’re an outdoor person, if you like to work in the yard, I just don’t think that you’re going to you’re going to spend $ 35 better than this.

I get the question all the time. Hey we’ve got five acres; we want to do some clearing. We want to do. You know we’re in the urban interface we want to you. We have to don’t worry about fire. What chainsaw should I get like? Well, I don’t think you should get a chainsaw at all. I mean. Are you heating with wood? Are you? Are you doing that type of work? Well, no! Well we’ll get this one right here and get two of them.

You can get two for what seventy dollars. One for you, one for your wife or three. If you got family get one for all of you, you can wreak havoc on trees and brush and forest with a family with armed with these guys, they’re they’re, really really wonderful, there’s also, I should probably mention this. So the all the pocket boy did come with this, and a lot of guys were saying: oh, it comes with a with a scabbard.

This is not a scabbard. This is a display case for for a retailer with a hook on it could it be used. I guess if I was going to use this I’d, probably pop rivet, a piece of leather on there, maybe a little strap or canvas, and you could thread that onto a belt. Maybe just drill two holes and zip tie that little guy bends it out a little bit and thread your belt through there. It might be kind of handy, but it’s so small that you can keep it in a pocket.

The other thing I was thinking, I’m really conscious of wait. Am I like a my dirt bike pack, I was worried, you know with all the jostling. This is kind of sharp and that could cut a pack, but you know that might might be. Maybe that’s wouldn’t be a bad idea stored in there, but I can’t I can’t justify the weight. I can’t take all that extra weight at all. It all adds up, but that’s it that’s. My kind of my my take on saws get yourself an itchy bond.

I’ll put a link about Amazon store. This is not a paid endorsement. This is not I’m not affiliated with any of these companies. These were all purchased with my own money. This is my experience that I’m sharing with you guys so don’t forget to click your thumbs up, appreciate the the views and the support and we’ll see you guys on the next article.


What are you eating? Check out the video below to find out about a healthy snack.

 

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My One Bushcraft Knife… CRK Pacific Review

So now I’m going to do my review and overall thoughts about this knife, so, let’s jump into it.

This is a pretty big claim to say I’m only using this knife, I will say the primary reason I am choosing to go that way or why I’m not running a whole bunch of different other knives from bush crafting or survival practice is because I truly want To get good with one knife – and my thing is: I’ve – just had it up to here off the screen with just having a whole bunch of different survival, knives that I’m never using and there’s a whole bunch of excellent once it certainly doesn’t have to be the One for you, but this is the one that I chose, and there are a few other reasons aside from me, just being fed up with the knife industry on why I chose this one.

So now, let’s get into those so starting off with this knife. One of the primary reasons why I was attracted to this knife and my original thoughts for getting this knife was that I wanted to work more on island survival being close to water and working with the water, more hand in hand and imma be rolling in pictures Showing you guys what I’m talking about, and so when I sat down and thought about what knife I need a for working so close to the water.

I wanted a knife that had a really good stainless steel. So it’s not only a good steel generally all around, but it’s also very rust resistant. This is a knife that I could get wet and not really fear the steel rusting, and so that is the primary reason. The s35vn is what led me to this knife next, to that, it’s also the world nests of this knife. When I did choose my one and only survival knife, I wanted to make sure, and it was a knife that was not going to break.

I wasn’t going to give me issues as far as the thinness of the blade, so that was my next consideration or thought really was that one of saying robust now this knife is close to 1/4 inch thick and definitely fits the criteria of being robust. So, lastly, I wanted a knife that also had great ergonomics, because the last thing I will say if your are choosing and one knife to be your bushcraft knife going forward, it does need to feel comfortable in the hand and it needs to feel natural and that It really is this knife, and I have to say as far as the ergonomics go, it not only feels natural, but the way this micarta was done.

It was not only left for broth, but it was also left textured. So there’s a whole bunch of essentially little protrusions in the scale that grip it to your skin, not in an uncomfortable way, but in a really positive way. So the night feels very comfortable in hand, but it also walks up into your hand very well and I’ve always enjoyed since day one I’ve enjoyed the hell out of these grips, and I really do love the grips on this thing, they’re absolute when for me, so Basically, those were my three qualifications: it had to be waterproof or very water resistant and a rust resistant and very keen was working in water environments.

It had to be robust and it still had to be very comfortable, and so that’s what landed me on the Chris Reeve knives specific and also I have had in the past emailing. Some of you guys know you know I’ve had Sebenza before so this isn’t my first Chris Reeves knife knife and I’ve always been very impressed with the quality and with the warranty on these knives. It’s just a really great brand. It came with a few issues of you know these different these different, these different guards kind of got in the way, but overall I was still able to find it a very easy time choking up on the knife, doing more fine tasks also due to the heavy Haft of this knife because, like I said it is a reasonably thick knife, it also did chopping very well, and I’ve always been impressed with the ability of this knife to just go right through material and just clean cleanly swipe right through material.

I think another thing that helps with that is the fact that this is a very finely ground edge and you guys can see it has a nice long grind to it and then a great battle. It’s very polished edge. It is extremely sharp, so it’s weight and it’s grind in bevel have helped it sail through materials like nobody’s business. It’s also not to mention a very good knife for beat awning, because it has been very great in the water.

Obviously, this this gun coat in my son. I do find interesting that this knife doesn’t have just some. You know like spray-paint coat. It does have a gun coat on it. I believe the gun coat is similar to a seracote. It has been extremely durable. There’s only a few places where the coating has minorly loved off, primarily on this, where the grind starts, and that is not too uncommon to see on. Basically, any knife you put Todd with because that’s where the most friction is put on when you put on with a knife, so it’s not to be unexpected, but the coating is very durable.

The rust resistance, as I seen it and listen. I have gotten this knife wet and I’ve actually crossed rivers with this knife and like in its sheath on my hip, and you know, leave like waters come up into the sheath. You know Gea here, and so the knife has definitely got wet in the sheath. Is the knife that I’ve unapologetically lat get very dirty, very wet and giving it a lot of opportunity to get all nasty and ugly and rusty, but the s35vn has performed very well.

The attention to is to be expected with CPM s35vn or really good. It’s definitely leaving really nothing because, like I was saying the performance of this knife in forced environments, which I certainly have taken it into the forest, a bushcraft is pretty much on par with something like a fall can even a one like. I said, though, the primary reason why I stress this as an island survival knife or as a water survival knife or you know, one that’s going to be in the water – is because the CPM s35vn, unlike vg-10 or the vg-10 laminate, that Faulkner even uses this definitely Output for so vastly before we finish up the review, I also will say the on the sheath I’ll give some notes on it.

I do really love this sheet. It is a very modular sheath. As that you guys have seen in the past. I easily connect my own condor, I pouch to this right up here, but this is a very modular pouch. It has Mali attachment running up the front. It has some webbing attachment areas in the back. The belt loop is really nice. I will say it has a double velcro, so essentially you set your belt in here, and this conforms to your belt.

So if you’re running an inch wide belt, this will walk around that belt. If you’re running an inch and a half to inch about whatever the this will conform to that, and actually we walk your belt in place, which is really nice because on other sheets that don’t have a similar system, I kind of get a sloppy sheath that when It’s on your side or attached to your belt. This sheath will kind of wobble like this, whereas with this and it closes around your belt, it locks your belt in so there’s no wobble, and then you get an extra secure meant like that, and it makes for a really tight securing belt.

So I do like that, and it does come with some extra cordage, of course, is a paracord, but I’ve just left it on here, because it came with it in whatever other than that. It does have a really nice and very secure button closure and just like on some other high-end knives. I have reviewed in the past, primarily, I think, actually just the pull force. Prepper one also have this, but the interior of the sheath or in here isn’t just plastic that rattles and bangs and makes all kinds of noise.

It does actually have a layer of felt in there to keep the knife quiet and keep it from just banging around. In there and being an obnoxious plastic piece of crap, so the sheath places the button fits very tightly. You can see that there is no play in this of a lot of Cheaper sheaths. You’ll see you know, the knife will come out and sometimes even expose a bit of the blade with this there’s. Absolutely none of that this is the most the knife gives and snap is really strong.

This doesn’t just pop on or off. It takes a really purposeful, pull and depend on it’s also very purposeful. So really do like this sheath, it’s actually one of the best stock, sheaths I’ve ever gone and just out of box it’s one of those sheaths that, aside from throwing on a thigh strap, I didn’t want to do absolutely anything to this sheath. I really suggested you guys take a look at this knife because it is definitely interesting and it’s one of the more uncommon choices out there, but I think, is really capable, especially for the money.

It’s a nice survival knife. I really have no complaints about it. Anyways guys, that’s all for now, god bless and come out.


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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Knives JMHO

I have recently been involved in quite a few discussions and visual things on knives, and I want to put this in the basic series so that people understand why I choose the types of nice that I choose.

Why. I think that some knives are more favorable over other knives and then also I want to talk to you about things that you see on the internet, about different knives, and one thing that I want you to understand right off. The bat is, if you are reading a review of any piece of gear, it doesn’t matter whether it is a knife or what it is. If you’re reading a review, somebody saying I’m going to review this piece of equipment.

First of all, look at what conditioning equipments in if it’s brand new chances are they’ve, never used it. How can they review it? Number two look at that person’s overall skill level. Have you readed any of their other articles to see what their skill level is? As a woodsman as a bushcrafter as a survivalist, and that would lead you to believe either hey this guy knows a little bit about what he’s talking about or maybe not so much and that’s what you need to understand.

I see a lot of reviews on YouTube and I don’t read many because a lot of times I’d flat turn them off I’ll, be honest with you fi. If I pull up a article, let’s just take a knife review. For instance, if I pull a knife review up on YouTube and the knife looks brand new, I generally shut the article off if it’s laying on a table and it’s not in the woods or the guy’s, not using it to do something with and he’s just talking About the knife, I generally turn it off.

The other thing is, I look to see what the guy’s skill level is, while he’s using that knife, if he’s using it – and I will tell you now that if you take the crappiest bud, K knife on the planet and you put a good sharp edge on It and you take a nice Mora that cost 20 bucks and you put a good edge on it and you take any given knife that meets the criteria that we’re going to talk about, and you sharpen that thing up.

It doesn’t matter if it cost three or four hundred dollars. If you put all three of those knives in the hands of more Skowronski he’s going to make every one of them look like a knife. You’d want to buy because his skill level and his expertise at fine carving and things like that are so precise and so good and so well, honed that he makes it look natural, no matter what he’s using the deal with. On the other hand, if you take that same set of knives – and you put them in the hands of someone of lesser skill level, much less skill level, it doesn’t matter how good the knife is they’re going to make that knife look bad and it could look Like something you don’t want to buy, even if it might be something, that’s very good.

So I want you to think about those things when you’re looking at articles of a knife reviews and things like that, because some of what we’re going to do today is going to be talking about knives right in front of you. Some of its going to be we’re going to demonstrate some things with the knives pros and cons of the different knives. One thing that you will never see me do with a knife and it’s another thing that I turn it completely off as soon as I see it in a article is you’ll, never see me, take a 5 or 6 inch blade and chop with it.

There’s absolutely! No reason to chop with a knife: that’s not meant for chopping! If you want a chopping knife, get a machete get a Chris Kane survival tool, get a goal lock get a poor wrong, get a kakari, get something that’s made for chopping and processing, wood or vines or bamboo or whatever the case may be, but don’t use a 5 6 inch knife to smack around and try to chop with and make excuses that the handle is not long enough or that you need to move it up and choke back and put a lanyard on it.

So you don’t let go of it and get more leverage on the blade. That’s bunk, okay, you should never have to chop with a knife. That’s not made to chop with that. Knife should be used to baton through material or to push through material by using different types of cuts, not swung like some kind of axe or a machete. That’s what you want! That’s what you buy! That’s the next thing that we need to talk about in this article is understand before you buy a knife.

What is that knife going to do for me versus what do I want that knife to do for me and I get a lot of questions from a lot of people about you know: what’s the best survival knife out there? Well, the patented answer to that is the one you have on you in a survival scenario, but that leads you right back to that’s, probably the knife you bought to begin with. So did you buy the right knife and when I look at that, what I want to tell you is, I look at any knife that I’m going to strap to my hip on a daily basis as a survival knife, because chances are that’s the knife I’m going To get stuck with in an emergency because I put it on my hip every single day and I’m not going to lose it so with that said, I need to make sure that whatever knife I’m going to select a carry every day is going to be a Knife that is multifunctional in an emergency scenario.

It doesn’t necessarily have to be a chopper, because a big chopper is not going to be good at fine carving. It doesn’t necessarily have to be great at fine carving, because it’s not going to be very good for batana processing would necessarily it has to be capable of a lot of things. It has to be capable of processing game. It has to be capable of processing wood. It has to be capable of the fine carving, but it also has to be capable of making bigger logs smaller pieces so that you can create things like pencil sized sticks from a 4-inch log.

If you have to or just split things out when you absolutely have to so that knife has to do a lot of things for you and has to cover a lot of bases, if you go back to my article on knives of the frontier or you know, The kind of history of knives that have been used throughout time you’ll see that really the most common denominator is about a five to six inch blade, at least in the United States, about a five to six inch blade and some type of a butcher knife design.

Either a European butchering knife or an Americanized version of a butchery knife or a French version of the butchering knife and those type blade designs, lend themselves well to a lot of different things for the woodsman. That’s why they use them. That’s why they were around four to three hundred years. That’s the reason. Some of them are still made today so understand what you want to do with that knife.

It’s a back up knife that you’re buying you’re going to put your backpack. Then maybe it doesn’t have to be that perfect knife. That’s going to do everything, maybe you’re buying a backup knife only for you know the trap line you’re going to make your money cuts with and you’re going to keep that thing. Razor sharp and it’s going to be a perfect blade for you to make those precision cuts that you have to make not to mess up a fur on an animal, or maybe it’s going to be your bush crafting knife that you’re going to put in your in Your backpack and you’re going to keep that thing with you to do your fine, carving and making feather sticks and doing those little fancy things that we do in bushcraft, but does that lend itself to a good survival knife? Maybe yes, maybe no depends on if it meets the criteria that you decided needs to meet for me.

I have certain criteria that I look at in a knife and we’ll talk about that right now, okay, so let’s get started on our knife discussion here a little bit and let’s talk about it, I’ve got a table or a bench of knives here. Basically, that are all knives that I have personally used over and over and over and over none of these knives are brand new. All of these knives have been tested thoroughly in a wilderness environment for a lot of different tasks.

So I can tell you, I feel confident that I can tell you what the pros and cons are of these type knives. Now the first thing that you need to think about when you’re selecting a knife is again back to what is that knife going to do for me versus what do I want it to do for me so for the sake of this discussion, because we’re talking about Basic concepts: let’s talk about this is the knife I’m going to strap to my tip, and this is the knife that I’m probably going to end up with.

If everything goes bad, I lose all of my gear that knife is going to be shot to my hip and it’s going to be my only tool that I have to use to affect my survivability and there is a big difference between that and a bushcraft knife That you carry in your pack as a spare where you put it around your neck or where the case may be totally against putting knives around my neck, but that’s beside the point: okay, so blade thickness.

That is your first key element to me. A knife that’s going to be used for a multitude of tasks needs to be 3/16 of an inch thick at a minimum. I do carry knives personally that are only 1/8 of an inch thick. This three dollar butcher knife from a yard sale is only a little over an eighth of an inch thick. It’s not quite 3/16. So if I had to measure it, you know it’s right in between there, but it doesn’t quite meet my minimum standard.

Although I’ve used this knife for everything under the Sun, so I’m pretty confident that in its ability to sustain me, it needs be this butcher. Knife is 3/16. This is the habilis Pathfinder butcher knife it’s 3/16, so 3/16 is a good thickness to start out with now. Let’s talk about why not at 8:10, it’s okay! Because generally what you’ll find is most knives will be 1/8 inch 3/16 and then quarter inch 1/8 inch.

Knife is going to have a lot of flexibility in it if the metal is tempered correctly and it may Bend on you or snap on you, depending on again the temper of the knife. I’ve never broken an old hickory butcher knife and they’re eighth of an inch thick. So an eighth of an inch knife can do the job for you, but it’s not going to be near as rigid or good for prying. If you have to do things like that, that’s 3/16, so there’s a little bit of a trade-off there.

I would say my personal opinion is 3/16 for beginning knife, though it’s going to be the one night that you buy to keep on your hip, and this is where you’re going to put all your eggs. Okay, in my opinion again, this is just my opinion. Your knife should be your most expensive item in your kit for the most part, or you should have the majority of your budget set aside for your knife, because that’s what you’re really going to stake your life on with that knife, you can’t do everything else.

If you have to as long as you have the skill level now remember during this article, there’s I’m not talking bad about any knife makers, I’m not talking about about any people who review knives on TV on on YouTube or use knives on TV. All I’m saying to you is: these: are my standards? These are the knives that I choose, and this is why you can make your own decision from what we’re talking about once we get beyond the thickness of the blade, then we need to talk about.

The tang is a full, tang, absolutely necessary. In other words, is it one piece of solid metal that the scales are both the two on both sides? Almost all of these knives, all of these knives are full tang, the knives I have over here or not again. I go back to if I’m going to get stuck with this one, and I have no other tools. I may have to do things like prying, hitting hard on the back of the spine, with a baton of some sort to process firewood.

All those types of things lend themselves to a weakness in a rat tail Tang knife, because it’s smaller, it’s not like that rat tail, tangs the same thickness, the 9 and 3/4. The way back to handle, generally speaking, a rat tail tang knife is exactly that. It shrinks down to a rat tail and then goes back into the knife, so that is a weak point in the overall structure of that knife. That could compromise you in a real emergency situation.

So I choose again: I choose to always carry a full tang knife on my hip and that’s my personal opinion. So all of these knives are full tang. Now, backup knife could definitely be a non full tang knife, and most of my backup knives generally are non full tang. We’ll talk about that in a few minutes. The next thing that I want to know on this knife is – and here again this is the these. Some of these things are kind of go no-go for me.

I can live with eight-inch if I have to I’d rather have 3/16, but there’s certain aspects of that night that I can’t live without or I’m not willing to do without. One of them is that that knife has a very sharp a 90-degree spine on it, so that it will effectively remove material from a ferrocerium rod, and there is a big misconception out there about ferrocerium rods and knives. Most of the time, if you’re having problems striking your Ferro rod, it’s not the rod, it’s the knife.

So what I’m going to do is I’m going to take a couple random knives here for you, I’ve got several different feral rods from cheap $ 5 Ferro rods. All the way up to $ 50 Ferro rods and we’re going to strike them with a knife and you’re going to see that, for the most part, they’re the same. Ok, so what we got here is we have a variety of ferrocerium rods. This rod is just a cheap rod, probably off of our website and the handle of been yanked off of it.

It’s been wrapped in duct tape. To give me a good heavy-duty handle most of the feral rods that you’re going to buy – and I say most not all most of the feral rods are going to buy. The handles are going to come off of them eventually sooner or later anyway. So I just take mine off on these cheaper ones and I wrap them in duct tape, so I’ve got an element of fire wrapped around it. An emergency plus I have this.

This duct tape is for no other use except a handle or fire. I carry duct tape, my kit for other things. On this side, I have arrived from Canton shop, comm, Rob Simpson spare rod, I’m very fond of these they’re good feral rods, they’re a little bit more expensive than wrapped in the leather. I think they come from deeply handcraft, I’m not sure that and they’re very good, fair rod to stick inside your knife sheet.

That’s what you like to do. This is a cheapie like a Coghlan model, ferrocerium rod. This is the Bob spark from fire. Steels calm. This rod is just a long blank fire rod that was made by one of my instructors, that has a copper, butt, end glued or epoxy Don and pinned in that’s filled with lead on the backside. So they can be used for a Bopper for napping, whether it’s for your flintlock or whether it’s for making arrowheads out of glass or flint, whatever the case may be.

It also gives you a good handle to hold on to and a large striking surface to remove material into your tinder bundle again. Cost difference is a lot here. You’re talking this one in this one are probably five bucks or less this one’s around 2025. This one’s around 2025 – I believe these things are around 40 50 bucks, so you’ve got a big difference there, but the bigger the rod is the longer it’s going to last.

A lot of guys ask me about this blocks of magnesium, with a little bitty rod going across the top of them. Those things are useless, in my opinion, you’re going to wear that rod out long before you ever get rid of that magnesium, and most all of your ferrocerium rods have a heavy content of magnesium in them. Already that’s going to burn if you can’t remove the material with your blade, that’s the important thing: it’s generally, not the Ferro rod that causes you the problems, it’s the blade.

Okay, I’m going to use a couple of different knives to do this stuff with first one. I’m going to use is the Pathfinder knife. This is made by blind or snobs. It’s called the PLS k1. The Scandinavian grind 3/16 own inch a little over a five-inch blade. This one happens to have curly maple handles on it. It has a good, sharp, 90 degree spine. So let’s try this one. First on just a cheapy rod. Now, that’s just as cheap II $ 5 rod.

Here’s the cheapy one off my website! You can see it’s removing enough materials! Hang it up on the back of the knife. Even here is the gob spark. Okay, canteen shop comm got to get the coating off of it. Okay. Now I’m going to show you what just happened here. The cap just came off of this. The leather coiled cap. Just came off of this. I’ve never seen that happen to one of these fair rods. Before that it goes right back to what I was telling you almost any fair rod you buy.

The cap is going to come off of it unless it’s pin through it’s going to come off, just wrap it with tape and go on and don’t worry about it. If you’re looking for something fancy, looking do yourself a favor make sure you got some duct tape with you when you get done here is the large barrel rod again, we’ve got to get the coating off of it once we get the coating off of it. It shouldn’t take a whole lot of effort when you do this.

If your knife is good 90-degree spine on it, it won’t take much effort, so you can see that all of those barrel rods will work just fine with that knife. Okay, this is the more of bushcraft black. We haven’t talked about this knife, yet it’s not a full tang knife. It is high carbon steel, which means it’s going to rust. If you don’t take care of it, but it’s going to be easier to sharpen in the field than stainless.

I prefer a high carbon we’ll talk about that a little bit in Y on our next exercise. But let’s look at what this will do and again it has that good 90-degree spine. So, let’s start with our cheap e Ferro rod here, pretty good the other cheap e Ferro rod, pretty good gob sport real good, the long heavy-duty one real good, the canteen shop. Pretty good! Ok, so you can see that as long as we have a good 90 degree, spine doesn’t really matter whether the knife cost 30 or 40.

Bucks like this one, we’re close to $ 300, like the Pathfinder knife, they’re going to do what you need them to do with the Ferro rod and that’s the important characteristic to understand. Will this knife be good for striking a ferrocerium rod every time I see someone take their knife and strike their ferrocerium rod with the blade of their knife? I know that person doesn’t know what they’re doing, because I’m never going to sacrifice my knife blade to strike a Ferro rod.

I can always use the back of this or I can find something else. If I can’t do that, but I’m never going to sacrifice my blade, this area of your blade from here to here from this curve back, is going to do. Two-Thirds of everything you do with this knife will take place right here. We’ll talk about that. A little bit too ok, so that gives us a pretty good look at one of the things that we want, our not to be capable of which is striking our ferrocerium rod.

A ferrocerium rod, in my opinion, is the most reliable fire-starting device you can possibly have in an emergency scenario. Matches are a one-shot deal, lighters run out of fluid and get wet all of those types of things. You need to concentrate your efforts on understanding how to use a Ferro rod with lots of different tenders, because a Ferro rod there is a very, very hot spark that will light up a lot of tender and it works even when it’s wet get yourself as big.

A Ferro rod as you can find that you can afford in the long run and carry that with you as your main ferrocerium rod. Alright. Moving on the next thing that we want to look at is the steel that this knife is made out of everything that I do with this knife has to be a multifunctional deal. Obviously, I can do a lot of things at this knife as far as making other things, and that makes it multifunctional, but it also needs to be part of my kit as far as being useful for at least three, I need to be able to start fire With this thing, as one of those chores or duties of my knife, and by scraping that ferrocerium rod that takes care of that element, but I would also like for my knife to be able to throw sparks from a hard rock in case.

I would lose my ferrocerium rod for some reason and all I’m left with is this knife if I can get a fire built somehow, because I made a bow drill set with my knife, I don’t want to have to go through that hassle, the second time. So if I can make char cloth in that first fire thinking ahead to my next fire and I can find a nice hard rock, I can use that to create an ember, then put in a bird nest and forego the whole bow drill.

Action on the next fire, so I want this knife to be made out of high carbon steel so that it will throw sparks off of the spine with a hardrock high carbon Steel’s. Oh one tool: steel 1095, while the Condor knives are made out of a 10 65 1070, not really enough carbon in them to throw a good spark. You see, there’s no Condor knives on this table, not because I’ve never used one, but because it’s not a knife that I would carry all of the time.

So if you’re going to ask me about other knives – and you don’t see it on this table – it’s because I either haven’t carried it, don’t carry it or I have carried it and don’t like it and don’t carry it anymore. These are the knives that I trust. Okay, so let’s talk about striking sparks with the back of our knife. So again, what we’re trying to accomplish here is turning our knife into an ignition source and we can do that as long as we have that high carbon steel blade.

So, let’s pick up, first of all, we’ll just pick up this butcher knife, what I’m going to do with my knives when I’ve decided I’m going to buy one. Is I’m going to do this first that thing’s throwing sparks I’m a happy camper? Now I know I got a good high carbon steel blade for sure. Even if I have no idea what this thing’s made out of yardsale three dollar butcher knife looks like carbon steel, it’s rusting up.

It’s got some patina to it. Let me take a rock to it: okay, now, I’m in business, does it have a good 90-degree spine on it yep now in double business. This is the right thickness. It’s pretty close as I got a good nice five to six inch blade on it yep. Okay now want that knife. That’s my factors now any knife that you have that’s high carbon steel and will, in fact, what we’ll do is we’ll get another cheaper type knife out here.

We’ll look at this more on bushcraft black again: does it throw sparks? Yes, it does okay. Is it throwing them as good as the butcher knife, not quite, but that could just be because the blade is like blue and not all this wore off yet, but I know this will start. It will create ignition with char cloth because I’ve done it. So if I have a high carbon steel blade, I’m going to be able to affect cognition that way and I’ll show you how to do that right now, up close, hang tight guys! Okay, so I have a charring 10 here.

It’s got some char cloth in it right here, so we’ll pull that piece of char cloth out and that’s what we’re going to use for this demonstration now, if I’m trying to strike sparks up my knife, there’s a couple ways you can do this, you can hold The knife blade like this and strike it against the rock. Exactly like you would do a striker, but I don’t like that method very well, because I’ve got my knife blade toward my hand.

If something were to slip, I could cut myself if I have to wrap something around the blade. I may not get a good grip on it, so I would rather strike down on the blade to the charred material. So we’ll pull a piece of this charred material off of here and lay it to the side. Real quick just like this, and what I like to do is lay that thing out and get as much surface area exposed as I can to catch my sparks and then kind of tack it down with my knife.

Just like this now I’ll lean my knife backwards. Just a little bit and I’ll strike sparks on to the char cloth, just like that. Okay, that out now, let’s look at the three hollered butcher knife. We’ll do the same thing. Get it out here, pin it down with the blade hold on the handle, push them down; okay, we’re on a fire all right. Now, let’s look at the pathfinder Scout bigger than the Pathfinder pls k, one larger in blade, size and blade length.

This is a six inch blade, it’s a little bit wider and so now the full flat grind, but it does have that 90-degree spine. It is three sixteenths, it’s just a little bigger more of a French trade or butcher knife style design. Alright sparks is going right by here. Here we go. Okay, we got a char cloth on fire, so you can see that a $ 40 knife will do it. A three dollar knife will do it. A $ 200 knife will do it.

It doesn’t matter how much the knife costs it matters, what the physical characteristics and capabilities are of that knife. Okay, so what I want to do now, real quick is: I want to kind to kind of go through some knives with you guys. One at a time show you knives that I trust doesn’t mean that there’s other knives on the market that aren’t good. But again, if you’re going to ask me what I think of this of that.

If you didn’t see in this article, that should give you an indication of what I think about it means I don’t carry it. Alright. Anything by blind horse knives is going to be bone. Anything by hapless bush tools is going to be a good knife. Anything by Moore is going to be a good knife, but it’s not going to meet all of the criteria that we talked about. Some of them are not high carbon they’re stainless, and none of them are full tang.

Alright. So, let’s start off with the Morris. The Mora bushcraft block is by far my favorite. It’s got a nice blue blade. It’s got a three quarter: tang nice comfortable, rubber over plastic handle here high carbon steel, blade, good 90-degree spine the blade on it’s almost a little over four inches long, and for me you know the minimum is about five. But again this is not going to be. My main knife, so it doesn’t have to be five inches.

This is another more. This is the Mora companion, another good knife about half a little over tang, maybe 3/4 rubber over plastic handle. You can see the blades a little bit less robust than the bushcraft block. It’s a little bit shorter, it’s not not as wide and it’s about the same, not quite the same thickness. So this is a heavier knife than this one, but does not cost more than this one. Both of them will do the job.

A knife. I’ve been carrying a lot lately as a backup or carving type knife or bushcrafting is this martini, and this was given to me by one of my instructors: solid rubber handle three quarter inch tang molded over. It’s got a really nice 90-degree spine on it. It’s good and thick it’s over 8 of an inch. It might be close to 3/16 Scandinavian grande. It’s a very short blade. It’s only a little, it’s a little less than 4 inches.

I think so. It’s not going to be a main night for me, but it is a great backup, skinning carving and crafting knife for my pack. This is the habilis butcher knife and this knife was designed directly after this knife. This is a three dollar butcher knife from a yard sale. This is the habilis butcher knife. It was designed and made directly to mimic this knife because we knew there’d never be another one of these come along, so we wanted something that was very close to an 18th century design with 18th century type, handle materials and scales.

This one has one two, three four five six pins on it, so that it’s more period-correct for something along the 18th century lines, solid, hardwood handles. They are flat, as many of them were back, then it does have the Pathfinder logo and the habilis Bush tool logo. On it as well, it’s a nice Scandi grind and scanned effects. It’s got a little bit of a convex grind compound grind at the bottom of the Scandinavian grind.

It’s got a good 90-degree spine on it and it’s made out of 1095 so it definitely meets all the criteria. Definitely a good, robust knife. Okay, now, let’s get 2 BHK blind horse knife a blind horse. Obviously, I’ve had a very, very long relationship with blind or knives they’re. Absolutely my favorite knife company Bar None in the world, their knives have never failed me and everybody. I’ve talked to says if they’ve ever had any issue with a knife that blind horse has replaced.

It without question so any guarantee like that is the guarantee I want they’re fit and finish is perfect. Their shops really nice I’ve been to their shop. So I know what it looks like. I know what the craftsmanship is: good, american-made quality, but again you’re going to pay for american-made knives. This is the Pathfinder Scout, the one that I carry probably 95 % of the time, not because I don’t like the PLS k1, but because this one has a little more versatility for what I do every day.

If I were going to have to choose one knife for an emergency, it would be the PLS k1. That’s what it was designed for. This knife is more of a hunting skinning butchering type knife. It’s got a big 6 H butchering style blade on it. European type. French trade knife style blade, 3/16 heavy heavy spine. Oh one tool, steel, curly maple handles it’s just a really really nice heavy duty knife – and I carried this one quite a bit.

The PLS k1 is the original Pathfinder knife that was made by blind horse knives. Scandinavian grind blades about five and a quarter inches long. It’s got some jimping on the top of the blade here, curly maple handles on this one, like I said, oh one tool, steel, heavy duty, 90 degree spine. This knife will do anything in the world that you want it to do and if you have it in, if it’s in the right hands of the person with the right skill, it can do anything you want to do from fine carving to processing firewood.

This is the muck, the Nemec with the Pathfinder logo, on it that’s made by blind horse Scandinavian ground, Nemec style blade, it’s basically a short butcher knife and I think that’s pretty much what nest Mehcad in mind when you had this knife made. If you look at this knife compared to a larger butcher knife they’re pretty much the same, it’s just shorter and squatty ER than a butcher knife. It’s got that same hump at the top so that it rides high over bone when you’re cutting with it.

It’s good for batani! I like this dished area right here, because that forces a lot of forces a lot of pressure right here to the belly when you’re trying to split wood and things like that with it. So it’s a really really good knife, but remember with any knife you’re going to about this. Much of your blade is where you’re going to do 90 % of your work. You know the before you get to the upsweep on the belly is where you’re going to 90 % of your work.

When I see guys carving, sticks and they’re making points on sticks out here on the blade. I know those guys don’t know what they’re doing, because that area of your knife should be the most pristine area, because that’s what we can use to process game. That’s what you’re going to use from very fine under cuts and notches and find carving tasks. You don’t want to use that for hogging material off to make points on sticks.

That’s what this area of the knife is for. Okay, just a little tidbit there, the nest McKnight’s are really really good. All-Around hunting type knife: this is the blind horse. Bushcrafter great cat part style, design, blade cat part style really designed knife for the most part. It’s got this Inlet in the handle, which makes it really comfortable for your finger. It’s got a nice round grip. As my instructor chair, jamie burly, always says, it’s like a broom handle doesn’t matter how you hold it.

It’s always going to be comfortable in your hand and that’s kind of one of the pluses to this knife for bushcrafting and things like that. It’s got a four inch blade on it. Like I said it’s got a cup art design spear point blade on it. This one happens to have a full flat grind. I think the ones they sell have a hollow grind. I’m not positive of that. Don’t quote me on that, and this one happens to have curly maple handles.

This is a really nice little knife that blind horse makes is the woodsman pro now I’ve carried this knife, not as extensive as I carried the others, but it is a really nice woodsy style design, knife for hunting and trapping, and things like that. It’s just not quite big enough for something to me to be beyond a carving knife or a skinning knife for a one tool, type knife. But it is a very good back up knife for the trapline for hunting for skinning and things like that, and this is called the trapline companion now.

This knife has got about a four inch blade on. This was an accidental knife. This is a knife that was made, another knife was messed up and this knife was ground out of it by Dan at blind horse knives and when he showed it to me, I fell in love with him. The reason I fell in love with it and decided to adopt it as the TLC is because it has a nice hollow grind, which means it’s going to stay razor sharp.

It’s got a nice little drop point right here for skinning and making money cuts on furs and hides, and things like that, and it has that small kitchen knife like feel to it. That makes it great for fine carving tasks and things like that. So for making feather sticks for doing fine under cuts and notches and all those types of things. This thing is like the Morra of the blind horse world, except this full tang and it’s high carbon steel with a 90 degree spine.

So it does everything for me. If it needs to okay, one thing: I want to talk about real quick in this article. As I see a lot of people talking about making feather sticks. How, well is the knife make feather sticks well depends again on how well you can handle the knife, and what your skill level is. A good sharp knife will make feather sticks. Obviously a thinner blade is going to make better feather sticks than a thicker blade.

So you have to understand the limitations of what you have, but even a blade that is 3/16 or thick like the Pathfinder knife. But it’s got a big heavy Scandinavian grind on which makes it really good for processing wood and things like that, and a good heavy-duty tool is not going to be as good for fine carving tasks as say this TLC, or even this martini or Mora, because the Blades are thinner, they have a sharper Scandinavian bevel to them and they’re going to make those fine cuts.

This one is hollow ground, so it’s definitely going to make fine cuts all right, but let’s look at these knives and when you’re making feather sticks, you’re not trying to you, don’t want this thing hanging out on a stump between your legs and you’re, trying to push The knife with both hands – that’s not the way to make feather sticks feather sticks, are a fine finesse, carving task I’ll tell you.

Nobody would complain about that butter. Stick! Okay! Out of a 3/16 inch blade with a heavy scanning grind on it. That is a nice feather. Stick that will take flame very very quickly and that’s the advantage of a feather stick. Is you have increased the surface area and made the material very thin so that it heats up quickly and combust faster, okay, guys? Well, I appreciate joining for this article I turn today.

I wanted to go over my mentality with you or my line of thinking when it comes to noise. I also wanted to talk you a little bit about understanding what you’re looking at when you read other people handling knives using knives, reviewing knives and things like that again. This is not a Bosch on any knife company. It’s not a Bosch on a You Tube reviewer. I just want to educate the people who are reading my articles as to what you should be looking for and be sure that when you read a review on any product, whether it’s a knife or a steel pot that that person has used that item.

And you can’t say that you’ve used an item by taking it to the woods one time or for five minutes or five hours or likely even five days. You need to use and abuse that item before you can really say what is worthiness is to have in someone’s kit, I’m Dave camera at five fire school. I appreciate your views, your support, everything you do for me for my school, for my family I’ll be back. Another article soon as I can thanks guys, you


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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My TOP 5 Neck Knives For Bushcraft

Let’s get started really saying this list is in no specific order than price point and to give you guys, quick rundown of these dives in case you’re, unfamiliar with any of them. This is, of course, the more a companion visiting Morra eldress. This is the S III. This is the LT right Camp muck, and this is the BRK bushcrafter, and these are my top five and I’m going to get into why I these five made it onto this list, probably know or have seen from this blog.

I have a lot of neck knives and I’ve used a lot of neck knives and so who really does take quite a special knife to actually make it onto this list, because I have many to choose from, but the more companion. The reason why this is one of the first on my list is because this was actually the first neck knife. I ever ran this one specifically in the first neck knife I ever ran alongside the Mora companion.

These were the first third, more companion, slash clipper were the first two neck knives for me to ever run and I ran them for around a year and a half, and I really liked them as far as performance goes. They are very good. The price point is incredibly hard to beat on them. Overall, this knife just was such an impressive knife and, like I was saying you know, I ran it for a long time, so I really understand how to use this knife and I think, for a good starting neck knife.

This one is extremely hard to beat. I really think the only thing that could really beat this as a starter. Neck knife is its newer brother, the L dress and the L dress. Once I got it, I was kind of one of the last people as far as youtuber viewers to go to actually get one, but now that I’ve got it, it is fastly becoming one of my favorite neck knives. Ever I mean really, as I see the more L dress, it’s like a every day man’s se as Azula.

You know it has a large handle, obviously for these mittens, it’s a little bit hard to show, but it actually can fit pretty well, even with very large men, unlike I have here today, but overall, as far as being a very small night list set around the Size of an ST masuleh, this knife is really really good and once again it keeps that characteristic property of more knives, and that is a very good value and a reasonably low.

When I was saying, I really love the moral dress and it is, in my opinion, really the only Mora that could really beat the companion as far as being a very compact, very lightweight, but still quite strong neck knife and one of the largest upgrades I see With Elle dress is not only that is a lighter weight than the companion, but they’ve actually sharpened the spine from factory on the L dress. So it actually throws me crazy, so I really have been in super impressed by it.

I think any of you guys have readed my a lot of my survival kit. Articles you’ll know that the L dress is pretty much the knife of choice for me, and it is that for that reason that it’s extremely small, extremely light yet extremely capable. So, though that is the companion’ /l dress, I really do love the companion once again, if you’re getting in neck knives – and you really want to get a good knife knife to begin with, you know: oftentimes a lot of neck knives are more expensive.

Like these. All three of these are over $ 100, so Neth knives can be more expensive thing to get into, but if you want really affordable ones, definitely turn to Mora. So number three is the S III. Ironically, that is not tying that way. It’s just how it worked out, it’s just a coincidence, but I really love the S III. This is actually one of my favorites of this entire batch just for the fact that I think it’s really good for bushcraft, but it’s also really good defensive, Neff knife and the reason why – and I’ve talked about this – I believe in the review – is because it’s an Ultra ultra slim night, I mean yes see the thickness on this I mean this is the thinnest as far as overall thickness like throughout the entire knife.

This is the thinnest knife. Here I mean you can see with all these other knives the handles they kind of swell out, and that is a little bit of a problem with long term use of the ac3. But when you carry this knife, it is super flat super low-profile. It does not. Stick out at all, so it makes it a really good defensive option, as well as a pretty capable field blade, and so this is how to make my list just for the fact that it, if it’s dualism it also in my opinion, is one of the most Perfect sizes for a neck knife – I know these smaller neck knives are great, but at the same time I do like personally just a little bit of a larger knife, and so that’s where the S III lines right off with me, and so I really like this One and if you do shop around normally these things are a little over $ 100, so normally like around 104 to $ 100 on Amazon, but I actually shopped around and found a killer deal on this one.

I got this one for like $ 70, so you can find good deals on se. Threes. You just really have to read out. You know, go to a lot of knife shops in particular. I got this one from knives ship free when they were doing like a blowout sale or this one I like, sell a whole bunch of excess stuff, so they were discounting it heavily. So I really liked this one. I was able to get it like. I said for a really good deal and this one’s a little bit of special one just for accelerations, it’s a green and Brent blaze orange as well as it’s a modified tang.

So I really like this one. I’ve been very impressed with it and, like I said what I like most about this knife, is that dual factor that not only can you carry this in a bushcrafting situation and still a very capable knife. But if you want a knife that also duels as your everyday carry neck knife or a defensive purpose, this is a very good choice. I want to a little bit more of an unusual one, I’d say in the LT right lineup.

This is probably one of their least talked about or more rare knives, and this is the LT right can’t muck. Now this is actually one and I’ll be doing the forward wellness and a bed, but this is actually one that came over from the. What is it long blind horse knife days and this one was the camp muck by blind horse knives, but of course, black horse knives no longer exists, but LT right took this design on and once again I think they killed it and additionally, a super capable camp Knife, it’s extremely good.

I’ve dressed several game animals, it’s extremely good at dressing game animals, it’s pretty good at doing just regular camp tasks. This is an a2 tool steel, so the edge retention is pretty good. Once again, it’s right around the same size as the SE. Through you can kind of see, you know it’s, it’s actually a little smaller than the S III and so fits right in there right in my kind of loved size range.

So I really like where this fall as far as the size range goes. It’s not too big, it’s not too small and one thing it’s a very unusual knife. It’s really awesome. I love that nest neck design. It’s not a design, you see very frequently anymore, but it’s still extremely capable and if you ever use an S, mukhda zine you’ll really love it. So that is the LT right can’t muck. This one, like I said, is an a2 tool.

Steel with black and blue g10 that is contoured, so I really love this setup. These are pretty tough to find like I was saying they are rare for a reason. I contacted LT right and they only make these every once in a long while in small batches. So if you want one of these, they’re really tricky to find, but just google them, you can likely find a company. Once again, one of my favorite places to get knives is nice ship free, not trying to do an ad for them, but I found both of the SE and this LT right there they only had this is the last one they had in stock, though so yeah.

These are pretty tricky to find that’s kind of my only hesitancy of making a review with them is. They are quite tricky to find and they’re not made very frequent. You probably one of my favorite. I guess you could say math knives. I’ve carried this or I carried this. This is decommissioned both of the companion and this one on our decommissioned. In case, you guys are wondering why you don’t see necklaces on them.

They long abundantly absolute favorites, but for a very long time it was one of my most favorite bushcraft knives. I guess a whole just an entirety of bushcrafting. It still is an extremely hard to beat night. If you really want to see the standard of what a bushcraft knife should be it pretty much is the bark of a nice bushcrafter, I’m not just trying to say that, because it’s an expensive knife, but overall the complete design on this and the way it’s laid Out the wave, the exit is just extremely good.

I have game animals with this knife, everything from grouse to squirrels, to hares every every really my shot, every type of animal except large, large game animals. I’ve dressed with this. It is an extremely capable knife, not just in stress in game animals, though it is also very good. At carving netting needles, try sticks really. This was a knife that I had to separate myself with, and so when I do a lot of like how-to articles, I don’t like to do it with this knife, just because I use this night so much I mean it is like my general purpose fix all Knife look: I just need a knife to do something.

I am 99 % sure this knife will do it and it’s made out of the excellent CPM 3v steel. It is an incredible steel. This 3 v it just goes forever. It’s an absolute trooper of a steel. It is a sharpened spine or at least a 90-degree spine, so it throws fair odds, marks very well. The handle’having. Now more experience I did when I first got this knife with handles. I will say, at least in the beginning of this, handle it’s a little too slender me, but still even now, it is pretty good.

Another thing I like about this knife as far as neck knives go. You can see that even with these gigantic mittens on – and these are a very large men in case you guys don’t know – these are not tiny little mittens, but even with these very large mittens on I solve a complete hold. None of my fingers are falling off. Even you know, with the mittens on the mitten is not falling off the back or really the front.

You know I can still fully use this knife, because this handle is quite large. This is, I think, the largest neck knife I have here, and this is probably honestly the largest size for neck knife. I would ever recommend but overall, like I said, if you’re looking for a standard of measure for a bushcraft or really not nice, this is it. I do think if you were to go with this knife, it’s really hard to go wrong with it.

It is expensive, I’m not going to lie it’s around 230 dollars, if not more, because some of the handle options, but it is 5 knives or neck knives for bushcraft. In particular, I could go into a defensive role like or everyday carry where I’m carrying neck knives for defensive or in a defensive role, and certainly it would change up a little bit. There would be other knives in this mix, but this one’s more specifically talking about outdoors knives and, like I said over my experience of years and bushcraft, would have been some of my favorite neck knives.

Hopefully, you’ve enjoyed that. Don’t forget to comment like share subscribe and tell me what your thoughts are. What are you guys’s, 5 top neck knives, or do you guys even carry neck knives? I’m not sure not. Everyone carries neck knives, but I certainly do and really love it. If you guys don’t carry neck knives seriously, think about it, anyways guys! That’s all! For now and I’m out you you


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Benchmade 550 Griptilian Review and Use

Please do not forget to comment like share and subscribe if you want to see more awesome, Alaskan content like that right into this review. This is actually the first benchmade night I ever got and it’s been a pretty awesome.

Benchmade I’ve carried it for quite a few years. I don’t really religiously carry it anymore, as there are other options and, of course, being an EDC care reviewer. I try and keep more knives running through the rotation, but this knife kind of is special because it is my first bunch mate and I ever thought, and so that’s why I’ve kind of kept it around and the other reason I’ve kept around is because it is Still, even though it has hateful serrations on it, it still is a pretty capable knife overall, especially in an everyday, carry setting, and so once again does, unfortunately have serrations, but back when I was first getting this knife.

If I was kind of one of those kids at that time, I really liked the whole black blades and serrations, and all that kind of fancy stuff that really it was kind of a trend of being cool. But the trend didn’t really last because practically plain edges just end up being better overall, so yeah. That is, but it’s basically why this one has serrations on it and, as you guys will notice, I tried my hardest.

It still was a little bit hard, but as I was processing up that pizza box of an awesome pizza company, I was trying to actually split some of the testing between just the straightedge in just the serrations. It is a little bit hard because this blade is not the longest blade, and so it can be a little bit difficult when you’re trying to kind of slice through something to just keep it on just the serrations or just the blade.

And I also did a little bit of intermixed, so you know if you’re just a straight slash right through that cardboard, you’d first catch the serrations and then the plain edge, so there’s going to be a little bit of. But I wanted to kind of show you guys what it looked like with just the plain edge and what it looked like with just the serrations. I will say I think the serrations had a bit of an easier time with part of the cardboard.

I think they might be a little bit better and of breaking up the cardboard fiber kind of just going right through it. So partially serrated blades aren’t entirely bad, but they definitely are not my favorite. They do have some batter applications such as fibrous materials like cardboard and especially ropes. Serrations tend to go through a lot faster, but at the same time they can be a little bit harder to maintain and overall, I think they kind of just don’t look that good.

Anyways, so my overall experience with this knife has been, for the most part, really good. I’ve really enjoyed this knife and there’s a reason other than this. Just being my first bench made why this knife has stuck around with me for the past, like five or six years, bunch mates, really it’s just an overall great knife. Now I currently have this one on a lanyard, because I don’t really like the benchmade clips, and so I thought I would just run this one on a lanyard.

I don’t run it that frequently that one I do occasionally run this knife. I kind of like to mix it up and just kind of throw it in the pocket and just kind of run it that way, because every once a while I do enjoy a lanyard knife instead of one that has a pocket clip on it. So that is how it’s running as far as retention or in the pocket carry as far as overall organ of expulsion, a far n handles there, nothing special it’s just like a plastic handle and you can definitely tell they kind of feel a little cheap.

But at the same time that that cheapness does pay off, because these knives are still pretty affordable for what you’re getting and so that the cheap material and the handles helps you to have a better blade material and a higher-quality knife at a lower price. So I really can’t complain about the material as far as the material does go. It has to to test the time and I’ve abused the knife quite a bit and accidentally like dropped this knife in the closed position.

Thank the Lord on things like stone and rock, and it has a few gashes in the handle to prove of that, but the handle hasn’t shattered or it hasn’t really cracked in any ways, though other than that the for the most part, the ergonomic still pretty squared Away this is not really a tactical knife, but it could be used in that way. You do have jumping back here for your thumb, and so it could. I will say I don’t know if the 550 having a kind of reverse sheet foot blade, is the best option for a tactical knife, because it’s not the absolute most pointy, because your tip is kind of downward sloping.

Certainly not like another knife. That’s similar like this. One and the primary reason why the nsync Oh grind is so much better at penetration is because Chris breeze has actually gone in and put cuts on the both of the top to both sides of the top of this tip and helped thin out the overall blade Material here and put a false edge on the top, so it kind of AIDS in penetration, so that I will say is why that downward sloping tip on the nsync.

Oh grind works so well, but this one obviously does not have that so other plate features that I do really enjoy are not the serrations cuz. I don’t really enjoyed those, but I do actually love the opening hole. I am a big fan of Spyderco knives. I wish I could have more of them, but right now only have one of them in the current collection, and even though I only have one, I still love all these Spyderco whole opening knives and including when benchmade put a spider hole hug their knives, regardless to How controversial that is or isn’t? I still really enjoy that? I really do like that, and I, like that, a lot more than 5:51.

I believe it is the one that just has the thumb studs, which is not bad. I have a few thumb stud bench maids. This one included and the 5d sexes – and so some studs are not the worst thing in the world, but I kind of like these whole openers more, but I do like the the whole overall. It also kind of lightens the blade stock a little bit more and as far as the 5d justify 50 goes, I do like the blade shape a little bit more.

This one is in a black. I forget the coating that they use for this, but, as you guys can see, this one has been heavily used in a bit abused on the tip and it definitely has a bit of a we’re on this coating. But for the most part, this coating is a pretty tough black coating and it’s not too tacky. I know some people don’t like st coatings, because they’re really tacky and this one just like any coating – does have a bit of tackiness to it.

But for the most part it is overall pretty smooth and, like I said within reason, pretty durable – I mean most of this tip kind of we’re here has happened when I actually stabbed this knife into some tin cans. This was really early on and I stabbed this knife into some tin cans to like make a Hobo, stove air or a couple Hostos actually, and that’s what actually primarily wore off this coating was that contact with the tin can on this steel, just kind of tough To clothing right off, so that’s a pretty and good abuse to take the coating off.

So I’m not too surprised to cody wore off when doing that, and then on the back of this, I also induced this knife quite a bit for striking feral rods, because it does have a pretty sharp back on it. So the back of this knife is actually the coating is pretty beat up because I’ll use it a lot to strike Ferro rods. As far as the lock goes, this is, of course, an axis lock and I love axis locks. If you guys haven’t noticed, I have or have had a lot of bench maids in the collection, and that is on purpose.

I do really love benchmade axis locks in particular, so overall I really loved their axis. Lock, it’s a fun lock to use. I really have a knife that smooth without a bit of side to side place so like these types of knives will have. You know just a little bit of side-to-side play, but that’s that’s because they’re so smooth or if I said over all up and down play is absolutely nothing and very solid lockup for six years and I do go in and I kind of clean this one every Once in a while, when there’s kind of dirt built up on the actual axis lost, because acting kind of at times hinder your lock up, but that’s about all, I do, for it blade centering for anyone who cares this one’s actually pretty well centered.

Now, on to the actual blade, as far as it goes and at retention, this is, of course a 154cm version, so this isn’t anything special. I know they’ve made some like s30v CPM, 20v blades and higher-end Steel’s for the grip, Tilian and I’m sure those work just like CPM, s30v, normally works or just how CPM 20v normally works in itself, but the 154cm on this works pretty well. I did get one off knife of a bench made barrage that I still have, which was my second bench made – that I think they over heat treated, because that one is really hard to put an edge on.

But I have a few, a CPM or not CPM but 154cm from bench made and they overall they don’t hold an edge forever, but they do sharpen up pretty fast and pretty easily this one included and it holds an edge for at least an amount of time. It’s not the most amazing steel, but it’s definitely better than something like 440 C or even vg10. In my opinion, and so edge retention is pretty good in that regard, the overall blade on this.

I think I would have enjoyed a lot more had it been a plain edge and I do actually really like the 550 in-plane edge. This serration version. A serrated version is not the worst in the world. It definitely in an EDC. Type of format does perform pretty. Okay, like you, can see how well the serrations weren’t able to chew through, like cardboard once again, rope things like paper. It kind of struggles with because there’s just so many angles of contact with a serrated blade that it can cause the paper or thinner material.

So you’re trying to cut to kind of like crinkle instead of just slicing right to brew it other than that. Like I said, I really don’t have any complaints, I find the blade length to be just fine for most EDC tasks. Personally, I’ve always been more a fan of these kinds of more wider and larger blades, so like with this 940 here you can see how kind of like pencil then this 940 is and some people they love just having like a really thin blade, but I tend To like knives that are more like that they’re Tilian here and more like this Sebenza that have more kind of width to them to just overall, they seem like larger, more well-built nice.

It’s not does it. This is not a well-built knife. I’m sure this is but this overall kind of gives more of a just feel like you’re, actually holding more of a knife, and I kind of like that in a knife personally and that’s more aesthetics, so anyways, that’s basically all I have to say on the bench Made 550 grip Tilian with this awesome, lanyard mod that I did to it and that’s basically all I have to say on it.

As always, god bless and I’m not


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Will An AXE Split A Chain In Half???

How this all came about was unpicked was reading a movie Cool Hand Luke and, in this movie Cool Hand Luke. I think the Paul Newman Character was able to chop his ankle chains and free himself with an axe and three strokes.

Today, we’re going to put that to the test For this test, we’re going to use some standard logging chain. I believe that this is 5/16 pretty heavy-duty stuff and The axe that we’re going to be using is, of course, a heavy duty chopping. Ask -axe of the basque design. I chose this one because it has a lot of weight to it and a big cutting area. So let’s put it up on the Block and see what happens So, our first chop We’re going to use a big-.

This is about a 6×8 Doug Fir piece of cribbing, And I’m just going to go directly onto the wood and to see -this is a pretty heavy chain. I don’t know if Paul Newman’s chain was going to be. It was quite this heavy, but we’ll see what happens. I fear that it’s going to push it into the block, If that happens, we’ll put start putting some harder surfaces on there, but let’s give a swing and and find out We’ll Glove up here.

…. Alright, let’s see… [ Chuckles ]. I don’t know about this. That might be some Hollywood, but we’ll see Oh Man, What happened there, So that was as hard as I could swing…. Got- it aimed- right there hit right where I was aiming there right across that link, And the problem is that the force of the axe pressed the chain down into the wood, and it just wasn’t enough backing there [ Chuckles ] That really pushed it in There that you can see.

.. Where’d, we strike right there, So we got through not very far, not very far at all, probably about 35… 35 % through the chain. So, let’s put a little bit harder surface on there, a little chunk of plywood and try it again and see what happens All right if we put a little piece of plywood across [ t ] here that that’s pretty hard We’re going across the grain rather than Into it and I’ll get a new piece of chain here and hopefully hit it Right there.

.. See, if that doesn’t, do it, Okay, going to go right there for that one, pretty small target here Hard as I can go…, Oh Goodness, That is a lot Of force and that didn’t work very well, either It just mashed it down into the plywood Boy. I’d say if you were on a Florida chain gang and you had a block of wood, to cut your leg shackles with you might Well, you might be there awhile. There might be a better option.

Okay, there we can see So that right there actually cut through even less than the first one That -I thought that that would have Been harder than that Well, there’s only one thing left to do and that’s to put a really hard surface down, which is going to be a little bit hard on the axe, But…. We can always fix that. Alright, how about a piece of mild steel? What if we put a mild steel on there, That’s certainly not going to press through This was the first strike.

The second strike, the third one… We’ll try to go right through there To see. If we can chop through that in one hit, Even against the wood, you can see we’re getting uh, certainly getting a little bit of damage on that axe, but still plenty of edge there. I don’t think we have any prob-. I think it’s definitely sharp enough, but let’s see what happens here, You know what I’m going to put some safety glasses on There.

We go hard as I can. What happened there? Oh goodness, look at that that did indeed cut through that chain-link. Look at that. It cut all the way through on one side and Almost all the way through. On the other side, You can see the first two strikes here. It looks like maybe hit the same piece right there, But I want to see if we would like to see if it’s possible to cut through that chain in one strike.

Let’s try it again. Let me see if I can swing it even harder That steel on there Will cut, try to cut through this one right here. It doesn’t have any Nick’s in it right. There See what we’ve got there yeah again. Look at that! That’s a pretty amazing! That’s a clean cut right through that that deal, But it didn’t cut all the way through I’d like to see if we could get it one Chop. If I hit it perfectly and hard enough, I’ve bent our bar there a little bit hard enough.

I think We could actually do it. There’s a lot of force there a lot of force. Let’s see, let’s try this piece right here. Okay, let’s give it all. We got a one chop through a logging chain And a piece of steel. The white Dodge pickup, a lot of folks, have been asking about that. If I got a new rig, It’s not mine, it belongs to a friend of mine, Who is one of the volunteers, for the fire department He’s putting a new transmission and he doesn’t have a shop to work in so he’s.

That’s why it’s here he’s just finishing up putting a new new tranny in and exhaust system. So If you were wondering okay, let’s pull this tight, I Really liked it would like to chop this I’ll. Try it one more time And see if we can get all the way through it, nice big heavy axe. Oh we did it. Let’s take a look at that, so it is possible. It is definitely possible. It works Sure enough. So I guess Paul Newman actually could have chopped his chains off with an axe.

There’s a link. You can see, there’s a certainly the two pieces and That’s good to know. I guess I’m surprised, I didn’t think I didn’t think you could chop through that with one hit, but boy that axe sure put to Put the hurt on that flat bar. Let’s take a look at the edge. I’ve been really impressed with these Basque Axes. You know a little bit of chipping right there, nothing that can’t be repaired actually quite easily, But that is very interesting.

You Know what I would really like to know is: can you cut a big fat cable with an axe? You know all those movies where they cut the cable, So here’s an old logging choker, That’s pretty much served. Its purpose is starting to fray and every time I grab it. Stabs me in the hand, I’ll be glad to get rid of it, But I always read, though you see those old movies where they’re like a fishing boat or the old Sailing ships or whatever they were, there, always get the axe.

You know something It’s it’s dragging the ship down And they always have an axe at the ready and they cut through those gigantic cables. On that I don’t know about that. This stuff is pretty tough, but let’s try it and see. This is probably about a Maybe a 5 – that’s probably a 3/8 cable. So it’s not an insignificant bit of cable. But let’s put that up on here and see if that will indeed chop in one hit: Okay 3/8 cable hard, as I can How’bout that Indeed an axe will definitely cut a cable, it’s multi-strands there, it cut through all of them, except for one little piece.

So that’s that’s, definitely a truth too Yeah that actually cuts pretty simple. There huh that’s kind of interesting, So there we have it. I hope that answers your question. Unpicked and axe will indeed cut through a Logging chain in one stroke, as well as a stranded cable. So Well that was fun I’ll spend the next hour working the chips out of that axe. So, just to to tell you guys, what’s been going on lately, So I haven’t been putting up a lot of articles because, as as you know, I’ve been on two wildland fires And I’m.

I guess I’m happy to report that I think wildland season is over. For the year It has been raining solid for two days I talked to the guys that are on the fire and they’re pretty much pulling everything and wrapping up and everyone’s under the Pretty much in agreement that the season in this area at least, is completely over. Just starting to get snow on the mountains, I think it looks like to the north.

There Mount Fuji. There is starting to get a fresh cap on it and it’s just incredible how quickly the seasons change when we were just sweltering in the heat on that fire. Back to tin, pants and warm clothes and long johns and getting ready for winter, so there’s a look, got a whole bunch of stuff To share with you guys, We’ll be finishing, bringing in the firewood We’ll be doing some work with the firewood processor.

I got a whole bunch of stuff to get ready for winter. It’s just today’s. I don’t want to get out there and do it, because it’s raining and it’ll stop here in a few days And we’ll get out there and get those last things finalized. We got a whole new load of logging, a log truckload of some really great wood That I’m splitting with a couple of the guys at the volunteer fire department. We got some nice lodgepole from the Warm Springs Indian Reservation, That is a bone dry, so that lodgepole makes really wonderful, firewood, smells great And we’ll be cutting that a bunch of that here pretty soon Anything else to report, I’m really enjoying the poison oak that I Picked up from the fire We, I have it on my neck and covering about a third of my body And that’s always a good time, if any of you guys have a recipe To give me some relief from that.

I would be all ears because it is absolutely miserable If you’ve ever had it in this area. It feels What it feels like these little like little drops of acid Wherever it is all of your body, And I knew it. You know it happens to me every time the same way, And I knew I was going to get it. What I, what we do is we have the all those fire hoses and we drag them around through through the forest, and It’s got that poison oak all over and that oil gets on that fire hose and when we were doing a back haul, we’re pulling All That hose and bringing it back in when we were done with it, You know we were throwing those big bundles up on her shoulder and I got it all over my neck And I don’t know if it’s spreading and I’ve got it on my legs and on My arms and it’s just hateful, It’s absolutely people.

What else was there something else someone to share with you? Oh The van the welding, so I’ve got a welder coming Brian who, But you guys, know Brian. He works for me a couple days a week. He’s actually he’s a pretty good TIG welder. Apparently he hasn’t done aluminum, but he’s done a lot of steel and chromoly Doing bicycle frames. We’ve got a Lincoln welder coming that we’ll be able to do TIG And I’ve never done it before so we’ll do some articles on that and kind of I’ll be curious to see how how well Me not ever being able to not welding with TIG.

I can get up to speed on that. I’ve always been something I’ve always wanted to try. So we’ll share that experience as well. Maybe Brian can share a few tips with us that he’s picked up. He seems to be pretty well checked out on it, But I guess that’s it. So, thanks for reading and we’ll see you guys on the next article


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No 6 Field Knife – Woodsman Collection – BeSpoke Post

My name is cougar, and this is another episode from our bespoke post series. This time we didn’t get one of the monthly boxes. I went ahead and opted out of the boxes, some of them weren’t once I was real real interested in, and I did see something that I did want to get as you can see. It is a long box and if you can read that right there it does say bare-bones and if you have readed some of the other episodes you may know who bare bones is we’ve got part of, as you can see here, the woodsman collection.

Now this is what I would consider and what a lot of a lot of youtubers, especially guys that I read and follow and and whatnot, would consider this to be a bushcraft knife. Now, as you can see here, we have the the knife. It comes with the sheath here and it has all of the kind of classic known features that are part of the bare-bones kind of series of knives and edged implements and and various other types of things.

What they have is an oil canvas sheath right here. It does have a liner on the inside of plastic liners, it does have their nice leather accent piece which is on basically any of the sheets that they have. You do have a leather, basically a leather snap, keeper here and the snap which is a, I believe. That’s either like a copper or a brass and then on the back there you do have a simple belt clip there.

I now let’s go ahead and take this out and, as you can see, it is a pretty decent sized knife. This is a six-inch blade, as you can see there, and then we also have a walnut handle, which is standard for all of bare bones kind of knives and everything they do. Have this little copper insert here to put a lanyard. Of course they have their little information thing here and now it does have two rivets here and a little seal stamp there.

The rivets here are actually screw in type. They use an allen key so or an Allen, wrench and you can take and tighten and loosen those up. I’m sure if you for some reason need to replace the scales, let’s go ahead and check out and see what our little note card says here. Alright, so looking at the little booklet here, it’s not real big just gives us some basic things. They do say that this was basically why this was designed.

They give you kind of an understanding of the premise of the design and how the why and how they designed it. The way they did the little quotes in here as well, and there is a cleaning and maintenance section here. They do say that, for the blade you should apply a thin layer of protective oil after each use, because this is a high carbon blade now something else that I will mention about this. You can see right here.

They fairly thick blade, but the interesting thing, I guess, is it’s a little different than what I’m used to seeing for something that would be considered. Maybe a bushcraft knife. Usually, I see them and they have something kind of like that, maybe like an apple seed kind of grind, which is, I mean, that’s kind of the shape of it or you have something called a Scandinavian or a Scandi grind. It’s basically flat until you get down fairly low on the blade, then it starts to chamfer in a little bit, and then you finally get to that point.

Where you’re going to put the edge on this one is actually a flat grind. Now flat grind is where you actually have it ground from top to bottom totally flat, and then you put the edge just on the very the very very edge of it. You put that additional that additional angle in to get the edge, so it does make it overall thinner it. It worries me in the effect or in the sense that you don’t have that extra material to support the edge like you do for like a Scandinavian or an apple seed type grind.

One thing I do want to see, though, is this – does seem to have very nice edge on it. So let’s take a quick look and see how this does on the old arm, hair here and yep. There’s the back, there’s the front right out to the curve. It’s just as taking the hair right off and yep, so nice and sharp straight out of the box, shaving sharp as they say and yeah yeah that cleaned that cleaned it off really easy.

So now, let’s go ahead and take this outside, we’ll see how it performs all right so we’ll try this ash right here see how she works. It’s pretty long. It wasn’t cut very good on the ends, so we’re just going to have to try and hold it here the best we can all right, not bad. You can just see some some of the marks from where it rubbed on the side bit. So surprisingly, this uh this dealt pretty well or this handled that pretty well.

So I think this is going to be a pretty good, pretty good, bushcraft knife for me. If you follow the link down there in the description below and you guys do join, I get a little kickback from that. So I got a little money back from that, but so do you so we both actually make out on it. You guys get some money off of your first order and I get a little money off of one of my next orders and also while you’re down there go ahead and check out our social media.

We got links down there for that as well. On your way, down are on your way back up, don’t forget to hit that thumbs up button as well as that subscribe button. If you haven’t done so already, either the red one down below the article or there’s going to be one floating around in the corner or something like that and you can click on either. One of those make sure you hit the bell there is that little bell icon.

It is going to notify you of when we have new articles coming out here on world of me. Alright, everybody! Well my name’s cougar. This has been another episode from our bespoke post series. I’d like to wish you all a good day, and I will see you later bye,


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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North Carolina Bushcraft Meet up At Historic Harmony Hall For February 2017

This is where i’m going to hold the bushcraft meet up at and i’ll. Do a give you our tour as soon as I can, but there’s all those buildings down there, there’s an old general store or old church old one school, one-room, school building, trapper’s cabin, all sorts of stuff, but um and there’s harmony hall.

That house was built in 1768 and is still standing. There’s a cabin over there that cabin used to have a family of nine people living in it and they would come outside to go up the ladder to the loft and that’s where they slept. But when we do the bushcraft meet up out here, people can can’t be anywhere out here in the woods. They won’t anywhere right here on the property they want. We’ll have tomahawk throwing contest on them.

Targets over there, see them and knife-throwing contest. There’s the bathroom right. There, if I could give you our tour in there cuttin, there are there’s all kind of stuff out here. The winds going to be blowing real hard today, so I don’t know how good this is going to pick up my voice. We got picnic tables all out around all around, but um the property goes on back way. On back so I mean there’s no shortage of space to count plenty plenty of space to kill them.

We’re going to have a ball out here y’all. I hope everybody can make it show you inside the bathroom here you got the sink. If you need to wash up kind of tall it over there. We do have a heater in here. It will be warm in here. You know. The dates are the 23rd. 24Th. 20 fear hold on. Let me look at my phone. While I tell you our baits later. Let me pull it up, but um I’ll get back with y’all later and check on I’ll.

Show you right here what I’m doing them cooking some deer stew. All of this is homemade. Deer stew got a lot a lot of meat in it. A lot of carrots, a lot of potatoes, celery, onion filled up with beets buck beef broth and it’s going to be great anyway eat some. But we do that because today’s decoration day they’re going to decorate the house for Christmas, but um this whole place right here. Y’All, it ain’t nothing but history all out in the woods their their stuff that we’re still finding.

I found a foundation out there years ago that nobody knew about, and you figure back in the war days or 1768 when he built this house there. What no rolled out here this was actually the back of the house, which we look at this, like it’s the fun of the house, but this was the actual back of the house and there’s a path over there. That goes to the Cape Fear River, and that was their means of transportation was the river.

So I’m a lot a lot of history out here man. I love it that right there. That you’re, looking at in front of me, is the blacksmith’s shop. We do have a blacksmith out here from time to time. This is where it works, when the I probably can’t see did in their kids too dark. But the play does all this blacksmithing from lots of history. I love history, but on this is going to be from Thursday it’ll be Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, the last Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday of februari.

If you need more information, I’m going to put my contact information in the description, email me and I’ll tell you anything. You need to know its twenty dollars per person per head. Children are free adults, its twenty dollars per head and all the money goes to Harmony Hall to help him restore a shin and keeping the place up and all that. But we got a big stage over there. If anybody wants to get on stage and play that guitar and sing, they do that sometimes out here they have a bluegrass Pamela.

I don’t know if y’all can see it through the woods over there, but there’s stage right out there, but when we do reenactments out here we camp all over the place. You know we have those pup, tents or whatever we bring, but i’ll tell you all more later, hey y’all still out here cooking, as my sister tammy she’s out here with me. My niece Nicky is up there, helping them decorate the house zoom in for you.

I can see that sorry about the wind, but we’re having a good time out here, decoration day, show y’all what the stews looking like falling. Looking good we’re using a homemade stare need all that mean we’re going to have a ball out here and that’s going to be good. I can’t wait to eat it, smells so good or make your mouth water, but um we get back with your mum. Give you all a tour or a small tour, just show you the buildings here, I’m going to go all the way down there and work my way back up, but um I’ll get back with y’all, then hey again, folks I’ll show y’all.

This is a thing that I won from Donnie Pavel Eenie outdoors y’all check them out. If you can text them out already. This is a whole little cook kid all you need is the canister. If the Camp Chef Mountain series, striker special coffee, watery, just put it on while ago, I already got bubbles in it, but I want to show you all that keep back with y’all ready, hey folks. This is the beginning of Harmony Hall right here.

This is an old general store and I’ll give you our tour through that one y’all get here for the bushcraft meetup walk down and show you everything. That’s here over there we got what’s called wonders cottage, but they’re actually written that out to somebody. So we can’t go there, somebody’s ringing, the bell just give you all quick, look at all the buildings here that building right over there that’s old, trapper’s cabin – I don’t know if that’s going to be where we can go through it or not, it’s got to be Holding the roof right now, but everything out here is so historic.

It’s amazing! You got the trapper’s cabin there over here. Next to it, you got the one-room schoolhouse zoom in on that feel back there you got an outhouse old, outhouse, sorry for all the shake and I’m walking while I’m talking over there. We have a history class here, that’s decorating everything for Christmas. That’s the one room! Schoolhouse i’ll be giving y’all a tour through there, here’s the old church over there.

I want me to undo there, let’s get back with y’all when I get to the next limo over here this house it in very, very historic. I think I actually think it’s a 1970s house, I’m not sure, but it’s going to be a lot of fun out here. I got through doing the deer stew and everybody loved it. That was great, but on the bushcraft meet up i’ll, be doing deer stew and hopefully deer steaks too. I’m sure other people bring food too.

That’s just an old house. There ain’t much to it over there. We have another general store. All these buildings were brought here. They’re just historic buildings and they brought them here, made this kind of like a park. The only original building here is the harmony hall plantation house, but it’s so unique. If you love history, there’s the other old jar store right there. That’s the Tatum store should be able to give you our tour through there too.

I walk up here, we’ll get back by the way when y’all get here. Y’All can camp out here in this field. If you want camping the woods back there by the house, if you want there’s all sorts of places you can camp out it, they have plenty of room for, as many people wants to come, won’t be no shortage of spots to count. Here’s the Harmony Hall sign. This is like a little security cabin here, it’s a gatehouse and over here you got this one.

I camped out inside that this one before when it was 17 degrees out here when we was doing a reenactment, but this is the butler barn got, can pause it and read that real nice. I love it out here to come out here and feel like you’re walking in the 1700s about what it feels like. This is the blacksmith shop. He might even come out here while we’re out here. I’m not sure we do have one blacksmith. It’s been a little grandson, Evan Mickey my niece sister Tammy where’s Sasha.

She look like Bon Jovi rocky up here we got the Harmony Hall house limping off history club up there decorating, then there’s the one more Kevin over there. Nine people lived in that cabin I’ve. Already said that or not that’s, it will be camping all out here, all through the woods all over here. There’s a fire pit back there and another fire pit up here before I cook. The stew today cut the one bathroom over there and it does have a heater in it to stay warm over.

Here we got the tomahawk throwing targets and knife, throwing whichever you want to throw. This is where we’ll have to contest that and I’ll have some kind of prizes, i’m not sure what yet I used to come out here all the time with all the time I hope they’re fun, but that’s about it. I’m in the path down to the Cape Fear River, so y’all make sure you mark this on your calendars and come on out. I hope to see all y’all are here.

I know I’ll be here for sure. If y’all know briar goat killer he’ll be here and little man, his son, Donny Pavel Amy’s, working on trying to get here, you don’t know if he will or not and Mike where’s from absorb self-reliance he’s trying to get here. So y’all marketer encounter and come on out hope to see either y’all take care.


What are you eating? Check out the video below to find out about a healthy snack.