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Curly Maple Chef’s Knives: Xmas For The Brothers and Sisters

I work on. These are Destined to be gifts eventually, I wanted them to all be similar because they’re Going to be for family members, I wanted them to have the same look to them, but I Also wanted to have a little bit of differentiation between them.

So I’m going to make the majority of the handles out of this curly maple and then I’ll be adding exotic hardwood segments, I cut them all to length and then I am Putting a diagonal cut in there, so I can insert the hardwood. I marked them so They would all be in a similar spot, but it’s really not critical of these are Exact because it’s not a set, I just wanted them to look similar. The accent Pieces are going to be red heart wenge, black palm and Osage orange.

I took Those pieces over to the belt sander since I cut them on the table, saw they Weren’t completely flat on that one edge I was holding in my hands. There’s a Little bit of movement – and I wanted this joint to be very tight because you’ll be Able to see in the finish scale pretty easily if there’s any gaps since they’re Such thin pieces also just for the glue bond. I wanted that strength. There Making a laminate out of some veneers – and this is going to serve a couple of Different purposes, the first is purely aesthetic I like to have a little bit of Pinstripe between the species of wood, also, since these are going to be Multiple pieces, I wanted to have something tying them together on the Back between the handle and the top of the scale, the way I oriented the grains Of this, wood is going to give them some extra strength, so there are ninety Degrees to each other, then that glued onto the back of the maple and the other Woods and there’s going to give more stability, while I’m working with it and Then hopefully, when it’s ultimately on the knife, it will too I slipped that Plastic wrap in there so that the pieces of veneer don’t stick to each other.

When the glue bleeds through when they’re clamped, while those are drying, I Turned my attention over to the pins that are going to go through the scales, I’m Using brass tube and I’m making a mosaic pin for these they’re going to be 4 Knives, so I’m cutting four sections of this brass tube. The way I make them, I Have to make them relatively short, because the epoxy won’t squirt reliably All the way, through, even with this length, there was a few little gaps.

I had to fill in after the pins were done for this. I’m Using TIG welding wire with the size of the brass tubes, these happen to Fit perfectly in there with three: it was a tight fit, so they weren’t going to wiggle Off center, when I started gluing them up, and it’s also going to have a nice Contrast between the black epoxy, the yellowish brass and then that White steel, With everything cut to size, I could start mixing up the epoxy.

This Is a five minute epoxy and get it at any hardware store the pigment I always use. Is it’s cheap? It’s readily available. You get it off. Ebay, they’re little baggies! Of pearl powder, like you, would add, to automotive paint, I use a syringe and Take the needle off and then you basically get some of that on the little Pieces of TIG wire and then you can squirt it in through both ends and when It starts coming out the other end.

You know that you’ve kind of pushed all the Air out of the system, the other thing I’ve heard of people using for the dye Is just Rit dye powder? It’s like a fabric dye have a try to myself, but Anything the colors, the epoxy, should work coming back to the scales you can See that those veneers that I had I cut up into small pieces, this I’m putting in Between the parts in between the hardwoods and the curly maple, I use Contrasting woods for those sheets of veneer, so you’ll kind of get a two Pinstripe effect and then I put the lighter parts into the darker wood in The darker parts out next to the maple, so to really pop a little bit more.

I put The pieces of wood on both sides of the veneer that way I could get more even Pressure and really get clamped on there well, when those had dried for a little Bit it was time to glue them into the the maple. I did this in two steps: Whenever you start getting these angles in there, it makes gluing them up a Little bit tricky, you can’t put a whole lot of pressure on them. Otherwise, They’ll tend to slide off, so it’s kind of a balance between getting just enough So that they stick together and not enough, so the glue joints weak, you can Get them to just stick together with the pressure of the glue, but I noticed some Of the ones I did that on especially on the second part, I couldn’t Get them to not slide, there’s a couple that kind of delaminated a little bit That I had to glue back together when I cut him in half and I’m wondering if Those weren’t, the ones that I didn’t clamp the other kind of funny thing that Those angles did was to the eye.

It was hard to make sure that the two pieces of The maple are parallel if they didn’t slide off relative to each other and Since these weren’t a whole lot wider than what I needed them to be in the Final product, I did need them to be pretty spot-on on there. I started Clamping them together and then sticking them on that flat piece. Of wood that way, I just maintained that as much thickness As I could to we get us work, it was some relatively tight tolerances.

I had Some extra to play with, but not a whole lot for a lot of things. I’m a Harbor Freight fanboy, but I would not buy a cordless drill from them. The batteries do Not hold a charge overnight. What I’m trying to do here is the pins had a Little bit of epoxy on the outside, just for me handling them. I needed to Get them back down to round and back down to the size they were before so They fit into the holes in the knives, so I’m taking it and just Chucking it up in the drill and running some sandpaper over it.

At this point, the Final dimensions are starting to get dialed in on the knife scale, so I am Making a template on the knife blank and it was really important where those Holes fell in relation to that diagonal stripe if they weren’t centered on it or If they were off, I thought it would really look funny in the final knife. So I was taking a lot of care to position those exactly where I wanted them and Then I’m trimming off the top part of the blank there on the table saw before I put the veneer backing on these.

I wanted to make sure that they were Really straight after that last cut, so I’m going back on there. I marked over With some pencil and then I can set them on their flat and whenever all the Pencil marks are gone. I know that I’ve hit all the regions that they’re all Level, for that part, that’s going to hit up against the knife. This was one of Those design changes that made it a little bit harder, but I think it was Worth in the finished product, the hard wood caps I’m putting on here, I would Have done it while the two sides were together, But I didn’t really know until I saw it with just the maple all the way up.

The Night, if I didn’t didn’t really like it, so I came back and trimmed them and put The caps on so at this point I’ve gone back and I have ground them flat on the Back a final time, this veneer is actually the second time I had to do. That I had some adhesion problems with the first one, where I didn’t get quite Enough glue in the joints, so the pieces of veneer were separating anyway. It went Back, I got those corrected and I’m using this tape.

In-Between and again, it’s just The same reason I used that plastic wrap the first time was that way, these aren’t Going to stick together, the veneer is thin enough that if you put enough glue In the joint it will bleed through and just that enough, that bleed through is Going to make it really hard to get them unstuck, after that, it was just a matter. Of letting them dry it till the next step here, I’m making a final set of tape.

Templates since the scales are at this point basically finished other than Their final shaping I’m doing a little bit different. This time. I thought I Would save some time by getting these scales to the exact right size before I Glued them on the knives. I thought this was going to save me some time, because when You put them on the knife and then shape them. You never to get scuffs on the Spine of the knife that you have to polish out trying to avoid that.

I think I took one step forward and two steps back, because I ended up having to shape Them anyway, I just couldn’t give them lined up exactly properly when you shape Them on the knife: it takes away all of the wood right down to the steel, a Little bit the steel too, but it makes that fit really precise. At this point, it’s Time to attach them on to the knife and start making the holes for the pins to Go through I’m using just regular Brad point wood drill bit, but I’m making sure That it’s pressed up tightly against the backing plate because I’ve had a lot of Instances where I’m coming and the scales are basically completely done.

And then I bust, through them, with the drill Bit and blow out a bunch of grain on the back, so you really don’t want that to Happen so I’m taking all the precautions I can against it after I have the one Side done, I flip it over position it and then I’m putting the pins all the way. Through that way, they’re going to be in their final And this is another thing where, if I shaped them, when they’re already on the Knife I can just glue one side down and drill through and then glue the other Side down the pins go right in, I don’t have to mess with having them in there.

Anyway, so I put the pins through and then I’m marking around the edge Figuring out where I want the top of that to be, and I’m going to take it over To the belt sander to get those exactly where they need to be, since there was Quite a bit of that extra hardwood on the very top I didn’t use the belt Sander to get the tops, even I came and used a handsaw just to get the Majority of the material cut off so I could shape them, so it was kind of Interesting and doing four of these at the same time, usually I don’t do any production runs of anything, so I’m always just doing a one-off and it’s Just kind of a fun creative thing, but when you start doing the same thing and Even just four times over, you start seeing the little tricks and you just do.

Each one a little bit better and you can really progress with your skills on on Whatever you’re doing in a way, you can’t when you’re just doing one at a time, The other thing I really noticed was how much time it takes to move from tool to tool And step to step when you’re just doing one, I didn’t really think about it. That Much but you know you’re spending a lot of time getting stuff out putting stuff Away we’re in this one: it’s you get it out, you do it four times and then you Can move on to the next part? At this point, I still think that I’m getting These scales precisely finished before I glue them on the knife, so I’m going Through getting them to the final thickness, no matter how you do it, you Have to do this top part and get it finished before you glue it down on the Knife, I clamp the two pieces together that way they would be exactly the same.

Heading back to these pins, I’m just using a dremel to cut them off to size. Each pin had a knife’s worth so three pieces trim them down. You can Ready to stick in there using the same kind of five minute, epoxy that I was Using for the inside of the pins, this time, of course, is not colored, but going Through getting a little bit on the pins a little bit on the back of the scale, Then glue down since they’re shaped pretty closely I can do both sides at once, but it mixed up only enough epoxy for one of these at A time I definitely couldn’t have gotten through all of these in five minutes and The stress factor would have gone way up if I was trying to move that quickly.

So Figure is better to just give myself a little bit of extra time and just mix up Enough for one or two at a time, the final one with the Wenge insert It definitely would have tripped me up and made the epoxy set up too quick. It wasn’t fitting quite right: the holes had gotten a little bit misaligned when I was drilling him, so I end up having to hammer them on and there was a little bit Of a crescent on the bottom of one of the holes, I filled that in with epoxy Just because Lowell was a little bit too big on one side, so I could make it fit.

Through all the way with all of them, I made sure to get as much the epoxy off Beforehand as possible, before it cured here, I’m setting up to grind the pins Flush with the handle I like to let this stuff sit overnight, because you build up A lot of heat, even if you’re careful to switch around the five-minute epoxy, will Feel like it’s set, but it’s not quite fully cured. You can blow it out and make The pins start moving if you get too much heat in there so better to let it Sit for a while this is what I was trying to avoid when I made those scales The right size – and I just couldn’t get the fitment quite right, so I came back And I end up having to grind the back of the knife down a little bit to make him Exactly flush, I was coming up on my Christmas deadline.

This is actually a night or two before so I needed a finish that was going to work. And it was going to work on the first time whenever I need that I always go to a Wipe on poly the film thickness isn’t really thick But since these are going to be chefs, knives are going to be getting wet, getting Water on them, so I wanted something that had a physical barrier between the user. And the wood on the knife so yeah wipe this on.

I sanded between coats, just a Little bit with a high grit sandpaper, I did about three or four coats on there. And let them dry in order. We have the red heart. First, the Osage orange Which is a really cool, curly piece of wood, the black palm, which I thought Turned out really beautifully and then finally in the wenge, these are some Really satisfying ones to make the curly maple really popped, and you can really See the grain the pins turned out really well in the Past I’ve had issues with the parts on the inside being a little bit.

Off-Center But with how those fitted there, they just fit it in perfect doing these over I think I would have tried to put a piece of the pinstripe between the Hardwood cap and the maple body, it was just a little bit too finicky for me to Try to take on with them already split down the middle, but a little detail in The end and I really like how they turned out, I wanted to thank you guys, For taking the time out your day to read my article, I do really appreciate it.

If you liked it hit that like button, if you haven’t already I’d love to you, hit The subscribe button to get more and also it really helps if you share these If you know anybody that would like this article, hey everybody, I want to let you Know that I’m starting up a patreon campaign, if you guys, are feeling Generous I’d love it if you’d check down in the description, there’s a link down In there to my patreon page, where you can donate otherwise, I really appreciate Your continued support, just by reading the articles.

Thank you.


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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Frist Impressions: Opinel Knives and an 80’s Boy Scout Knife

This is the open, L, carbon steel and it’s the number seven it’s made of beechwood and, of course, like I mentioned, the blade is carbon steel. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to do a carbon steel blade or if I wanted to do a stainless steel, and I opted to get both this one. I got locally because it was available and this is the number seven and then I also recently got it still in the box, but I thought I’d show that as well.

I got this off of Amazon. This is a number eight and this is done in olive wood, so open that up just a little off camera here and I’ll show you the difference in size and the difference in wood. Here we go so this is the unit move that down and it’s done in a stainless steel blade and it’s done in olive wood, and this would be the number eight which is always labeled there on the rim. Now, on this little locking mechanism, it’s really interesting knife.

So if they didn’t have this locking mechanism, I’m just going to turn this back to Center this one’s a bit tight, then it would just be up-and-down, and originally the knives from opinel were like that they were just a nice piece of wood. You would open up the blade, I mean notice, I’m doing this with two hands, because this one’s quite stiff, this would be it. The blade would stay open when you’re pushing applying pressure on it.

Obviously it wouldn’t go back down, but there would be a chance that it could end up opening up in your pocket, and so I’m assuming just with that in mind and I believe around world war ii opinel invented this little lock ring. And this allows you to turn the ring right there, as I just did, which will lock the blade from opening and if you have it opened it will then lock the blade from closing and i’ve seen a lot of articles out.

There were people put in. Quite a lot of pressure downwards on this to try to force that – and this does a really good job. This locking locking does really a job. So here we can say the blade of the olive wood. It says in ox which I believe in French is translated to like na trustable in aqsa dibala. I may be wrong, so excuse my friendship. I honk it is a nice nice, somewhat shiny, blade. I’ve heard a few things about the the difference between the blades.

So I’m going to leave this open with the olive wood and I’ll open up the number seven besides a size. That’s why I wasn’t sure which blade to go with and or I wasn’t sure which steel to go with, and then this is the number seven. This one is the number eight. This is a standard model here. This is beech. Wood, like I said this is olive wood. The beech wood comes quite standard with the base models, and these are not.

These are quite reasonable. This one particular one, I believe, is about twelve dollars and maybe less on some stores cost me about twelve dollars plus tax. This one was closer to twenty, because the carbon steel requires a little bit more maintenance. Some people aren’t really fancy to it. The stainless steel doesn’t require it won’t rust, whereas the carbon steel could potentially rust. So there are a lot of youtubers that will put some form of acid on the blade to force a patina, and if you don’t do that as long as you like make sure that it’s not in a moist setting it’s it’s staying dry, then over time.

It will develop its own patina, which can be really nice. The other really nice thing about carbon steel and I readed another YouTube article and if I remember the name I’ll put it up in a little box at the top here. But they were talking about how they like their the the flat edge at the back. And I’m going to close the knife, so I can show you with the knife, closed and locked, there’s this flat edge here and you could use that.

Let me just make sure it’s in focus. You could use that against a striking pad of some sorts, a flint per se, to start a fire where it’s a stainless steel. You wouldn’t be able to do that, so that can be really nice if you were taking this out camping. I also, if I’m honest with you for EDC I’ve had these for about a week now, both of them I’ve carried the carbon. I got this one first, so this one less than a week, but but for the most part a week for both I’ve carried this one for a few days in my pocket and I’ve carried the number eight, this number seven fits perfectly in my pocket.

It disappears. I don’t notice it. I’ve used it to go down and open up some parcels that have arrived. I’ve taken it with me to open up other forms. I’ve had to cut some other things randomly, and this has been great. There have no problems with it. Like I said, it’s super lightweight disappears in the pocket now the number 8, though I think the number 8 fits my hand a little bit better. It’s just it’s almost the perfect size for the hand and the blade length is really nice with it.

It’s because they obviously take it and scale it up. The wood is quite the circumference of the wood is quite a lot bigger, and this means that there’s a bulge in the pocket. So I don’t. I don’t like this much as much in my pocket as I do like the the number 7, so you can see in my pocket. I don’t have these technically together in my pocket. I may have it with my lip job. There’s some burpees! That’s about half the size, so comparing it with the number 8, then I could take the number 8 out now I’ll.

Take this one out place it. You can see that it is much taller right, but it’s more the circumference! I don’t know if I can put these on top of the circumference of the knife is bigger. Now between the Steel’s, I’m really fancying the carbon steel. I like things a patina. I like the fact that it has a few other purposes that you could use it for, especially for EDC and for camping reasons, and I think I like the fact that the number 7 is a little easier to carrier carry.

I wish that the carbon steel was offered with different woods. That’s my wish. I really like this olive wood. I, like the walnut out there, there’s lots of different wood options. You can choose, but carbon steel is only offered from my understanding right now on opinel. It’s only offered on the beech wood and it’s a standard blade, which means it is the base model and then, of course, these things can go up as high as like few hundred dollars, depending on that not necessarily the type of stainless steel, but whether it’s polished And the type of wood you can get wood all the way from Africa, olive wood from the Mediterranean.

You can get oak dark oak lots of things. You can even get a blade. That’s black, like a black stainless steel blade. So those are those knives. My first impression is I like them. I think these things are great, like I said, really lightweight both of them. Obviously, the heavier models will go up. The wood mate depending up you won’t go with a stainless steel. Knee just ride, decide to change the wood.

The wood may be a little denser than other woods, but both of these woods are quite light. They fit really nice in the hands. I like them, locking mechanism when it’s locked the blades not going to go anywhere. I will say that the carbon steel came out of the box with a super-sharp and it’s it’s still ridiculously sharp and the seal is still not so much, and I’ve heard other viewers talk about that as well.

Like I said, these are very reasonably priced. Any of these would be fine. I’m heard lots of viewers that have had a stainless steel for years and then just decided hobby wise to go to carbon. I think I’m most likely going to stick with this more as an EDC. I may or might not keep this or may or just put in my camping kit or may even give it to a friend as a gift, because they’re quite reasonable.

If you have any questions about open all knives, I’m going to put some links for both of these in the descriptions below both of those links are where I purchased the knives. So you can follow those I’ll put something up, put a link for the actual website of opinel, so you can look through there. The knife I’d like to get is the gardener’s knife, which has a nice rounding handle on it, but the one thing that I would like to see it again as I’d like to see if it if it eventually came with a carbon blade from so I’m going To show you in the package that first came with this says Boy Scouts of Canada, and it looks like this is like a bench and leather, because it’s slowly fading.

I’ve used it for these last couple years. Camping and it’s been great, but it was a little whiter prior to me using it and if I take it out of its sheath and just move that to the side. This is the knife here, so it came with this original string there. It says Boy Scouts of Canada that it that is, and it ends up focusing. It’s got some brass, I believe, on the sides here, some brass rivets looks like it’s a stainless steel.

You can see some patina on the knife and a nice hole. It is quite heavy, especially after carrying the opinel knives. As far as the knife goes, we’ve got a knife section. This is going to be a longer knife than the open, L and I’ll try to lower that down. I don’t know much about knives to talk about like the belly and all that or the blade or the or where the edges is I’m just I’m new to all of this thumb things I was just doing some research to get a knife that would be to Replace this for weight reasons, but also to replace this, because it’s not holding an edge very well.

You can see it’s stainless steel made in China, so I don’t know if that’s talking about the quality of this, like I said it’s a boyscout blade, it does lock. The locking mechanism is down here. You can push on the locking mechanism and then it folds back in, and it also has a saw so I’ll – show you that so I was a little stiffer to get out. There’s your saw bottle opener and a flathead screwdriver.

In the end I have used the saw when I was boy scouting to do a couple fires and to chop down some specific kind of wood and again it locks as well. So you push would have to push the lock and then you could pull the back in and that’s it. I comes with a nice sheath there. It is in comparison to size to the open Elle’s. We can just put them on the ends there and you can see this is the biggest knife here.

That’s my knife collection. I wish I wouldn’t have got these if this would have held an edge to be honest with you just because the history also my grandpa’s knife somewhere. It’s a foldable knife like a Swiss Army knife, if I find it out I’ll do another article, but if anybody out there knows information on this type, if this was mass-produced or knows anything about the type of knife it is. I love.

Let me know in the comments below some information or put put send this article to someone specific and we can get in touch just because I really like the knife and I’d like to learn more about it. And potentially I’d like to keep this. For a long time, in the meantime, I’m most likely going to keep the seven I find that easier in the pocket, and I really like the carbon blade, there’s nothing wrong with the stainless steel blade.

It’s just that it requires obviously a bit more work here to sharpen it. I really like the wood, and I wanted to check out a number eight number eight. By the way, going back is probably the most popular size that’s been ever sold by opinel. It was considered just the perfect size for people’s hands. Number eight or number seven would be for smaller hands, but for a lot of this lightweight EDC carry in your pocket with less things.

This is really nice. I do agree, though this feels a little bit more comfortable in the hand. If you got any questions, any comments please leave them below and if you’re new to my blog feel free to subscribe, like the article give it a thumbs up, you


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background. 

 

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How to SAVE POTS and DISCOUNT MUGS!

So a second in pottery is when you have a piece that comes out. That’s not perfect, but you still want to sell it and you can sell it for discounted great so before we are able to sell all these pots. So all these mugs came out of the kiln the other day right and they all dripped. They all dripped. All over the place – and it’s just the price you pay sometimes when you are experimenting and you’re you want to like get sweet drip, glazes going, but unfortunately I don’t feel like I can sell these pots for the normal price that I would sell them for.

But I can grind them down and get them pretty close to perfect, like you can see. For example, this pot had a glaze that drip totally off the pot, and then I took some of the grinding tools and went after it and it’s better, but it’s still not perfect. So I’m going to show you guys kind of three different tools and ways that I can do this all right. The first way is with these grinding pads from Diamond core tools.

So basically you get these grinding pads. You throw them on a bat. You put them on the wheel and then use water, and then you can flatten the bottom, so this works really well for that. The only problem is it’s not great at getting a lot of glaze off like this, and it also doesn’t work well if you have handles because you can’t like get the pot low enough second way, I’m going to I’m going to go, get a two I’ll, be Right back, the second way – and this one is really new for me – is to use like a dremel tool with a diamond bit.

So these bits are from also from Diamond core tools and I have ones coarse grind ones, fine, so basically you just turn this on and then you start grinding around the edge, and this is better for like more fine-tuned. Adjustments like the grinding pad is create flattening the bottoms and getting like a little pieces off the bottom. But if you want to make really fine adjustments or just really like more meticulous changes, then the journal tool is definitely way to go.

The last tool you can use, which is what I used forever – is this bench like a bench grinder like this. So basically, this is a wheel that spins and then you can take the pieces and just kind of as it’s spinning you can be like, and I use this for ever in my old studio and there’s some safety hazards with this, like basically when you’re grinding you’re. Just kicking up like a bunch of silica dust and like gravel, which is not good for your lungs, so there are definitely some safety precautions that you want to take.

When doing this should put some safety goggles on, you should have a mask, might be tough to find a mask these days like this, but um glaze can also be very sharp. So if you have gloves, we should be good ball. Let’s do it. This is going to take a little bit of work, but I think it’ll be worth it so normally once when I’m selling mugs for anywhere between, like fifty and seventy dollars, these mugs will probably be on the Etsy restock for like around half that.

So so, if you want to check them out, I’d very much appreciate it, the first one that we’re going to do since it’s not this one didn’t drip that bad. It just kind of drip trait well there. So we’re going to use this grinding pad to just flatten the bottom and then to just kind of smooth out that edge a little bit. So you just get that diamond core thing wet, so see that, after about 10 seconds, we’ve already gotten it pretty close to smooth and using a combination of all these tools and methods is one way you can really like get it to be.

As close as you want it to be, like I already even took a little bit almost too much off so there’s that so the mug is totally perfect, that the bottom is nice and flat and smooth. But I still I’m going to sell these for discounted prices. So boom, okay, so as much as you can, if you can grind outside that, helps a lot, you don’t want all that stuff like flying all over your studio or inside. It’s actually kind of nice out here right now, so I’m going to put my mask on there.

We go so not perfect, but still a very functional cup, but you guys think do you buy this? So honestly, can you understand me when I talk like this? So, honestly, having an array of tools like for a while this bench, grinder was the only thing I had and that’s how I pretty much ground down everything. But now having the diamond bits and the diamond pads, I think, having a combination like I’m, going to use this article to kind of test out what I think, but right now.

I think that the bench grinder probably gets it down the quickest and then the dremel tool is definitely more for like refining and then the pad is great for flattening, making sure it’s flat and then also some refinements as well. So they all are good. They all work I’d say I’m just going to use combination of them for all this and then we’re going to get him looking as fine as possible be upside down.

If I let it begin so sweetie, you know, that’s too sure, so that’s that waste another minute. All right: well, it turns out an hour straight of dremel tool will run the battery out so battery’s dead on the ground tool, but we got most everything done once we’re done with that, we’re going to start just taking pictures of stuff so that you guys can See what’s going to be for sale, we’ll be done all right friends, so we got them all ground down.

We got them all photographed and yeah, so these are all going up for sale. If you want to get a discounted pot, I’ve never done discounted pots online. Before and they these are some sweet ones, so got some special ones and basically they’ll just be discounted, probably around half the normal price. Some of them are still pretty perfect, like the bottoms of these, like they’re, not bad at all, so they’ll just be discounted based on you know what kind of pot it is how bad the bottom is, but, like some of these you know I’ve never had any Of this glaze for sale – and it is awesome, but unfortunately it was really hard on the bottoms so well.

I wanted to thank you guys for stopping along reading this article. If you’ve been here since the beginning of Johnny Potter, you know that I used to get on my bike and ride my bike. While I was talking all the time because my studio used to be at the coffee shop right, so I would get on my bike. Ride to the coffee shop, I’d like to talk to the camera. While I was riding my bike there – and I have really done that in a while – mostly because it’s been winter, but now the weather is amazing, it’s summer or it’s going to be summer in Minnesota.

So now we’re going to be riding the bike. That is it for this article. Thank you guys so much for reading. I love you all. If you haven’t already hit subscribe, like share comment, all the things we’ll see you guys in the next article. It’s amazing what a little sunshine does little outdoor time does for your your mental state. Alright, if you can’t get outside today and make some pots, those are separate things you don’t have to go outside and make pots.

I’m saying you know, go outside and then make pots nevermind see you guys in the next article believe it or not. There was actually snow on the ground this morning. I wish I had a article of it, but I swear I swear to you. There was snow on the ground this morning now it’s like 50 degrees and super nice. Okay. I went down the hill now all right, my skin and if I didn’t make it so big sweetie, you know life’s too short.

So, let’s not waste another minute.


What are you eating? Check out the video below to find out about a healthy snack.

 

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Frist Impressions: Opinel Knives and an 80’s Boy Scout Knife

This is the open, L, carbon steel and it’s the number seven it’s made of beechwood and, of course, like I mentioned, the blade is carbon steel. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to do a carbon steel blade or if I wanted to do a stainless steel, and I opted to get both this one. I got locally because it was available and this is the number seven and then I also recently got it still in the box, but I thought I’d show that as well.

I got this off of Amazon. This is a number eight and this is done in olive wood, so open that up just a little off camera here and I’ll show you the difference in size and the difference in wood. Here we go so this is the unit move that down and it’s done in a stainless steel blade and it’s done in olive wood, and this would be the number eight which is always labeled there on the rim. Now, on this little locking mechanism, it’s really interesting knife.

So if they didn’t have this locking mechanism, I’m just going to turn this back to Center this one’s a bit tight, then it would just be up-and-down, and originally the knives from opinel were like that they were just a nice piece of wood. You would open up the blade, I mean notice, I’m doing this with two hands, because this one’s quite stiff, this would be it. The blade would stay open when you’re pushing applying pressure on it.

Obviously it wouldn’t go back down, but there would be a chance that it could end up opening up in your pocket, and so I’m assuming just with that in mind and I believe around world war ii opinel invented this little lock ring. And this allows you to turn the ring right there, as I just did, which will lock the blade from opening and if you have it opened it will then lock the blade from closing and i’ve seen a lot of articles out.

There were people put in. Quite a lot of pressure downwards on this to try to force that – and this does a really good job. This locking locking does really a job. So here we can say the blade of the olive wood. It says in ox which I believe in French is translated to like na trustable in aqsa dibala. I may be wrong, so excuse my friendship. I honk it is a nice nice, somewhat shiny, blade. I’ve heard a few things about the the difference between the blades.

So I’m going to leave this open with the olive wood and I’ll open up the number seven besides a size. That’s why I wasn’t sure which blade to go with and or I wasn’t sure which steel to go with, and then this is the number seven. This one is the number eight. This is a standard model here. This is beech. Wood, like I said this is olive wood. The beech wood comes quite standard with the base models, and these are not.

These are quite reasonable. This one particular one, I believe, is about twelve dollars and maybe less on some stores cost me about twelve dollars plus tax. This one was closer to twenty, because the carbon steel requires a little bit more maintenance. Some people aren’t really fancy to it. The stainless steel doesn’t require it won’t rust, whereas the carbon steel could potentially rust. So there are a lot of youtubers that will put some form of acid on the blade to force a patina, and if you don’t do that as long as you like make sure that it’s not in a moist setting it’s it’s staying dry, then over time.

It will develop its own patina, which can be really nice. The other really nice thing about carbon steel and I readed another YouTube article and if I remember the name I’ll put it up in a little box at the top here. But they were talking about how they like their the the flat edge at the back. And I’m going to close the knife, so I can show you with the knife, closed and locked, there’s this flat edge here and you could use that.

Let me just make sure it’s in focus. You could use that against a striking pad of some sorts, a flint per se, to start a fire where it’s a stainless steel. You wouldn’t be able to do that, so that can be really nice if you were taking this out camping. I also, if I’m honest with you for EDC I’ve had these for about a week now, both of them I’ve carried the carbon. I got this one first, so this one less than a week, but but for the most part a week for both I’ve carried this one for a few days in my pocket and I’ve carried the number eight, this number seven fits perfectly in my pocket.

It disappears. I don’t notice it. I’ve used it to go down and open up some parcels that have arrived. I’ve taken it with me to open up other forms. I’ve had to cut some other things randomly, and this has been great. There have no problems with it. Like I said, it’s super lightweight disappears in the pocket now the number 8, though I think the number 8 fits my hand a little bit better. It’s just it’s almost the perfect size for the hand and the blade length is really nice with it.

It’s because they obviously take it and scale it up. The wood is quite the circumference of the wood is quite a lot bigger, and this means that there’s a bulge in the pocket. So I don’t. I don’t like this much as much in my pocket as I do like the the number 7, so you can see in my pocket. I don’t have these technically together in my pocket. I may have it with my lip job. There’s some burpees! That’s about half the size, so comparing it with the number 8, then I could take the number 8 out now I’ll.

Take this one out place it. You can see that it is much taller right, but it’s more the circumference! I don’t know if I can put these on top of the circumference of the knife is bigger. Now between the Steel’s, I’m really fancying the carbon steel. I like things a patina. I like the fact that it has a few other purposes that you could use it for, especially for EDC and for camping reasons, and I think I like the fact that the number 7 is a little easier to carrier carry.

I wish that the carbon steel was offered with different woods. That’s my wish. I really like this olive wood. I, like the walnut out there, there’s lots of different wood options. You can choose, but carbon steel is only offered from my understanding right now on opinel. It’s only offered on the beech wood and it’s a standard blade, which means it is the base model and then, of course, these things can go up as high as like few hundred dollars, depending on that not necessarily the type of stainless steel, but whether it’s polished And the type of wood you can get wood all the way from Africa, olive wood from the Mediterranean.

You can get oak dark oak lots of things. You can even get a blade. That’s black, like a black stainless steel blade. So those are those knives. My first impression is I like them. I think these things are great, like I said, really lightweight both of them. Obviously, the heavier models will go up. The wood mate depending up you won’t go with a stainless steel. Knee just ride, decide to change the wood.

The wood may be a little denser than other woods, but both of these woods are quite light. They fit really nice in the hands. I like them, locking mechanism when it’s locked the blades not going to go anywhere. I will say that the carbon steel came out of the box with a super-sharp and it’s it’s still ridiculously sharp and the seal is still not so much, and I’ve heard other viewers talk about that as well.

Like I said, these are very reasonably priced. Any of these would be fine. I’m heard lots of viewers that have had a stainless steel for years and then just decided hobby wise to go to carbon. I think I’m most likely going to stick with this more as an EDC. I may or might not keep this or may or just put in my camping kit or may even give it to a friend as a gift, because they’re quite reasonable.

If you have any questions about open all knives, I’m going to put some links for both of these in the descriptions below both of those links are where I purchased the knives. So you can follow those I’ll put something up, put a link for the actual website of opinel, so you can look through there. The knife I’d like to get is the gardener’s knife, which has a nice rounding handle on it, but the one thing that I would like to see it again as I’d like to see if it if it eventually came with a carbon blade from so I’m going To show you in the package that first came with this says Boy Scouts of Canada, and it looks like this is like a bench and leather, because it’s slowly fading.

I’ve used it for these last couple years. Camping and it’s been great, but it was a little whiter prior to me using it and if I take it out of its sheath and just move that to the side. This is the knife here, so it came with this original string there. It says Boy Scouts of Canada that it that is, and it ends up focusing. It’s got some brass, I believe, on the sides here, some brass rivets looks like it’s a stainless steel.

You can see some patina on the knife and a nice hole. It is quite heavy, especially after carrying the opinel knives. As far as the knife goes, we’ve got a knife section. This is going to be a longer knife than the open, L and I’ll try to lower that down. I don’t know much about knives to talk about like the belly and all that or the blade or the or where the edges is I’m just I’m new to all of this thumb things I was just doing some research to get a knife that would be to Replace this for weight reasons, but also to replace this, because it’s not holding an edge very well.

You can see it’s stainless steel made in China, so I don’t know if that’s talking about the quality of this, like I said it’s a boyscout blade, it does lock. The locking mechanism is down here. You can push on the locking mechanism and then it folds back in, and it also has a saw so I’ll – show you that so I was a little stiffer to get out. There’s your saw bottle opener and a flathead screwdriver.

In the end I have used the saw when I was boy scouting to do a couple fires and to chop down some specific kind of wood and again it locks as well. So you push would have to push the lock and then you could pull the back in and that’s it. I comes with a nice sheath there. It is in comparison to size to the open Elle’s. We can just put them on the ends there and you can see this is the biggest knife here.

That’s my knife collection. I wish I wouldn’t have got these if this would have held an edge to be honest with you just because the history also my grandpa’s knife somewhere. It’s a foldable knife like a Swiss Army knife, if I find it out I’ll do another article, but if anybody out there knows information on this type, if this was mass-produced or knows anything about the type of knife it is. I love.

Let me know in the comments below some information or put put send this article to someone specific and we can get in touch just because I really like the knife and I’d like to learn more about it. And potentially I’d like to keep this. For a long time, in the meantime, I’m most likely going to keep the seven I find that easier in the pocket, and I really like the carbon blade, there’s nothing wrong with the stainless steel blade.

It’s just that it requires obviously a bit more work here to sharpen it. I really like the wood, and I wanted to check out a number eight number eight. By the way, going back is probably the most popular size that’s been ever sold by opinel. It was considered just the perfect size for people’s hands. Number eight or number seven would be for smaller hands, but for a lot of this lightweight EDC carry in your pocket with less things.

This is really nice. I do agree, though this feels a little bit more comfortable in the hand. If you got any questions, any comments please leave them below and if you’re new to my blog feel free to subscribe, like the article give it a thumbs up, you


Knives and daggers are awesome! Plain and simple, right? Let me say, I enjoy my dagger collection with a little music playing in the background.